Closed Loop or no ?

[Alexxn]

So I picked up my new tank setup from a RC member and I have some questions....it's been drilled for a closed loop setup but I'm not sure to go with that or not...I'm hesitant because of the extra heat from more powerheads. Can I close the extra holes somehow or how would I even plumb this for closed loop ? I know the larger bulkhead is the overflow and the other top one is the return. What about the others ? Opinions ??

Thanks !!

 

[loismustdie]

The larger hole top center would be your feed for a pump and the 2 smaller ones lower down would be your return. Get yourself an ehiem pump. The tank is set up for it, you might as well use the closed loop. Looks better than powerheads.
I would come out of each bulkhead with a 90* elbow followed by a valve which would be placed just below the top of the stand so you can access them while the tank is in operation. Gate valves are best, but ball valves are fine.
Union off the pump so you can take it off line to clean it.

 

[Alexxn]

The larger hole top center would be your feed for a pump and the 2 smaller ones lower down would be your return. Get yourself an ehiem pump. The tank is set up for it, you might as well use the closed loop. Looks better than powerheads.
I would come out of each bulkhead with a 90* elbow followed by a valve which would be placed just below the top of the stand so you can access them while the tank is in operation. Gate valves are best, but ball valves are fine.
Union off the pump so you can take it off line to clean it.

You dont think I would end up with heat problems by adding another powerhead to the mix ? This is a 58 gal, which Eheim pump would you recommend ? So the pump would be completely external then, not submerged ? (I know NOTHING about any of this)

Thanks !!

 

[fritz]

I would (and did) use an eheim 1262
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...OD&Product_Code=EHEIM1262&Category_Code=Eheim

It also makes a great return pump. These can be used internal or external and unlike mag pumps they add VERY little heat to the water.

 

[fritz]

Another side note I would seriously reconsider your choice in sump. A 15 (or 20 high) gallon is a much more appropriate choice as it will allow you to also keep a 5.5 gallon tank as an ATO reservoir. A larger sump in no way compensates for lack of ATO, in fact the larger your sump the greater your need for an Auto Top Off.

Another option still would be to get a sump that is the full size allowable in your stand with a section for RO/DI water. This will allow you to have a bigger sump than you currently do AND have an ATO reservoir!

 

[Alexxn]

Another side note I would seriously reconsider your choice in sump. A 15 (or 20 high) gallon is a much more appropriate choice as it will allow you to also keep a 5.5 gallon tank as an ATO reservoir. A larger sump in no way compensates for lack of ATO, in fact the larger your sump the greater your need for an Auto Top Off.

Another option still would be to get a sump that is the full size allowable in your stand with a section for RO/DI water. This will allow you to have a bigger sump than you currently do AND have an ATO reservoir!

That is a 20 gal sump...I picked everything up for a song all new and I'd rather not spend any more $ for the time being if at all possible if I can make this equipment work ok...is the ATO the only issue here ? I can live with that for now and always upgrade the sump at a later time once I can throw some more $ at this project...

 

[fritz]

15 gallon or 20 high = $24.99
5.5 gallon tank = 8.99
Auto top off = $20

Total = $58.57 (WITH TAX)

Having your salinity constant = priceless

Honestly I wouldn't skimp here. Often people spend money on the things that aren't important and skimp where they shouldn't. The above $59 will be the best money you ever spend on your reef with the possible exception of a phosban reactor.

 

[Alexxn]

15 gallon or 20 high = $24.99
5.5 gallon tank = 8.99
Auto top off = $20

Total = $58.57 (WITH TAX)

Having your salinity constant = priceless

Honestly I wouldn't skimp here. Often people spend money on the things that aren't important and skimp where they shouldn't. The above $59 will be the best money you ever spend on your reef with the possible exception of a phosban reactor.

Hmm good points....so if I get either of the new tanks do I simply take out the baffles and re silicone everything back in the same way / place that I took them out of ?

 

[Alexxn]

Here's a better pic of the Sump...

 

[digitalreefer]

If you're not afraid of a little DIY you can do the ATO for less than $10. I just got a float switch for $6 and used parts I had around the house to wire it to an outlet. Now I can plug in whatever powerhead I want and let it top off as necessary. I'll try to post some pics of my ATO if you want to give it a shot.

 

[fritz]

Yup, just get some straight razors from a drug store and cut away! Once you've cut mostly through just pull the glass back and forth until it comes loose. Then use the razors to clean the glass up of any stray silicone and silicone them into the new tank.

 

[Alexxn]

Yup, just get some straight razors from a drug store and cut away! Once you've cut mostly through just pull the glass back and forth until it comes loose. Then use the razors to clean the glass up of any stray silicone and silicone them into the new tank.

Nice, thanx for the info ! I'm definitely gonna do it....does the layout of the sump I have look good to you or would you make any changes ?

 

[Manny]

Alex,
as for your title question... I agree with the loismust

 

[Alexxn]

Alex,
as for your title question... I agree with the loismust

thanx !! :thrash:

 

[fritz]

I foresee microbubbles although I must admit having the water exit onto a sloped piece of glass as a means of allowing air to exit is rather ingenious. However, the volume of water and force with which it will be coming down will mean that it has very little contact time with that pane of glass before it's whisked into the sump. I would expect the drain side to be very turbulent and to create some microbubbles. The return side only has 1 "over" baffle which will do very little in terms of protecting your return pump from pushing these microbubbles back up into your main tank.

A good solution here is either;

1. A bubble tower on the drain side.
2. Filter sock on the drain.
3. "Over, under, over" baffles before your return pump.

What type of protein skimmer are you going to be using for this endeavor? That will impact which layout would be best.

 

[loismustdie]

When I build sumps, the first thing I consider is the skimmer being used. This way you can set it to maximize skimmer efficiency.
In theory, the angled glass is nice, but you take too much room and it is ineffective. Do the under over as Fred said.
A filter sock on the drain is good too.

 

[Alexxn]

I got a brand new Euroreef RS 80 with this deal....the sump was aparently built by this persons LFS....like I said I have NO experience with sump setups so any input would be greatly appreciated..

 

[Craig]

off topic

change that outlet to a gfci to be safe

 

[Alexxn]

off topic

change that outlet to a gfci to be safe

LOL...that's the house from the kid I picked this up from....

 

[fritz]

I think he's using the "Shock Buster" GFCI extension cord. Home Depot sells them, it's an extension cord with a GFI built in.