Ideas for my 20 Long

[TheRev]

Upon hearing that I was considering starting an aquarium, a member of my congregation gave me their old 20 Long used for freshwater. I'm a long way from getting everything for the setup, but here's my initial thougts on getting started. Good? Bad? Ugly?


Filter: Emperor 280

Skimmer: Coralife SuperSkimmer for up to 65g or CPR BakPak

Lighting: Curent USA Orbit PC 2x65 with moonlights

DSB

Live Rock: Possibly Kaelini Tonga, way open to suggestions

Corals: Primarily softs, starting with mushrooms, maybe some pulsating Xenia, and the ever present zoos

Fish: ? for the time being probably none or a sand-sifter of some variety. Thinking sand-sifting star. Ultimately, noce I get my water parameters in order and some experience under my belt an anenome and clown, probably maroon

Looking forward to hearing what the experts think.

Peace

Kevin

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Kevin (TheRev),
Welcome to RDO.

Before you get started, check with the previous owner of the tank to make sure that she hadn't medicated the tank when it was fw. Meds can leave residuals that could possibly harm future inhabitants.

http://www.reefs.org/library/newbieguide.htm Is a very good place to start.

http://www.reefs.org/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=80 Is the build off forum, where no tank is larger than 20g. It's a read only, but you'll gain tons of information on tank inhabitants, filtration, lighting and etc. You'll read about the good, the bad and the ugly there.

Having given you a starting place, I would suggest that you get a better skimmer than either one of those you listed. I've never used the coralife but I do have the bakpak. You won't really be happy with that one, go with something like the remora pro.

I'd also suggest going with a better light set up also. If your planning for an anenome down the line, you'll need metal halides to really keep it happy. You'll also love the shimmer lines that the halides give. Besides once you get into the corals, you'll want to go to bigger and better (hard corals like lps, sps and clams) and the mh will let you go there.

Small tanks are harder to keep in line than larger volume tanks, you might consider getting a hang on overflow and adding a sump for more water volume. It is a very good investment. Another thing to keep in mind; a ro/di unit and refractometer for making your salt water and top off water. Both of those are life savers for the advanced hobbiests as well as the new. But for some reason, they are often over looked when people get started into this very addictive hobby. And last but not least, a good quality test kit.

Please be sure to research all livestock purchases before buying, you'll really be happy you did. Also take your time and be very patient. Nothing good happens fast in this hobby. Good luck and keep us posted on your tank!

 

[TheRev]

Ah, I forgot to add that I have also inherited what sounds like a 5 stage RO/DI device. I pick it up this afternoon. I'll know more about the make and model later. I about possibly building a sump into this system. Seemed a bit of overkill for a 20.

As far as lighting, help me here. I was trying to avoid halides due to heat on such a small amount of water. It was my thought that with only 12" of depth to penetrate, 130w of pc lighting would keep most things happy. In fact, from what I've read, I had real questions about whether or not that amount of light would cause the mushrooms to retreat. I agree the shimmer lines are gorgeous, but is even a 150w DE still too much for this tank? If not, would a dual standard flourescent actinic combined with the 150w DE be an appropriate choice?

Thanks

Kevin

 

[Anonymous]

I always feel that "more is better", but that's just my normal take.

I've had both a 20L and a 29g both with dual 65w pc lighting. One fixture was the pre-orbit model same as you have listed, the other was a coralife. Both tanks ran hotter than my present 29 with 2x 65w pc and 250w de mh and my little 10g w/150w de mh and 2x18w pc in the build off.

130w pc didn't do much for my bta's health or for anyone else that I know locally that has/had them. We've all been swithching over.

The sump isn't overkill, it's just a good way of upping water volume, which helps keep water params stable. It's also a way of keeping the tank "cleaner" looking. You get to hide the skimmer, heater and anything else you might add for "maint.", such as auto top off, auto doser, cal reacters and the like. You won't be sorry for adding it to the system.

 

[TheRev]

First and foremost, thanks knowse. I am currently moving from one high-knowledge/research hobby to another. Hearing other people's experiences and finding out what works and what doesn't is a big part of any such hobby. I don't intend to begin stocking this tank until I can afford all the components that I want, save livestock. Patience and research is what I am currently and will continue to invest in the meantime.

I have heard there is a point where too much light can fry some soft corals. I enjoy the diversity and coloration of mushrooms, and know that they are hardy enough to endure me, but understand from current research that too much light will stunt growth, etc, etc. The thought of adding a clam to this system much later in the ballgame is also pleasing though. Both lfs owners seemed to think that PC would be sufficient for an anenome. but I'll take experience with such anyday. One of said lfs owners, upon hearing my plans and my tank size, suggested that I go with a saddleback anenome. Something about a grand showpiece to take the tank over the top. I'm way new to this game, but recognized immediately that any amount of live rock, soft coral, and other goodies was going to WAY crowd that poor animal in a 30"x12" environment. So, lfs owners may be nice people, may know a lot, but also have product to move.

Reading your nano diary, the light setup you have looks like it would work on a 20L, but would need retrofitted to be able to sit properly on the tank. Ideas? Too little light?

Likewise, how much does halide lighting add to your light bill? Are we talking $10 or $20 a month or more?

Regarding sump size. Another 20L tank would only run me around $20 locally. Plexiglass prices I am unsure of. It would be reasonably easy to build one from what I have seen here and on reefcentral. The pump on the skimmer would be the return, from what I gather. What filters would I be looking at? Budget is a concern here, as it is with most hobbyists. I don't want to spend money twice. For that reason, if I do upgrade, my planned upgrade a couple of years down the line is a 37g. I figured keeping the 30" profile would allow me to keep the lights, etc.

Any additional comments will be welcomed.

Peace

Kevin

 

[ChrisRD]

Hi Kevin and :welcome:

I think your starting setup sounded pretty good for the intended corals, but personally I would not bother with the hang-on filter.

IME what you've heard about the lighting is correct - in a shallow tank, MH can often be too much for some low light corals. In a shallow tank w/sandbed and the types of corals you're mentioning, the PCs will be sufficient lighting. IMO they will not, however, be very useful for a future 37 gallon (too deep). If you go with something like the 150 watt DE setup for upgradeability, you can mount it higher over the shallow tank to help reduce irradiance levels.

The Coralife skimmer has been getting good feedback and I certainly would not be afraid to try one on a 20 gallon softie tank. Again, if you're sure you're going bigger in a few years, you might want to get a larger model now to avoid a repurchase later.

IMO anemones/clams are better left to larger tanks, stronger lighting and experienced reef keepers.

JMO & HTH

 

[Anonymous]

I will give you a vote to keep your plan with the lighting. I have that Orbit light over my 54 gallon corner Bowfront, and I have a rock anenome who is doing great. In fact, its doing better than it was when I had a metal halide on there. Course I don't think its a very high intensity requiring anenome.

I wouldn't have a clam under these lights, but for a lot of softies, mushrooms and others you should be fine.

You can set the tank up without a sump and add one down the line later also if you want, in fact if you plan it all out right when you upgrade to a 37 you can use the 20 as a sump Reduce Reuse Recycle eh?

 

[TheRev]

Had a great time on #reefs last night and got some good feedback on sumps, etc. Overflow box suggestions? Most of the folks last night were strong Berlin Method folks. Anyone got any additional filtration opinions?

How hard is a DIY canopy? If it's relatively easy, and the retrofits are easy to install, I could see myself putting in 130 or more watts of PC+moonlighting and leaving space for the eventual halide upgrade.

Likewise, someone mentioned going with a lower wattage halide. Any opinions on a 70w mh added to the PC setup described?

Thanks again everyone!

Peace

Kevin