How MUCH Heat?

[TheRev]

Just got gifted a 55 gallon tank which has me reconsidering what I am doing. How much heat do a pair of 175w MH lights add to the water? I cannot afford a chiller, nor can I afford to find out too late that these lights jump my water temp into the mid to high 80's.

Likewise, if I don't want SPS or clams, and I eventually move to a BTA, will 260w of PC lighting work on this tank?

Peace

Kevin

 

[Anonymous]

Where do you live? Do you run an air conditioner?

Usually blowing air across the water surface with a couple of fans will alleviate problems caused by heat but the air in the room needs to be fairly dry.

 

[SnowManSnow]

Sometimes raising the lights only sightly will aid in the amount of heat. Also, as Guy said, make sure you have some sort of airflow...particularly if you have the lights in a canopy situation.

Remember evap is the main way to cool your tank. You can always mount a small desk fan to the wall behind your tank, if your canopy is open back, and blow it accross the water surface.

B.

 

[TheRev]

I don't have a canopy. My intent was to hang the lighting from the ceiling. More info about the planned tank.

1. 36" dual 175w MH + 2x96w PC PFO/IceCap Hood suspended from ceiling up to 12" above waterline, ballasts housed away from aquarium.

2. 4" DSB

3. Housed in basement. Higher humidity, but lower overall temp than rest of the house. Summertime temps = low to mid 70's. Winter temps= mid to low 60's

4. There is air-conditioning which keeps summer temps lower and the winter time heating all rises up to the upper two floors.

I am disinclined to use the fans room fans for aestheitics, but am not resolved to any course of action. More ideas or suggestions?

Peace

Kevin

 

[Anonymous]

I really don't forsee any problems with heat. What temperature were you going to keep the tank at?

 

[TheRev]

I was considering a higher temp, due to the lighting. I was considering between 79-80. Some of that will depend on how quickly I get bitten by the SPS bug, which I am told will strike as soon as I get my sea legs under me and satisfied with water parameters etc.

Would 4x96 PC or 4x 65PC or 2x110VHO+2x96PC do as well for what I have planned? Would the heat be similar, better. or worse?

Thanks to everyone for responding, please keep the ideas coming. I'm a ways off from making this thing come to life, but I'd like to know how to best spend the money I'm saving.

Peace

Kevin

 

[Anonymous]

If you get hit with the SPS bug you will be glad you have the MH. There are quite a few species that do OK under flourescent lighting but you have to be really picky. You're a lot better off with the MH all around IMO.

Heating from lighting comes mostly from the actual light that penetrates the water and most aquarium lighting is fairly efficient so the bottom line is that 400 watts of light will pretty much heat up the water equally regardless of what type of lighting.

Temperature for tropical animals is still a fairly debated item.

I keep my main system at 82-83F and the Nano tank I'm doing for the nano contest I keep around 85F - 86F. My suggestion is not to keep tropical reef animals below 80F but you'll probably want to do some research to see what is going to work best for you and the animals you decide to keep.

 

[TheRev]

Ok, so this is like the best news I have had in awhile. I wondered about all the tanks being in the mid 70's for water temp. My chief concern was a consistent temp north of 80 degrees nuking my tank. Unless these lights are going to keep my tank north of 85 degrees, then I think I'll be all right. I guess I really need to see how much the light is going to heat the tank up.

My research has been more related to tanks than to species. Though the two books I have read, along with several articles online, suggest setting a temp in the mid to high 70's.

Other opinions?

Next question: Is the PC Actinic going to be sufficient, or should I look to VHO instead? Is there a true PC Actinic now?

Peace

Kevin

 

[Anonymous]

Next question: Is the PC Actinic going to be sufficient, or should I look to VHO instead? Is there a true PC Actinic now?

PC Actinic is fine, many prefer it over VHO because VHO can look purple/pink instead of Blue. There are PC bulbs now that use phosphors to generate blue light instead of the older version that used blue filters or blue glass. Avoid anything that says Blue bulb or 7100K actinic. It also wouldn't hurt to ask here about a specific bulb once you find a bulb you are considering. That's true of the MH bulb also.

I prefer the VHO Actinic look myself (URI SuperActinic) but the PCs are slightly more intense.

HTH

One more observation I've had on coral - I haven't kept much SPS, most LPS and softies but in my experience a stable temp seems to do best. Going from 75F at night to 85F in the day seems to be a lot more stressful than just staying at 85F all the time. Just an observation.

 

[TheRev]

Once again Guy, you have reinforced a point I keep hearing. Stability means more than most things. The thing I hadn't considered is the cool down that will inevitably take place during the non-photo period. Is the common wisdom to use a single heater that can cover the need of the entire tank size, or would two smaller watt heaters cover the need?

Peace

Kevin

 

[Anonymous]

Once again Guy, you have reinforced a point I keep hearing. Stability means more than most things. The thing I hadn't considered is the cool down that will inevitably take place during the non-photo period. Is the common wisdom to use a single heater that can cover the need of the entire tank size, or would two smaller watt heaters cover the need?

Peace

Kevin

I'm in the multiple heaters camp.

Cons:

Costs more

Pros:

1 - Heaters occationally fail.

2 - Heaters either fail stuck on or stuck off.

2a - If they fail stuck on a big heater can cook the tank.
2b - If they fail stuck off a single heater setup could allow the tank to get cold.