Algae issue in new tank...

[kronikwisdom]

Just a quick question about algae…

Tank:
29 Gal (30L x 12 1/2W x 20 H)
Eclipse 3 Filtration w/ phosphate filter pad
Aquac Remora protein skimmer w/ Maxi-jet 1200
2 x 65w Smartpaq 50/50 – 10,000k/460nm (Not vho or pc)
30 lbs Fiji live rock
40 lbs Live Aragonite reef sand
20 blue hermit crabs
5 turbo snails


The tank has been running for about 3 weeks now. I’ve begun to see red algae all over the live rock and live aragonite sand. What the best way to keep the aragonite sand clean from the algae? The hermits and snails are not cleaning much of it and it seem to be taking over…. HELP!!!

 

[Anonymous]

The red algae is normal in a cycling tank, it just has to run its course. What are your water values? I'd be concerned about the inverts dying if your tank isn't cycled yet and gets an ammonia spike.

 

[kronikwisdom]

The levels in my tank are fine:
8.2ph, sg 1.023, amonia .25, nitrite 0, nitrate 0, phosphate 0, alk normal..

I do have a clown fish that i forgot to add in the list above..

 

[Anonymous]

Not to come off strong, but the levels in you tank are NOT fine Kronik the ammonia level is waaaaaay high, pretty much toxic. The fact you have high ammonia and no nitrites/nitrates means your tank is early on in the cycling process. The algae bloom is the least of your worries, I'd be concerned about the fish and inverts dying off.

Here's a snippet from a great article available here on the forum:
http://www.reefs.org/library/newbieguide.htm

H. Curing or Cycling

What is a cycle? Do I have to force a cycle?

http://reefs.org/ops/wade/ammoniacycle.jpg

A cycle is a process whereby bacteria are shifting their populations in both total numbers and in population types to deal with new food sources. When a tank is new and live rock has just been added, the die-off from the rock breaks down and releases ammonia. That ammonia is taken up by one type of bacteria and given off as nitrite. The nitrite goes through the same process and then is released as nitrate. Those processes happen in the presence of oxygen. Deep in the sand and rock, another type of bacteria exist in low oxygen areas that convert the nitrate to nitrogen. Nitrogen is completely non-toxic and can leave the system as a gas. That is the way in which our tanks cycle. If you start a tank with cured live rock (if truly cured and lacks large clumps of plant or sponge or the like material), then no cycle may be witnessed. If livestock is added slowly, the bacterial populations increase on demand without stressing the system.

Ammonia and nitrite are highly toxic compound generated from decaying matter and from fish waste. If a tank has any detectable ammonia or nitrite, you should not have any living animals present. Ammonia is more toxic in saltwater than in freshwater due to the higher pH of saltwater.

Our recommendation in this day and age is to NOT use livestock of any form to induce a cycle in a tank. Use live rock, cured or uncured, it matters not. Do NOT use dead animals either, it's the same reason. They are both methods from the past that have no place in today's reefing world. Forcing a cycle is not a real benefit if you stock slowly and properly and monitor a young reef tank. Many even believe that no swimming animals should be added until after a few months have passed. More on that later. The reason that you need no more than live rock is twofold: first, the rock already has a full complement of the bacteria you will need to get the tank going and secondly, there is enough 'matter' on the rock to provide 'food' for the bacteria that are the reason your tank is cycling.

 

[kronikwisdom]

WAIT.. i was reading from the wront date for that last level reading.. this is what i have for 7/6

ph 8.3, alk normal, nitrite .025, nitrate 1.5, ammonia .25, sg 1.024, phos .75

 

[Anonymous]

WAIT.. i was reading from the wront date for that last level reading.. this is what i have for 7/6

ph 8.3, alk normal, nitrite .025, nitrate 1.5, ammonia .25, sg 1.024, phos .75

Any detectable ammonia or nitrite is a bad thing, both those substances are quite toxic, and the nitrate is spiking as well. Read the article I posted, and do a search here on cycling as there are many threads on it, and you'll see what I mean.

 

[trido]

kronikwisdom... :welcome:


Lawdawg is very correct regarding your cycle. If you can take you inverts back to the Local Fish Store you bought them and ask them to hold them that would be best. With levels you posted you will will likely lose them. Even if they do survive they will likely have significantly shortened life spans. Also, If the LFS you bought them at has been giving you guidance since day one, I and others, will highly recommend finding another store to buy from. One bit of advice that will go a long way in this hobby for you.....READ, READ, RESEARCH and then READ some more. Good luck.

 

[kronikwisdom]

I have gone back to the lfs i bought the fish and cleaner guys from and they told me to F off.. so i'm looking for another store.. in the mean time i have a friend with room to house my stuff until my tank can levels can stabilize.. thanks again for the advice and i have been reading a much as i can find on the subject...

 

[Anonymous]

You are very very welcome kronik! It's what this place is all about...the sharing of information.

 

[Anonymous]

I have gone back to the lfs i bought the fish and cleaner guys from and they told me to F off.. so i'm looking for another store.. in the mean time i have a friend with room to house my stuff until my tank can levels can stabilize.. thanks again for the advice and i have been reading a much as i can find on the subject...

What store? I do not want to do busness there when I start my new tank. If you can not get the stuff to somone who can take care of them set up a bare quarenteen tank with fresh salt water. Do weekly 20% water changes and thay should be OK for the short term.

 

[kronikwisdom]

The store is called Pet Land in arlington, tx - the saltwater guys name is Daniel. And yes i've found someone to hold my fish and as many of the little guys as i can find so we'll see how it works out..

 

[Anonymous]

Keep us updated

 

[SnowManSnow]

dont forget about water changes. as long as you are using good rodi water a 30 percent change would only better your circumstances.

b

 

[Anonymous]

dont forget about water changes. as long as you are using good rodi water a 30 percent change would only better your circumstances.

b

Since he got the livestock out of the tank, IMO, I wouldn't bother to change the water to lower the ammonia levels as that will only lengthen out the cycle.

When I'm cycling a tank I don't any water changes at all, just top off for evaporation and let things "cook".

 

[kronikwisdom]

Yes, i won't be touching the tank much only testing and adding water if needed for at least 2 weeks...

One question about water temperature and power heads. I currently only have one maxi-jet 1200 powering the protein skimmer and have removed the heater. The water temp in my tank stays at 77-78 at night and 79-81 during the day. I need to add more water flow before reintroducing the critters, but I'm adding 2 more submerged power heads will increase the temp. What should I do?!?

 

[Anonymous]

Well, if you play with the outflow from your skimmer and the eclipse, you may be able to get away with one new PH which shouldn't raise the temp in the tank too much. How you arrange your rockwork also makes a difference as far as flow, the best way is to play around with it and see which was works best.

I think the greater issue with the tank temp will be the eclipse hood which could trap heat. Oh, as long as Im on the sujbect, you did remove the biowheel component to that hood, eh? Those don't work very well in the marine environment as they tend to produce nitrates.

Also, why are you running the phospate removal pad? Are you using RO or tap water?

 

[kronikwisdom]

The biowheel side of the filtration is now has only a phosphate pad. I’m running with the pad because I had trace amounts of phosphate a few days ago (under .5 ppm). I’m using distilled water, at least that’s what I used last time (Monday last week). The eclipse hood is going to be cut open on wednesday, I’m adding a Current-USA 30” orbit 2x65 system. There will be a 1” gap between the filtration and the lighting unit that should allow some heat to escape. We’ll see how that plays with the temp when it happens..

 

[Anonymous]

in a tank that small, even a cheapo 6" clip on fan like this one clipped on the tank rim blowing across the water/the hood works well to lower temps.

 

[kronikwisdom]

UPDATE: my tank is still empty and my little clown is in a friend’s tank. One question: I visited him earlier today and he doesn't seem to move much and hangs in one area. I’m sure some of that is due to his new environment and other fish (he’s only got 3 other fish in there: lion, bassel, and tang). In a few weeks, maybe a month, when I reintroduce him to my tank what should I do if he just hangs out in one area of the tank and ignores the rest?!? How can I persuade him to move to other areas?!?

 

[trido]

IN a matter of time your clown will start to feel more comfortable and explore other areas of your tank. Provided it doesn't get attacked doing so. As its territory gets larger it will frequent other areas of the tank.

It is probably too petrified to move in your friends tank. Out of fear of bieng eaten I doubt it will be too full of energy. All tanks have a pecking order and your little guy is on the bottom of the list you posted. I guarantee it. :wink: