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bigperm

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Ok...

I was referred here by my LFS in Tampa.

Here's my deal. I have no clue about this stuff and decided I wanted to get into SW tanks.

So what do I do... i head down to my LFS and say "I'd like to get into SW tanks... where so I start".

After a lot of discussion and questions/answers, they set me up w/ a 24 gallon nano-cub (Aquapod variety).

I found Reef Central and posted this:

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=916389

I hope it's cool to post a link to another reef site.. i just didn't want to repost everything that has happened.

The owner of the LFS told me to use this website as you filter the data a little more carefully and I can trust it more?

In any event, I'm new, I'm dumb and I am trying to make the best of my situation.

:)
 

alvintheclownfish

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wow , i read ure other thread and wow. i really cant belive what i just read lol. its really not funny tho being you have alot of llive animals that could die, i have the 24 aquapod but i got the 150 wat metal halide bulbs, and i waited a very long time b4 i got my clam. well i dont wsanna be an a%s but feeding so much is gna cuz a big tiff, the corals should be fed twice a week, and the clam everyday but they only eat live pyto and a clam that size needs light more than food so its prob slowly dying in there. also water changes tooo much will cause problems being that your bacteria wont have a chance to multipky and your water params are gna vary. Say hello to bio-spira. also goni u bought i belive will die in a year or less, the xenia doesnt need to be fed, u really should done this research first omg, i never read anything like this and cantg belive im responding either. but any way good luck and any questions ill help, and plz KEEP DOING RESEARCH
 

bigperm

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alvintheclownfish":10xnf44k said:
wow , i read ure other thread and wow. i really cant belive what i just read lol. its really not funny tho being you have alot of llive animals that could die, i have the 24 aquapod but i got the 150 wat metal halide bulbs, and i waited a very long time b4 i got my clam. well i dont wsanna be an a%s but feeding so much is gna cuz a big tiff, the corals should be fed twice a week, and the clam everyday but they only eat live pyto and a clam that size needs light more than food so its prob slowly dying in there. also water changes tooo much will cause problems being that your bacteria wont have a chance to multipky and your water params are gna vary. Say hello to bio-spira. also goni u bought i belive will die in a year or less, the xenia doesnt need to be fed, u really should done this research first omg, i never read anything like this and cantg belive im responding either. but any way good luck and any questions ill help, and plz KEEP DOING RESEARCH

yeah, well what can I say... i really didn't know what I was getting into. I let the LFS guide me and they don't seem too concerned.

Who knows... maybe I'll get lucky... probably not though :?
 

dnorton1978

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BIGWORM ER BIGPERM..(FRIDAY, love that movie)

I am still a newbie, but the best avice from one newbie to another is PRACTICE PATIENCE YOUNG GRASSHOPPER. Only bad things happen fast. Here at reefs.org there are a lot of knowledgeable people, and the same can be said about the other site.

Everybody has advice, and although intentions are good, it may not always be right. One more piece of advice I can give is to take it all in from everybody and then make your own decision based on a combination of advice.

I am in Daytona Beach Florida, so we are pretty close. You may want to eventually consider a generator especially since we have a tropical storm on the way.
 
A

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bigperm

:welcome:

Well, you got taken down the primrose path by the LFS, but it's not all that bad. The free Helfrichi alone makes it worth while ;). What is your water testing at now?

First things first, did you buy a hydrometer? I prefer a refractometer...like this one:

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/P ... 004+113761

because they are more reliable than your average swing arm hydrometer. On a nano you need to check the specfic gravity EVERY day as evaporation will drastically change those values very quickly in a small tank, especially since you have had some heat issues.

Secondly, did you get test kits so you can test the water values yourself? You are going to need to check those frequently and really it's not all that difficult. Don't take this the wrong way, but do you understand the way a tank cycles? The water values you really need to be concerned about with right now are ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. If you aren't clear, post up and I'll give ya a quick course.

Third, the advice the LFS gave you about feeding was pure bunk. Too much excess food leads to water quality problems. If you are using frozen food, thaw it first in a little tank water, then use a fine fishnet to strain it out of the water, and rinse it with tank water before you put it in the tank. Why? because the juice that is packed into that food is pure fuel for algae, and I'm quite sure that's where your phospate problems started. Feed only as much as the fish will immediately eat, for now I think 2x daily is fine. A broad rule of thumb is a fish's stomach is the same size as his eyes (although not 100% accurate in all cases you get the idea).
 
A

Anonymous

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Oh, another thing, you can start your own thread in this forum:

http://www.reefs.org/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=23

It's for member's tank specs. You can cut-n-paste what you have from that other RC thread with your tank info. Then you can use the thread here to link into so you won't have to type things over and over. You can just refer people to your own thread.
 

alvintheclownfish

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bigperm":yvnuls2e said:
alvintheclownfish":yvnuls2e said:
wow , i read ure other thread and wow. i really cant belive what i just read lol. its really not funny tho being you have alot of llive animals that could die, i have the 24 aquapod but i got the 150 wat metal halide bulbs, and i waited a very long time b4 i got my clam. well i dont wsanna be an a%s but feeding so much is gna cuz a big tiff, the corals should be fed twice a week, and the clam everyday but they only eat live pyto and a clam that size needs light more than food so its prob slowly dying in there. also water changes tooo much will cause problems being that your bacteria wont have a chance to multipky and your water params are gna vary. Say hello to bio-spira. also goni u bought i belive will die in a year or less, the xenia doesnt need to be fed, u really should done this research first omg, i never read anything like this and cantg belive im responding either. but any way good luck and any questions ill help, and plz KEEP DOING RESEARCH

yeah, well what can I say... i really didn't know what I was getting into. I let the LFS guide me and they don't seem too concerned.

Who knows... maybe I'll get lucky... probably not though :?

its not ure fault, i hate fish stores b/c most of them dont even know but they come off as know it alls, but dont sweat and sorry if i camme off strong, but keep reading on the corals you have and post pics so we can all see if there is probs and how to fix it, but again that free fish is awsome and if some corals die oh well just picture them as free. and the goniopora, i amde the same mistake and mine just was doing horrible so i took it out , but for the clam look at this website www.thatpetplace.com and they have a livestock link and look for the live phyto and get that but becareful and only use liek 4 drops a day, but again my bad and we are here to help, your aquascape looks nice lol
 

Meloco14

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Welcome to the forums bigperm. Finding this site was one of the most useful things you could have done to ensure your success in this hobby. We don't have the numbers of people that the other site has, but IMO the people here are more knowledgable, more helpful, and much more friendly. To start out, I will say that the method in which you set up your first tank is far from normal, and in most circumstances it leads to disaster. However, it looks like the LFS set you up with quality rock, sand, and water and it is very obvious that the owner of the store stands behind his products 100%. I believe you will be successful, but make sure you are aware that this is far from normal and do not try to set up future tanks this way. My biggest concern was with your clam, but if the LFS owner is that certain it will survive then you must have the aquapod with the metal halide bulb. If this is true, then you should be fine. I would place the clam up somewhere in the upper half of the tank on some stable rock, though, and not in the sand bed. As far as testing goes, if you are fine with taking water to the LFS all the time then that is fine. But it is better to have the essential test kits on hand in case of emergency, and also to become more familiar with how reef tanks work and to become less dependant on the LFS. I am glad to see you took the initiative and purchased a few kits. The next purchase you should consider would be a refractometer like lawdawg suggested. This is a very important tool that not enough reef keepers use. It is important to always know what your salinity is. Even though you are buying the SW premixed from the store, adding sw + sw = different salinity unless the two sources of sw are exactly the same. Also, water evaporates from the tank every day. Salt does not. As your water level goes down, your salinity increases, and you need to top off the tank with FRESH water. Knowing the salinity will tell you how much freshwater you need to add. During water changes it is very important to use new water with the same salinity as your tank water. Also when you purchase live stock and bring it home, knowing the salinity of the bag water vs. your tank water helps you determine how long you need to acclimate for. Plastic hydrometers are very unreliable, and if you cannot possibly afford a refractometer (but judging from your purchases you can) then at least get a good quality glass hydrometer. Okay, i'm off my salinity rant. What's next...
Feeding - the girl you talked to is wrong. Pretty much wrong by a complete 180 degrees. A reef tank is a closed system, and a delicate balance of nutrients (input) and filtration (output). If you feed too much, the filtration can't handle it and the nutrients build up. Not only does this cause algae outbreaks, it can actually crash your system and kill fish, corals, and other inverts. What you should be shooting for is feeding just enough for your fish to eat in 3-5 minutes, twice a day. Feed small amounts at a time, ensuring 95% of the food gets eaten while still in the water column. What you don't want is piles of food on the sand and in the corners of the tank, as your gut instinct was telling you. For the frozen food follow the instructions lawdawg provided to limit phosphate. I wouldn't feed any liquid coral or invert food. None of those corals really need it. If you feel more comfortable doing so, feed very sparingly and only twice a week. Despite what alvin wrote, that clam does not need supplemental feeding. Only baby clams (less than 2" long) require feeding and from the pics your clam looks bigger than this. You mention having an anemone but I don't see that listed on your original post. What kind is it? It may be moving around trying to find ideal light and current. Let it choose its own spot. If it looks like it can't find a good spot you might need to place it higher up (to get more light) or rearrange the current. You should feed the anemone 2-3 times a week. Something like silversides or whole shrimp with the shell on is good. Do not force feed it, but hold the food near its tentacles and try to get it to pull it in on its own. Since the tank is new and the anemone is stressed it might not feed. Just keep trying once every couple days until it will. Again, do not force it.
Do you have any current pics? In your original pics your corals were not opened all the way, and your newer pics are too out of focus to tell. I would like to see how they are doing. Anyway, I hope this helps. I believe you will be successful as you seem to have a good gut feeling of what is right or wrong, and your lfs owner will stand behind his products and advice. I would recommend getting another book or two to help you understand the biological processes that go on in our tanks. Knowing these (bio filtration, nitrogen cycle, relationship between ca and alk) will make everything a little easier, as you gain an understanding of why everything is happening. I like Natural Reef Aquariums by John Tullock, and there are other great recommendations if you do a search for books on this forum. Also check out advanced aquarist online magazine (there is a link at the top of the page) and the library here (link also at top of page). BTW I love your fish, especially the helfrichi, I don't think you understand how great of a deal you got. That is pretty much the creme de la creme of nano fishes and the vast majority of people can't find or afford one. I would advise against adding any other fish into that tank for a long time, and even then only one or two small ones. Anyway, good luck, welcome, and post any other questions you have.
 

bigperm

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Thanks everyone!

Ok... here's what's going on so far.

I'm placing an order for the refractormeter linked up above. At the same time, I'll get a few more testing kits.

The only test kits I have now are PO, PH and Nitrate.

For the last two days, my PO is 1.0, PH is 8 and Nitrate is 25.

I cleaned the filter yesterday and did a water change on Monday trying to get the PO down to 1.

I've lost the anemome. Found him stuck in the mini 606 intake pump. He wasn't looking good and was moving all around the tank, and I guess he gave up the ghost.

So, I've lost 1 so far.

I've cut back on the feeding... everything else in the tank looks good.

As far as what I got for lighting, I don't believe it's a halide.

I've taken a photo of it.. maybe someone can tell what exactly it is.

DSC00074.jpg


Here's what the tank looks like today:

DSC00070.jpg


The clowns seem to like that bottom right corner. I did see the sand gobi eat so that's a good sign.

Everyone seems to be eating... the corals, the crabs, the fish. I guess things are going ok in there.
 

Meloco14

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Good choice on the refractometer. For additional test kits I would recommend calcium, alkalinity, and ammonia. Calcium and alkalinity are related to each other and contribute to the health of your corals as well as the buffering capacity of your water. If you haven't read up on this yet I would recommend you do, as it is very important to keeping corals happy. Ammonia is deadly even in trace amounts in your aquarium so you want to be able to test for that when you think something is wrong. Those lights are definitely the PC daylight/actinic combo. Personally I wouldn't keep a clam in there, let alone a crocea (crocea's are the most light demanding of the tridacna clams), but from the picture it seems to be healthy and is not over extending its mantle. I am assuming the LFS owner knows from experience that this clam will survive under this lighting. If I were you, I would definitely move it higher up in the rocks though. This will provide more light, and in the wild croceas live in the rocks anyway. Other than that your tank looks great. I hope things continue to go well for you.
 

bigperm

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Meloco14":1rl3yrs1 said:
Good choice on the refractometer. For additional test kits I would recommend calcium, alkalinity, and ammonia. Calcium and alkalinity are related to each other and contribute to the health of your corals as well as the buffering capacity of your water. If you haven't read up on this yet I would recommend you do, as it is very important to keeping corals happy. Ammonia is deadly even in trace amounts in your aquarium so you want to be able to test for that when you think something is wrong. Those lights are definitely the PC daylight/actinic combo. Personally I wouldn't keep a clam in there, let alone a crocea (crocea's are the most light demanding of the tridacna clams), but from the picture it seems to be healthy and is not over extending its mantle. I am assuming the LFS owner knows from experience that this clam will survive under this lighting. If I were you, I would definitely move it higher up in the rocks though. This will provide more light, and in the wild croceas live in the rocks anyway. Other than that your tank looks great. I hope things continue to go well for you.

Yeah... i'm going to order

Salifert Ammonia Test Kit 13.99
Refractometer 49.99
Salifert Nitrite Test Kit 13.99
Salifert Calcium Test Kit 17.99
Salifert Kh/Alk Test Kit 13.99

From Saltwaterfish.com unless someone has a better supply store. This place is going to charge me $10 for shipping.

How high should I place the clam? I can put him on the top of the LR... is that too close?
 

bigperm

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Meloco14":3uv0kvms said:
Good choice on the refractometer. For additional test kits I would recommend calcium, alkalinity, and ammonia. Calcium and alkalinity are related to each other and contribute to the health of your corals as well as the buffering capacity of your water. If you haven't read up on this yet I would recommend you do, as it is very important to keeping corals happy. Ammonia is deadly even in trace amounts in your aquarium so you want to be able to test for that when you think something is wrong. Those lights are definitely the PC daylight/actinic combo. Personally I wouldn't keep a clam in there, let alone a crocea (crocea's are the most light demanding of the tridacna clams), but from the picture it seems to be healthy and is not over extending its mantle. I am assuming the LFS owner knows from experience that this clam will survive under this lighting. If I were you, I would definitely move it higher up in the rocks though. This will provide more light, and in the wild croceas live in the rocks anyway. Other than that your tank looks great. I hope things continue to go well for you.

I'll go w/ better lighting if somone can direct me :D
 

Meloco14

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Those kits look good. Salifert makes good quality stuff. I have never ordered from that site so I don't know what to tell you there. I have always had good experiences with our sponsors, which you can find under the sponsors link at the top of the page. Marine Depot and Premium Aquatics are two that I am happy with. I would put the clam somewhere where it can be secure and not fall over. When you set it on a rock it will eventually glue itself in place, so make sure it is somewhere you like having him. Removing them once they are cemented down is tricky. One trick that some people use is to put the clam on a small piece of rock or a shell. Let them cement to that, then you can move them wherever you want. I would say midway up the rocks would be fine. If you put him too far up you won't be able to see him well and admire the colors of the mantle. Again, make sure he is stable and won't fall down. Upgrading the lighting in that hood would be a bit of a process, so unless you like tinkering with things I wouldn't recommend it. Unfortunately it is not as simple as switching out the bulbs for better ones. You need different ballasts, bigger bulbs probably wouldnt fit in there, and the more light you put in there the more heat you have to deal with. It can be done, with some effort, so if you decide you do want to do this let me know and I can try to help. I changed the lighting in my nanocube so it would be sort of similar.
 

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