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simple

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Hi, im thinking about upgrading to a 56 gallon reef, and i was planning on putting a sump in it, the only problem is that im still very confused about the sump. I understand its used for filtering refugiums and protein skimmers, but i am unsure about were everything should go as well as the plumbing, and other things that i would need to buy. Ill attach pics of the sump i plan on getting
anything would help.
thanks.
 

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cindre2000

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Why are there 9 holes in that sump? The most holes I have ever seen in a sump is 2...

Essentially a really simple pattern is thus:

Drain from tank into=>
Skimmer Section=>
over a baffle to maintain water level=>
optional refugium section=>
baffles to remove bubbles=>
pump return section=>
Display Tank

Other than that, you main have an auto-top-off or probes that change the configuration. You can also add other 'special' sections.
 

simple

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This is what the item is described as (its used) :
This is model UHF-PRO48. It is in very good condition. It measures 16" H x 16" Deep x 24" Long. It is very well made using 3/8" acrylic. Most sumps are made from thinner plastic, this one is not. This sump is really great to use if you use a protein skimmer from ETSS as it was designed to work hand in hand with their skimmers. The sump has a bulkhead that allows the skimmer to be connected externally . This is a great feature because they have the bulkhead at the right height so you can just connect the skimmer. The bulkhead is also 1-1/2" so it matches the size of the output on the ETSS skimmer so no up/down sizing is needed on your fittings. If you are using on of the ETSS skimmers, this sump is a must have. They have the sump set up so that the skimmer always has the same water height which makes the skimmer work much better and require no adjustments once it is dialed in. There is also another 1" bulkhead for an external pump to power the skimmer. Other brands of skimmers can also be adapted to the sump. The sump has 2 one inch drain inputs. Very nice if you have a dual overflow. There is also a 1" bulkhead for a return pump. There are also 4 1/2" bulkheads that can be used for accessories or left un-used if you don't need them. I used them to plumb in a UV sterilizer and an auto top off. These make plumbing in accessories very easy and look much better than having hoses going everywhere. The sump also has a probe holder for up to 4 probes and a half cover.

so with that taken into account what would i need to buy? do i need pumps both for draining and returning? are there any you recommend? also are there any skimmers youd recommend for this other than ETSS? and what else would i need to buy to have this up and running?
 

mr_X

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you need to either plug some holes, or purchase an ETSS skimmer. you'll also need to plug up one of those intakes. you are not going to need a dual drain overflow for a 56 gallon tank. or you can just run one drain into two holes.
is their plastic over half of the sump? it appears that way. can you remove it?
if not, you HAVE TO buy an external skimmer like the ETSS mentioned, in order to implement this sump.
if you didn't purchase this sump yet, and plan on keeping a refugium, and in-sump skimmer, i'd pass on this one, and go with something less complicated. it looks like it used to be a FO sump, with bio ball chamber.
 

simple

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after some research i decided il will follow Mr. X's advice. I think i will just build my own sump, i attached some plans i found online that seem good. Just a few questions, whats a good yet "cheap" skimmer as well as a return pump that you would recommend? and would i need an overflow box?
 

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cindre2000

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Skip the bioballs and just put leave that first area for a skimmer. You will also want to add baffles after the refugium to get rid of micro bubbles. For a skimmer, I recomend a ASM G1, G1X, or G2; or an Octopus DNW-110 recirculating skimmer. These are a decent price for their ability. There are cheaper skimmers however, they don't always perform nearly as well as these.

The return pump depends on your overflow. I would assume that you would have one 1" overflow, allowing approximately 5-600gph. A Mag 5 or 7, Quiet One 3000, or the Ocean Runner 2500 all are pumps you can consider. I would go with the ocean runner.

Having or not having an overflow box depends on how you are doing the overflow. A drilled tank vs. a hang on. I would just drill the tank.
 

mr_X

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i agree on drilling the tank, and i also agree on the ASM skimmers, alot of bang for your buck. i would get the skimmer and return pump, and then build the sump around it. then you will really understand what size you need to make the chambers.
it's also good advice to remove the bio ball section of that diagram. your live rock will do that job for you.
and finally, as cindre also stated, you'll need more than one baffle before your return or the microbubbles will drive you nuts :wink:
 

Mthompson

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Simple - I would do just what your name is...keep it simple!

This picture is of my sump before I hooked it into the systems. I hastily made the first baffles, which turned out to be the wrong height. I measured where I wanted the overflows, and then calculated how much water would drain into the sump if the power goes out or I need to turn the pump off for maintenance. Next, I measured how much that volume of water would fill up my sump...I added an extra inch to that to be on the safe side and then cut new baffles to meet those measurements (added on in paint - because I didn't take a good picture).

I also added a new baffle on the left (or intake from the display side). This helps keep the microbubbles, the stuff you are trying to skim, and water on that side longer so that the skimmer can be more efficient.

Optional features -

- On the two inside baffles I cut slits along the top to help keep fish, crabs, and snails from leaving the refugium section and entering the other chambers

- The blue filter sponge area can be removed for a larger refugium area. I like the sponge in there. Many people say that it traps matter that breaks down and increases the bioload (Nitrogen cycle). My feeling is that if it is in the system it will do this anyway (whether trapped or not - trapping it in a spot doesn't cause it to break down) and this allows me to remove it easily.
 

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