Thank you very much for the good advice. I did check the PH this morning, before the lights were on. If it does remain low, is there any advice for raising it? I have a lot of growth on the live rock, that seems to be doing great. Some polyps of some type, and I noticed to tube type worms in the crevices last night. They were gone this morning. The growth on my rocks comes out beautifully during the day, and retracts at night. I'll keep checking for ammonia. Thank you again. Jesse.
New Tank Help!!!
- Thread starter stoneriff
- Start date
- Location
- NY
Jesse, the life on your LR is due to it coming from a very mature system. That's why your cycle should be relatively quick and painless 
. However, the bacteria on the LR needs waste to sustain the biological colonies built up on the rock. This is the reason people recommend adding fish slowly and over time. If you completely stock your tank with 10 (arbitrary #) fish, the amount of waste they will produce will be more than your biological colonies can process without going through another ammonia cycle.
Basically what happens is that when your system is running, completely cycled, stocked with livestock and stable, the number of biological colonies remains relatively constant. When you add another fish or two, they produce more waste than the colonized bacteria can handle and the colonies have to increase in order to process the additional waste the added fish are producing.
In a new system like you're working with, you want to make sure there is no die off and the bacteria can handle the waste you're about to add. The food you put in there to rot away and 'disappear' is commensurate with the digested food (waste) from your future fish. When you know that the bacteria can process the food you put in there, and your levels return to zero, then you'll be ready to add fish.
I wouldn't worry about the pH rising and falling at this time. A range of 7.8 (with lights out in the morning) to 8.3 (end of day just before lights go off) is a large swing, but not unheard of in a system. To create a bit of pH stability, turn your fuge lights on when your display lights go off. Then post your pH results here and I bet we see a bit more stability.
HTH,
Russ
. However, the bacteria on the LR needs waste to sustain the biological colonies built up on the rock. This is the reason people recommend adding fish slowly and over time. If you completely stock your tank with 10 (arbitrary #) fish, the amount of waste they will produce will be more than your biological colonies can process without going through another ammonia cycle.Basically what happens is that when your system is running, completely cycled, stocked with livestock and stable, the number of biological colonies remains relatively constant. When you add another fish or two, they produce more waste than the colonized bacteria can handle and the colonies have to increase in order to process the additional waste the added fish are producing.
In a new system like you're working with, you want to make sure there is no die off and the bacteria can handle the waste you're about to add. The food you put in there to rot away and 'disappear' is commensurate with the digested food (waste) from your future fish. When you know that the bacteria can process the food you put in there, and your levels return to zero, then you'll be ready to add fish.
I wouldn't worry about the pH rising and falling at this time. A range of 7.8 (with lights out in the morning) to 8.3 (end of day just before lights go off) is a large swing, but not unheard of in a system. To create a bit of pH stability, turn your fuge lights on when your display lights go off. Then post your pH results here and I bet we see a bit more stability.
HTH,
Russ
- Location
- NY
The most efficient way to run a fuge is to have it above your display tank and gravity feed it to the display. Most people don't have that kind of room. So next best way is to have a dedicated tank with LR rubble (pod pile), possibly keep a remote deep sand bed in it, stock it with macro algae's (cheatomorpha & gracilleria are great) and light it with a cheap $10 reflector from HD on a reverse light cycle from your display.
Very easily done..........if you have the room.
Russ
Very easily done..........if you have the room.
Russ
Some pics of these please, the worms don't worry me but the "polyps of some type" do.
Do they look anything like this http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=aiptasia&btnG=Search+Images&gbv=2
or this? http://images.google.com/images?gbv=2&hl=en&safe=off&q=majano&btnG=Search+Images
A hang on fuge won't give you the stability in the PH that you're looking for. The problem with them is they are getting the light from your tank at the same time your tank is...so no opposing light cycle.
Bowfront tanks don't lend themselves well to fuges due to the space within the cabinet being triangular. Some folks have had custom fuges built for them. You might try and measure what is the largest sized rectangle (tank) you can fit in there,. Maybe a 20H?
Also, is your tank RR or would you need to use an overflow box to move the water to the fuge?
Bowfront tanks don't lend themselves well to fuges due to the space within the cabinet being triangular. Some folks have had custom fuges built for them. You might try and measure what is the largest sized rectangle (tank) you can fit in there,. Maybe a 20H?
Also, is your tank RR or would you need to use an overflow box to move the water to the fuge?
Thank you for the advice. I'd love to have an experienced person come by my place, and check out my tank. I don't want to make any ignorant, and costly mistakes. Any takers? I will happily pick you up, and drop you off. I also noticed a cool tiny white starfish on my glass yesterday. Good, bad?
It would be easiest if you would start a tank thread..list all of your equipment, all of your water parameters and most importantly POST PICS..of the tank itself!!!
There are many here that can tell you just from looking at pics and and reviewing your parameters what is going on in your tank without making a personal visit. The water parameters are critical, do you have test kits for all of them yet?
Pics of whatever you saw in that rock would also be helpful
There are many here that can tell you just from looking at pics and and reviewing your parameters what is going on in your tank without making a personal visit. The water parameters are critical, do you have test kits for all of them yet?
Pics of whatever you saw in that rock would also be helpful
Sorry for my ignorance. I'm just a little paranoid. I'm using AP test kits. No ammonia, no nitrites, and no nitrates. PH is good. Temp is good. I'm using a Pro Clear 125 wet dry. I'm using rock instead of bio balls. I have a good skimmer. How do I post pics on this site? Thanks.It would be easiest if you would start a tank thread..list all of your equipment, all of your water parameters and most importantly POST PICS..of the tank itself!!!
There are many here that can tell you just from looking at pics and and reviewing your parameters what is going on in your tank without making a personal visit. The water parameters are critical, do you have test kits for all of them yet?
Pics of whatever you saw in that rock would also be helpful
No Alk/Ca/Magnesium kits yet? You're going to need them. Temp & PH 'good'..isn't enough info...
Pics are best uploaded to a photo site and then posted on here. I personally like Photobucket, but there are many others as well. Copy the http link they provide (after you have uploaded them) and size the pics to 600 x 400 and then insert them in your posts using the picture icon on the tool bar above the box you are posting in.
Pics are best uploaded to a photo site and then posted on here. I personally like Photobucket, but there are many others as well. Copy the http link they provide (after you have uploaded them) and size the pics to 600 x 400 and then insert them in your posts using the picture icon on the tool bar above the box you are posting in.
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