I am setting up a 90 gal. tank. It came with a canopy with a retrofit VHO fiture to hold 4 110 watt bulbs. I don't hear much about VHO's. Someone told me that it is old technology?? Will these get me started for a while till I get a better lights?

I beg to differ the guy that got me into reef tanks has the same thing 440 watts of VHO and he can keep and grow anything he wants I get alot of my sps from him and mine do great and I have HO T-5sTom, the VHO's will be fine to get you started. You won't have great success with the more difficult corals, LPS and SPS. But softies and leathers should be fine. Not sure if you mean just cycling your tank with the VHO's, because that would absolutely be fine too.
Russ
I beg to differ the guy that got me into reef tanks has the same thing 440 watts of VHO and he can keep and grow anything he wants I get alot of my sps from him and mine do great and I have HO T-5s
lol russ i was going to say the same thing but not up to debate what i am not using, because 1 person may get away with something does not me you or anyone else will, and try keeping a purple monster or some of the other hard to keep sps under vho will = a white coral
sorry I jus glanced quick and dod not see the tank size he has a 75 gallon sps/mixed reef
I think My SPS and LPS would all disagree with you. I run 440W vho on an icecap ballast and couldnt be happier with the results for acropora, montipora, poccilopora, blastomussa, duncans, and many more. VHO's are prefectly suitable for a permanent fixture over an SPS or LPS dominated tank. my corals show better color that some people local who run MH lighting, while the par rating is not as high you get a more even l8ight intesity through out the tank where as halides are really only "great" directly centered under the bulb while there intesity fade rteally fast off to the sides limiting their usefullness especially since they burn through electricity so fast as well as being enourmus wasters of energy in the form of heat.You won't have great success with the more difficult corals, LPS and SPS. Russ
actually watts is the least reliable way to measure how effective a light is. wats only shows how much energy is consumed in the operqation of a device it has absolutly nothing to do with the ending output. Par (intenssity) is the more accurate way to measure a lights effectiveness a simple Lux meter can show how effective different lights are at different depths. honestly 4 inches of depth difference isnt going to change all taht much, but if you move 4 inches side ways out from under the center of a halide you expirience serious par drop off. in my opinion you can't go wrong using any of these (8 bulb t-5 ho set up, 2 x 250halides with either VHO or PC actinics, or 4x 110W VHO). I would not reccomend power compacts for a 90g.do use gauge the light output in something else than watts?????????????
not to confuse the issue even more but 2 x 250 w halides doesnt really equal 500 watts over the entire tank it is in reality 250w over the focal point under the bulb fading to the perifials, same for my VHOs if you break it into 2 foot sections I actually only have about 220 w for every 2 feet because the light out put from the far bulb (or far end of the bulb in my case) doesn not reach to the opposite side of the tank.or if I use 2 250w MH =500watt
