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MikeyZO

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Location
Melville, NY
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Recently (within the past week) there are two spots on my sandbed that have been turning pink. Everytime I stir the sand up a little, the pink comes back in that same spot. Hasnt seem to spread at all. I've even seen it go away on its own and reappear a day or two later. Is this red slime algae or something else?
 

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MikeyZO

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Location
Melville, NY
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Can it grow on corals also?
It also occurred to me that I usually put a phosphate pad under my filter media, and the last 2 times I did
a water change (which is also when I change the media) I forgot to put one down. So I put one down
today. Thats the only thing I can think of that has changed other than my one fish dying. Can decay
from one fish cause that sort of outbreak?
 

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boardryder

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CT
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Great. That rock with red slime looks like a rock I got from a lfs. They told me it was cured and at the time I thought it was coraline. I guess i didn't catch that it stunk horribly either. Thanks lfs.
 

MikeyNYC

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White Plains, NY
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Salifert Kit

Hey Mike, I wouldn't even bother wasting your money on the salifert kit, it's not only a waste of money, but also a waste of time. I made the mistake of picking one up, and in the end just threw the whole thing out. The kit uses a system of light blue colors to come up with a numerical value for phosphate levels, differentiating between those value are almost impossible, and its more like guessing then providing any real useful data. I have 20/20, and no i'm not blind.

Like others have mentioned the only method at this point to provide accurate information would be through the use meter like the one offered by hanna instruments, there are others but that's one of the popular ones. The meter cost last I checked somewhere in the range of $150-$180

Rather then opting to purchase a meter, I have elected to just change out the media every month or so. Media replacement is one of those tank specific things, so it may or may not last longer for others.

If you haven't already purchased a Phosban reactor, then regardless of the slime issue, it would be a good investment for the improvement of your system as whole.

Good luck with the tank, Catch you later Mike
 
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marki24

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Location
Long Island, NY
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increase your water flow/movement in that area. Cut back on lighting by 2 hours. Feed every other day. Do water changes(weekly) and you should see results within a short time. Thats what worked for me. Hope that helps.
 

NYPDFrogman

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Location
Vernon, NJ
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I have a lamotte test kit that is pretty good. I just bought a hanna LR photometer.
I run 3 reactors on my 180 2 with GFO and 1 with ESV carbon
I'm winning my battle with cynao.
I had a large die off of brown star polyp( thankfully!)

weekly water changes and GFO!
 

pecan2phat

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Location
Wallingford, CT
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6 week regimen & I would continue the maintenance dosage if your tank has a history of cyno returning. If you utilize filter socks, then I would break up the cyno mat preferably by siphoning at first and increasing the flow near the bottom of the tank. Do not use UV or ozone for the 1st 36 hours after each dosing.
 

MikeyZO

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Location
Melville, NY
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Ok so I did a 2 water changes, added a phosphate pad, siphoned out as much of the cyano as I could reach, cut my lighting and my feedings. I'm going to order new bulbs since mine are about 7 months old now. My last question is this. Here is a picture of my yellow polyps with some cyano on it... I think this is where it started as it is where I first noticed the problem. The cyano has subsided off the stalks somewhat over the past few days, but is still there. Is there a way to get the cyano off the rock without damaging the coral? I'm afraid siphoning will be too strong and a turkey baster might damage them. Any thoughts?
 

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