- Location
- Wallingford, CT
Thought the title was funny :spin:
But seriously:
I have a 72" PFO Solaris H4 LED light with mounting legs FS. - $225
I will not ship this nor deliver with the only exception of the MR Swap on 12/4/11.
This fixture weighs about 60lbs. It can be picked up in LI, M-F till 2:30pm with prior notice or in CT on the weekends.
It's really only mean't to be sold for a DIY project or I would use this in it's current condition for a FOWLR or LPS tank.
It's a fully functioning light with some dim LEDs but reliability is iffy on these 4th generation series. I've had the light for 2 yrs and am the 2nd owner. There is no support for these lights since PFO went out of business a while back. Some of the things that I would consider doing if I was a DIYer:
1) Slowly change over each array (25 LEDs) with Cree stars on 1" aluminum strips that you can purchase from Rapid LED & HD or Lowes in 6' lengths. You would have to cut the aluminum strips to match the MCPCB and predrill the mount holes. Then either drill the stars in or glue them down with Artic Silver or use the adhesive mounts that they sell out there. Solder the stars and use the old molex connector. I would probably use the same 5 strips per array but maybe only 4 stars per strip if you wanted to save on overall amount of LEDs used. I have some extra non-working or dim strips you can experiment on if you wanted to attempt to replace the stars on an original MCPCB strip.
A better solution is if you were a decent DIYer with good soldering skills. You can de-solder the bad or dim LED on a board and carefully pry off the old emitter. Since these are MCPCB boards, you have to be carefull not to damage the printed circuits when prying off an expoxied LED. Then just buy your choice or raw LEDs without the star and solder back onto the MCPCB. The optics need to be glued back on to the board since these need to be dremeled off. This is most cost effective way to replace the LEDs without making new strips. Again, there are about 8 spare strips you can experiment with while the fixture is still lit and operational.
2) I would change out the original power supplies using computer supplies. There is a bunch of info on RC about doing this, you just need to salvage the original connector of the power supply since this is how it connects to the light fixture. The original power supplies are noisy and old. I have 3 non-working power supplies that you can swipe the connector from so that you still hav the working power supplies on hand.
3) I would also change out the 4 fans on the fixture itself, they work but if I was rejuvenating this fixture, that's what I would do.
But seriously:
I have a 72" PFO Solaris H4 LED light with mounting legs FS. - $225
I will not ship this nor deliver with the only exception of the MR Swap on 12/4/11.
This fixture weighs about 60lbs. It can be picked up in LI, M-F till 2:30pm with prior notice or in CT on the weekends.
It's really only mean't to be sold for a DIY project or I would use this in it's current condition for a FOWLR or LPS tank.
It's a fully functioning light with some dim LEDs but reliability is iffy on these 4th generation series. I've had the light for 2 yrs and am the 2nd owner. There is no support for these lights since PFO went out of business a while back. Some of the things that I would consider doing if I was a DIYer:
1) Slowly change over each array (25 LEDs) with Cree stars on 1" aluminum strips that you can purchase from Rapid LED & HD or Lowes in 6' lengths. You would have to cut the aluminum strips to match the MCPCB and predrill the mount holes. Then either drill the stars in or glue them down with Artic Silver or use the adhesive mounts that they sell out there. Solder the stars and use the old molex connector. I would probably use the same 5 strips per array but maybe only 4 stars per strip if you wanted to save on overall amount of LEDs used. I have some extra non-working or dim strips you can experiment on if you wanted to attempt to replace the stars on an original MCPCB strip.
A better solution is if you were a decent DIYer with good soldering skills. You can de-solder the bad or dim LED on a board and carefully pry off the old emitter. Since these are MCPCB boards, you have to be carefull not to damage the printed circuits when prying off an expoxied LED. Then just buy your choice or raw LEDs without the star and solder back onto the MCPCB. The optics need to be glued back on to the board since these need to be dremeled off. This is most cost effective way to replace the LEDs without making new strips. Again, there are about 8 spare strips you can experiment with while the fixture is still lit and operational.
2) I would change out the original power supplies using computer supplies. There is a bunch of info on RC about doing this, you just need to salvage the original connector of the power supply since this is how it connects to the light fixture. The original power supplies are noisy and old. I have 3 non-working power supplies that you can swipe the connector from so that you still hav the working power supplies on hand.
3) I would also change out the 4 fans on the fixture itself, they work but if I was rejuvenating this fixture, that's what I would do.
