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I've had a Kent float valve fail on me twice while I was away. Salt creep froze it in the closed position so the water level in my sump dropped. I haven't had any problems with my LifeReef float switch that has been running for the past year and a half.

Steve, I didn't mean to sound like I was jumping all over your post. Wasn't sure if you thought that the burr caused the failed starts. In fact I think I found out that Danner Mfg. was aware of the problem through one of your old posts. So now I feel like an even bigger dope. :roll:

The burr has nothing to do with the restart problems. The manufacturer is aware of the restart problem with the Mag7 pump. I have removed the burrs from three Mag7s, because they made a horrific screach, and the two I still own still don't restart. My Mag12 and Mag5 have the same problem. It...

It probably would do very nicely under the MH bulbs. My S. elegans is about 8" under a 250 watt 6500K MH bulb and just soaks up the light.

This is a pic of my yellow leather that has grow under 250 watt Iwasakis for about a year and a half. The pic is just with the VHOs on. It will be moved to a 55 gal lighted with just VHOs. I'll post another pic down the road if the color changes.

I have the Oceanic 120RR and don't have a problem with the overflows. Plenty of room for my durso standpipes and my heaters as well. Guess you don't need wide corner boxes if you run Stockman pipes. I have both AGA and Oceanic tanks and the quality is superior in the Oceanic product. $110...

I have two Mag7s, a Mag12, and a Mag5. They all fail to restart after a power failure. I haven't had any of them overheat. Many people have run them 24/7 without any problems. I won't buy another Mag pump again. Will most likely plumb my tank with an Ampmaster next year when I set it up...

2P2R, The tentacles that my hammer displays now are at least twice as long as the old pic I posted. Also depends on the time of day. My coral seems to contract just before the lights are scheduled to go out. It is also one of the first corals to contract when the water quality declines. The...

My hammer is near the bottom of the tank (about 20" under the MH) in mild current. Originally the tank was lighted with 2 x 175 watt MH and 440 watts of VHO . It did very well. I upgraded to 250 watt MH and even with a slow acclimation it didn't expand as much. It is now shielded by a larger...

Here are some of mine. Ignore the waffer algae. It's no longer there.

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by davelin315: <strong>My bad, then. I have seen the yellow cup and the yellow scroll, and I think I always assumed they were the same species...</strong><hr></blockquote> No problem. I thought...

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by davelin315: <strong> I have yet to see a turbinaria that was light colored enough to be able to be dyed yellow, unless it was completely bleached, in which case, it wouldn't be coloring up in...

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by davelin315: <strong>There is yellow turbinaria, you know.....I don't know if it would need more intense lighting, or less, but one or the other might return it to the original...

DRT, Do you have any pics of this?

They actually don't inject them. They just add the dye to the water and bag the coral. But you're right, it's abuse no matter how it's done.

Matt, What type of microscope and camera equipment are you using?

Tybond, Sounds like it may be a dye job. I think the only natural colors are green and brown. Yellow, pink, and oranges seem to be the favorite colors of the dye junkies.

Thought I'd post this before and after. T. peltata 4 weeks ago soon after purchase: And today: [ February 15, 2002: Message edited by: Tcook ]</p>