Input sought on planned changes/"reboot" of my 180

[Alfredo De La Fe]

Ok, I need to ?reboot? my 180 and wanted to run some of these changes by advanced reefers for input.

As many of you know, I lost almost everything to two blackouts and recently lost my return pump and one of my Metal Halide ballasts to Sandy.

I want to make many changes, but the biggest are:

1. I need to swap out my return pump. Right now it is plumbed with two returns coming off of a T via flexible PVC to a GEN-X external pump. I was using sprinkler heads that automatically turned 180 degrees as water returned to the system, but these have a ?stainless steel? rod in them that eventually rust and they need to be swapped out every 4-6 months. What return ?attachment? are YOU using and why?

2. I want to ?wipe out? every single worm currently in my system because I was plagued with parasitic worms which would kill every clam I put in my tank. Made it impossible to keep clams in my 180. I am think of one of three options:

a) Use interceptor to kill all worms in the tank (will it kill them?), that way the coralline algae and bacteria are not wiped out.
b) Put two cups of Clorox in the tank and let it run, then do three 25% water changes over the next two weeks as the rock cycles again. I don?t know if this will kill all of the worms and it will make a BIG stinking mess.
c) Take out all rock and dry it for two weeks. Remove all sand and throw away and put new sand and cycle rock. (This would be a LOT of work and I would end up with major phosphate spikes from the dried rock and several serious algae blooms)

3. I need to improve/enhance circulation. Either I add a closed loop or I add circulation pumps. Realistically I am thinking of adding two Vortech MP40?s or MP60?s OR adding three or four Hydor Koralia Evolutions OR 4-6 strategically placed Hydor Koralia Nanos connected to my controller.

4. I need to have my controller repaired. Jim of FathomLED has offered to graciously offered to do this for me. (Thank you!)

5. I need to upgrade my lighting from 3-400W Metal Halides to LED. I am currently considering a few options:

a) FathomLED (They look good, the guy that handles the warranty is a good guy and clearly goes out of his way for his customers, they will extend warranty, they are highly controllable AND they are VERY cheap- they would cost me about $1,000 for my 180)
b) Pacific Sun LED (The software is great and the new distributor seems to be doing a good job, the software is probably the best out of all of them. BUT- the recent history of problems is not good. How things melted down in the past and how these problems were handled I find very troubling)
c) LED Pendants by Orphek. These are cheap and are small. But I am not sure of everything else.

6. I need to change out my solenoid on my calcium reactor and get a new PH/Controller for it or fix the one I have.

7. I need to paint the back of my tank either black or royal blue (thinking royal blue!)

Thoughts? Questions? Opinions?

Alfred

 

[Alfredo De La Fe]

I forgot to mention a BIG one... After I set-up my tank the floor "settled" and it is no longer level. (It has not been level for 10+ years) I want to drain it and level it so that BOTH overflows start to work...

My big concern is whether or not it could take the stress of the change after being in that position for so many years and how likely it is that a tank that will weigh at least 800 LBS with rock but no water can be "easily" leveled.

Alfred

 

[Alfredo De La Fe]

Wow, no replies whatsoever?

 

[FathomLED]

1. Some of our tanks use the Hydor rotating nozzle but may not work with your return gph. But it is an option if you are set on the rotation. Otherwise i would used lockline basically because you can adjust it should you find the current position not to your liking.

2. I am not gonna touch this one as i would hate to be responsible for any damage to your system

3 Even though i use two mp40 in display tank i regret ridding myself of the Hydors. They were aimable and even though you did not have the neat effects as with the ecotech you were not limited to pushing water straight out. You could actually direct the water by just aiming in a different direction. Still straight but you had options.

4 Glad to help please be sure to let me know the amperage of that fuse.

5. Would be a biased response i will leave it alone to let others chime in. We just did some spectral readings (in water, not air) and I am hoping they are posted soon. From there you can make your decision. But one thing i can assure you is that you will not be without light nor will your concerns go unanswered. Ask any of my clients.

6 Check the cost difference. Sometimes it is better to go new as usually one issue leads to you discovering another.

7 Simple to do based on preference of color. The Krylon Fusion is reef safe not that it really matters as you are not painting the inside of the glass. Slow and even coats is the key and if you need help you have my number.

8 Answer to second post seems that 2c of the first post is your answer, as you are going to have one hell of a time leveling that with all the weight inside. plus lifting if you can a tank full of rock is not the best idea.I would hate to see rock slide and tank crack. More work is not the best at first thought but most of the time it I would say it is the safest.

Hope others take the time to chime in. If any questions pm me
or just call.

 

[cali_reef]

I been using two waveline DC pumps on my cube tank, these uses about 45 watts at full speed(on my watt meter) and I have both cranked down to use about 30 watts at the moment. They are super quiet and I have one that turns off at night and it restarts everyday for the last 4 months or so, no issue at all. For more movement via water return, I would use either a Seaswirl or Vertex Mocean, everying else I havebtriednor seen is crap. I have a oceans motion 4 way on my closed loop for about 5 years now, I would not do it again for my next tank. Too much plumbing and the 4 way valve needs too much regular maintenance.

Buy some new Marco's rocks and dry out a few of your favored pieces from you current tank. I believe in old rocks can become neutriun sink and always replaced most of the rocks each time I set up a new tank. Cycling is quick now with all the commercially available bacteria cultures.

Two MP40 or two Tunzes if you want good random flow in a 180. You can go cheap with other brands but you have been in the hobby for the long time, you know how cheap equipment like motors inside a tank can destroy a muti-thousand dollar tank.

I avoid LED for a long time, since I see a lot of LED lighting used in my work and how technology has been moving at a rapid pace. It used to cost close to a million dollar to have LED lighted 777 cabin and now it's less than 1/5 of that and durability have been improving as well. I am using two AI Sol and 4 24w T5 bulbs, replacing my old 250w radium and two 24w T5 on my 36x36 cube. My Apex dims/controls the AI Sol for a 12 hour photo period and the T5 is used for about 6 hours a day as full sun effect. So far I am impressed with the lower power usage and lack of heat, the color and dimming adjustment via Apex is pretty cool too. Growth is not as good as MH.
I liked them enough to buy 4 more used ones for my next tank(don't know when I am buying that tank) since people are dumping them cheap for new model lights. I need to get rid of all the VHO and MH crap I have soon, before they become collector items.

I would say buy a new tank and stand if your current tank is close to 10 years old, that's cheap insurance for the inevitable seam failure. Your tank is subject to more probability with the uneven placement.

 

[Alfredo De La Fe]

Cali- My rock is incredibly nice. You just cant get it anymore, it is Venezuelan rock based on 50+ year old Acropora Palmata skeletons and I have some monster pieces! I have never had any nutrient issues in my tank by the way...

I will look into the Waveline DC pumps, thanks for suggesting them!

Alfred