Tank specifications

[jeffs]

I have a 155gal bow / fish only tank in my living room for past two years. Have saltwater fish only experience for four years total with great success. About one year ago I was asked to maintain a 125 gal reef tank located in business office. Have tried to maintain same with poor results, especially in last two months. Just found this website about three days ago and am hoping you guys will help me fix this tank??????

Tank - 125 gallon rectangular

Lights - made by Hamilton Technology, (4) 96 watt 7100K Blue, timer controlled 8:30am - 8:30pm; (2) 96 watt 6700K White, timer controlled 9:00am - 6:30pm; lights are replaced on yearly basis (last done 11/02)

Filtration - Amiracle MR-300 dual drain (hang on) wet/dry system. The bio-balls are currently in. When I started maintenance they were absent. Two Visi therm heaters are located in sump area.

Protein Skimmer - Red Sea Berlin Hang On skimmer located in sump area
with Mag Drive 500 connected to same

Pump - Little Giant Model 4-MDQ-SC which is fed through the bulkhead of wet / dry system. The return line has "tee" ball valve that feeds into Aquanetics 25IL Ultraviolet Sterilizer. The return for the sterilizer dumps back into the sump. The sterilizer is located beneath tank afixed to stand above sump / little giant. The other half of "tee", return for the Little Giant ,is plumbed to the rear of the tank and is connected to pvc pipe across top of tank (holes along length of pipe).

Ozonizer - Sander Brand which is connected to protein skimmer. Ozonizer has always been set at max - 50 mg O3 / hr. The tank has a Pinpoint ORP montior with the probe located next to hang on box for wet / dry. The monitor generally reads about 250.

Circulation - (4) Maxi-jet Model 400 powerheads; Three of the pumps are affixed and spaced across the top rear of tank. The fourth pump is affixed to right lower side of tank. The powerheads are connected to Red Sea Wave Master Pro. There is also (one) Rio 1700 powerhead affixed to lower left front of tank - runs constantly.

Water - The municipal water is terrible so distilled water is exclusively used. Bottled spring water was previously used but was found to have nitrates. The tank is replenished on a weekly basis with approx 15 gallons due to evapoartion.

Live Rock - I would guestimate there is approx 150 lbs - unk origin

Substrate - appox 2" of fine crushed coral - maybe even some sand but not really sure. (not like the crushed coral in my fish only tank)

Fish - 1 - catfish 1- Hippo Tang
2 - clowns 1 - yellow tang
1 - royal gramma 2 - blue damsels
1 - sailfin tang

Cleaners - 2 - chocolate chip starfish 1 - sand sifting starfish?
approx 12 snails unk type
approx 12 crabs unk type
1 large fancy serpent sea star - tiger striped
1 small red serpent sea star (not sure)

Corals - 5 assorted pieces ( I have to do some research to properly identify them) one of them is definitely a piece of leather.

Products / Food etc - Kent products: coral accel, phytoplex, Iodine;
C-Balance A/B solution; Sea Chem Reef Plus, various pellet food for fish

Salinity - 1.021 / 29 ppt; reef crystals brand; 25 gal water change monthly

Water Test as of 02/26/03-
ammonia - 0
nitrite -0
nitrate- 20ppm (usually runs as high as 90 or more prior to water change)
phosphate - 0
ph - 8.0
alkalinity - unk never checked - guess i need to get test kit
calcium - 400
salinity - 1.021

 

[dagnir]

On the problems with the reef tank. First thing you need to do is a water test. You need to look at Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, ph, calcium, alkalinity, phosphate. A healthy reef tank should have.

Salinity= 1.024 - 1.026 sg.
Ammonia=0
Nitrite =0
Nitrate=0 to 10
PH=8 to 8.3
Calcium=350 to 450
Alkalinity=3 to 4 meq/L
Phosphate=0

Once the water is tested it is much easier to pinpoint problems. If any of the above parameters are high or low there will be problems. Post back with the water parameters.

 

[Reef Guy11]

Hey there Jeff,

Sound like a nice tank that your taking care of. Okay First thing first is to raise the Salinity to 1.025 but do it slowly for you could stress the fish out, if you do it to fast. Next is that, that the UV Steralier it not good for the tank, it kills off to many Good Bacteria that is needed for the tank. So take it off . Well i drew a blank :? . Well you will find more advise on the Subject, So happy reefing and take care of that tank.

 

[dagnir]

I unfortunately have to disagree with what reef guy says about the UV Steralizer. I have never really seen use for them other than for disease control. But my understanding is that they will not adversely affect your beneficial bacteria because those bacteria live on the surface areas in the tank( i.e. sand, rock, glass ). But sense water is pulled from the water column, which has very little bacteria, there is no effect on current aerobic and anaerobic bacteria levels. They work well for desease control. If im wrong about the effect of UV sterilization on beneficial bacteria someone please educate me. But this is what I have read and how i understand it.

 

[Reef Guy11]

Hey Dagnir,

Well From what i was told they aren't good for reefs, FO yes but not Reef's that is what i read and was told. I was going to get one and everyone that i talk to was like no there not good for a reef tank. But who know Maybe i was told a lie I would like to here other Opinion on that please.

 

[dagnir]

I personally would never use them for a reef. And was merely disagreing with the notion of problems with the beneficial bacteria. And I guess I should have stated that I would not use it either. I could definately see problems with phytoplankton amphipods and copepods and other beneficial organisms because they kill everything which passes through them. Now the likelyhood of amphipods or copepods being pulled throught seems thin. Only time I advicate there use is when disease control is needed.