33 Cube - the work begins

[marrone]

D

Good you got the over flow corrected. I would try hooking up the filter sock, that should take anyway the slashing or at least contain it within the sock.

M

 

[nanoreefer22]

I think I got the overflow box under control. But the water going into the sump is creating havoc in there (with and without a durso.) The water comes out with such force it's actually splashing out of the sump! How do I calm it down??

Filter socks...or you could restrict the amount of flow going from the return up to the tank, so you would have less water flowing down into the sump. Which should make the water calmer and less splashy Thats what I did

 

[Dmitry]

I guess filter sock it is! Is it just that - in theory - that the pump is "too powerful?"

There are also 2 very minor "leaks" on two of the fittings. But they're more like drips - a drop forms every few minutes. It's probably not too big a deal - over time salt creep will seal it off. No?

 

[nanoreefer22]

I guess filter sock it is! Is it just that - in theory - that the pump is "too powerful?"

There are also 2 very minor "leaks" on two of the fittings. But they're more like drips - a drop forms every few minutes. It's probably not too big a deal - over time salt creep will seal it off. No?

I wouldn't leave it up to salt creep to mend those drips. Since this was a FW it's a good thing you caught them now. Mark where the leaks are and when you drain and dry around the area fix them now and save yourself from the headache later on.

 

[DevIouS]

you could restrict the amount of flow going from the return up to the tank, so you would have less water flowing down into the sump. Which should make the water calmer and less splashy Thats what I did

Correct.


Guess you still have it in you Kris.


Depending of the size of the return & drain, a mag 7 might be a little too much.
I had to turn it down when I had one on my 65 gal.

 

[nanoreefer22]

Correct.


Guess you still have it in you Kris.


Depending of the size of the return & drain, a mag 7 might be a little too much.
I had to turn it down when I had one on my 65 gal.

A compliment from the "MEAN mod" I'm touched:hug:

Yup I still got it I act :turtle::lol2:

 

[masterswimmer]

There are also 2 very minor "leaks" on two of the fittings. But they're more like drips - a drop forms every few minutes. It's probably not too big a deal - over time salt creep will seal it off. No?

When you stop the flow are you able to get the drips to dry up? If so, when they are completely dry, run some pvc cement around the fittings that have the drip.

If you can't get the drip to dry up without emptying the tank, then you'll need to bring the water level below the point where the fittings are dripping. Once the fittings are 100% dry, run the pvc cement around those fittings as described above.

Once you've done that, let it dry for a good 1/2 hr and run some more pvc cement around it for good measure. Better safe than sorry.

 

[Dmitry]

I'll run some cement on there when I empty the tank, since this is a fresh water dry run. How does a 24 hour period sound for the test?

I do wonder if the Mag 7 is too much... The splashing isn't an issue with the filter sock on, but the drain pvc in the sump vibrates a lot and is quite noisy. Not that that in itself a sign of anything, but it seems like the force is quite strong. On the other hand, I'm not sure I'd want to reduce flow too much. The closed loop is ok, but not super strong. (And the external pump is pretty hot. Is that normal?) Perhaps I should get something like an Eheim 602 gallons? Is a 100gph a big drop to make a difference?

 

[Dmitry]

And here's a pic of the overflow box now. Does the water level look right? The hole on top is currently 3/16 as far as I can tell. Would a bigger hole help with the flushing sound? The water level in the overflow box does not change.

 

[kimoyo]

Hey Dmitry,

I would switch down to a mag 5 which does 310gph at 4' which would match your remora skimmer. You really don't need more flow going thru the sump than what's going in the skimmer. Even if you switched down to a mag 3 which does 270gph at 4' I wouldn't sweat it. And if you needed more flow just get a bigger pump for the close loop.

I would plump the drain and return from the sump with regular pvc. I don't think its a compromise in this situation and would look neater. With the gph your doing and if you drop it more, a few 90 elbows shouldn't hurt but you could probably do it with 2-3 45 elbows. You made the flex pipe coming from the drain longer but it worries me that its not attached to anything. With regular pvc it would be rigid and easier to get socks in and out.

 

[kimoyo]

And here's a pic of the overflow box now. Does the water level look right? The hole on top is currently 3/16 as far as I can tell. Would a bigger hole help with the flushing sound? The water level in the overflow box does not change.

Looks like the hole at the top is too big and too much air is going in. Close the hole with your finger and see what happens. As far as flushing goes I don't use dursos so I'm not sure.

 

[Dmitry]

What do you mean by the drain not being attached to anything?

I'll definitely get a smaller pump, but I think I'll probably go with an Eheim.

Also - and Russ and Mike are going to kill me - but I'm thinking of capping the closed loop and getting a Tunze Nano instead. It would actually give me more flow than the current external pump is doing and probably take up a bit less room in the tank than the lockline pipes I have in there.

 

[Dmitry]

Looks like the hole at the top is too big and too much air is going in. Close the hole with your finger and see what happens. As far as flushing goes I don't use dursos so I'm not sure.

If I close the hole the water level in the overflow goes down and it really starts flushing. With the hole open most of the noise is coming from the sump.

 

[kimoyo]

I mean the end of your flex pvc is just submerged in the sump and its not rigid. If you decide to get a filter sock you will need to elevate the tubing and the end will be closer to the top edges of the sump. A knock may push it out or over the sump putting water on the floor. With the regular pvc it will be rigid and you can use it to hang the drawstring sock.

I was thinking about an eheim but the 1250 is a little small and the 1260 is a little big.

Wait, are you still getting the flushing sound then? If its coming from the water/air hitting the sump then filter sock like everyone else said. If you have a valve on the mag 7, try turning the flow down and the water level in the overflow should drop. When you get the new pump it should drop also.

 

[Dmitry]

I mean the end of your flex pvc is just submerged in the sump and its not rigid. If you decide to get a filter sock you will need to elevate the tubing and the end will be closer to the top edges of the sump. A knock may push it out or over the sump putting water on the floor. With the regular pvc it will be rigid and you can use it to hang the drawstring sock.

I was thinking about an eheim but the 1250 is a little small and the 1260 is a little big.

Wait, are you still getting the flushing sound then? If its coming from the water/air hitting the sump then filter sock like everyone else said. If you have a valve on the mag 7, try turning the flow down and the water level in the overflow should drop. When you get the new pump it should drop also.

I'm getting a sound, but I guess it's more gurgling than flushing and it's coming out of the sump. The overflow box is pretty quiet.

Can I use a ball valve submerged in water? How bad is it to use a ball valve on a pump?

 

[masterswimmer]

I'm getting a sound, but I guess it's more gurgling than flushing and it's coming out of the sump. The overflow box is pretty quiet.

It appears that the Durso is at a good height. Trial and error on that. Good job.

Can I use a ball valve submerged in water? How bad is it to use a ball valve on a pump?

Ball valve submerged in water.....why do you need to do that? As long as the ball valve is on the discharge side of the pump you should be fine. Do NOT put a ball valve on the inlet side of a pump. You don't want to restrict any flow TO the pump, only on the discharge side.


After using the Tunze Nanostream 6025's, I do not like them. I haven't used the 6045 or the 6055, so I can't offer an opinion on them. However, the cost of the 6045/6055 is enough to justify an upgrade to the external closed loop pump. I think you'll have better control of your internal flow with locline. This is JMO though.

Russ

 

[kimoyo]

Like other said a filter sock should take care of that but then you have to change them. You could get something like this

http://www.championlighting.com/product.php?productid=17563&cat=313&page=1

Wes just did this, you should take a look at his thread

http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum/tank-threads/28546-extreme-makeover-65g-reef-edition.html

As far as a ball valve on a pump, it depends on the pump. But you can always do a bypass which is where you tee the outlet of the pump letting one side go up to the tank and the other back in the sump. You put a valve on the line going back to the sump and so your not putting extreme back pressure on the pump.

 

[Dmitry]

Paul: that contraption looks kind of neat, actually! If not for the filter sock, then to keep the pvc in place in the sump!

Here's a pic of the pipe in the sump - I think it's pretty stable. I put a T connection (capped off on the turn side) and that's hanging on to the sump. But that thing might be useful.

I also turned the skimmer - it was too much in the way before.

I just bought a Mag 5 (so expensive at Petland; I'll order it on-line and return it to Petland.) Everything runs much quieter and smoother with it. The photo of the overflow box is with the Mag 5.

Russ: down the road if I want to upgrade the closed loop - how powerful a pump can it take?

 

[Wes]

something is wrong w/ the overflow pic....the water level should be no higher than the "T" in your durso. It looks like you are returning more water than your drain can handle.

also i would stick w/ the closed loop instead of the nanostreams...I have a 6045 and it is a POS

 

[Wes]

i can't tell what size bulkhead you have in your overflow but this might help.

Conservative estimates for bulkhead flow rates are as follows:

3/4 inch - 350 gallons per hour per bulkhead (unconfirmed).
1 inch - 600 Gallons per hour per bulkhead.
1.5 inch - 1,500 Gallons per hour per bulkhead.

here is a good link if you havn't read it.

http://www.dursostandpipes.com/FAQ/tabid/55/Default.aspx