I recently plumbed my oceanic 120 RR to an AMPmaster 3K. The AMPmaster is feeding a skimmer which goes back to the sump and the rest is to the 2 tank returns and a ¾â€
I had often filled my Oceanic 55+ right up to the center brace, it seemed the overflow I was using wasn't that adjustable and that was the lowest I could set it. I do notice algae build up and the surface flow is separated when it is touching the center. I think it would be better to allow the surface to remain undivided. As far as the ground, I suppose it won't be too much of a concern if it is off just a little, but if it continues to "shift" that could be disasterous. Is it on the "ground" as you have said? or is your floor needing support bracing? Rich
The tank is on a concrete basement floor that has tiling on top of it. I think the glue under the tiles may give a little thus creating the slight imbalance. If algae does become a problem the brace will be hard to clean with a magnetic cleaner so I'll have to stick my hands in, which is something I don't want to do. I guess an option is to increase the overflow slot length.
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The bottom of the glass brace on my Oceanic 200 is always submerged. Although algae does not seem to accumulate on the glass, coraline algae does. I need to scrape the glass with a razor blade about once a month.
By the way, if you have MH's positioned over brace (like I do), keeping the brace submerged will help to dissipate the heat.
the bottom of my brace is submerged as the alternating pumps hit it and has alge growing on it.. but the snails love to crawl up there and eat it! It looks cool as you can't see the brace most of the time but see snails crawling around..
I have allways filled my tanks up to the brace, this was to avoid the additional refractory index you mentioned. It also makes it esier to tell when to top it up because all i do is wait for the brace to dissapear and then refill untill i can see it again. I only have a 20gallon reef and IMO it pays to be that anal when it comes to tiny tanks.
I had the same problem with my custom built tank. I couldn't stand seeing the brace. If I slowed the Amp Master down then it would be ok, but that's not what I wanted either. I think the problem is in the overflow itself. I took a Dremel tool to the slots on the overflow making them wider and deeper.....this solved the problem.
The area under the tank does not appear all that different than the other areas of the tank, with the possible exception of less "shimmering". But as I said, it is not that noticable.
Does your tank look different under the brace say vs the two ends (without braces)? For example do you still get the neat shadow effect under the brace?
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