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howze01

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Upping the amount of GFO is fine but I would remove some of the chaeto. I think it's dieing because you had "x" amount of chaeto. The chaeto was used to "x" amount of phosphate. Once you added the GFO, your phosphate dropped. You still had the same amount of chaeto though so it wasn't getting what it is used to. If you're getting a reading of 0 on your phosphate test I would leave it the way it is though, just remove about 1/2 of the chaeto or so.

For the cyano, adding bacteria wouldn't hurt. Anything to try and outcompete the cyano is good.
 

Jarrett

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yea thats why i wanted to try a diff macro to see if it can out compete it. what type of bacteria could i add. that nitrifying bacteria in a bottle stuff i would assume? and tomorrow i am going to remove half the chaeto and go from there will see what happens.
 

howze01

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I haven't tried the Dr. Tims but I have heard very good stuff about about it. I have a newer tank that has been up for about 4 months now. Over the past few weeks i've been getting cyano but it's starting to clear up. I can say that flow was not a problem either. It's a 50g tank and it has 3 MP10w ES'.

If you go the Dr. Tims route let me know how it goes. I'm considering giving it a try as well
 

Jarrett

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ill let you know i plan on trying ti next week when i get on spring break that way i actually have time to do something to the tank lol. ill let you know how it goes. and i can find that bulb at home depot dubs?
 

skene

Winter. Time for Flakes..
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Queens
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I think what you guys are failing to understand is that flow directly on top of cyano starves it of nutrients so that it is unable to feed, and unable to continue growing. You can have 50 mp10s in your tank. If it's not flowing directly on top of where cyano is growing you'll still have cyano.
The same process with any pest algae. Remove as much as you can, then you starve the sucker by blowing off any debris that it can feed from.
 
Don't mean to high jack the thread but how do you guys feel about the whole photo period thing, should there be a day/night cycle when it comes to macro? I run mine 24/7 but I've been skeptical about any advantages plus it wouldn't hurt to cut back on some electrical usage lol

Jarret, I have plenty of macro, chaeto, caulerpa serrulata and caulerpa prolifera. I can definitely send you some through USPS
 

howze01

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I think what you guys are failing to understand is that flow directly on top of cyano starves it of nutrients so that it is unable to feed, and unable to continue growing. You can have 50 mp10s in your tank. If it's not flowing directly on top of where cyano is growing you'll still have cyano.
The same process with any pest algae. Remove as much as you can, then you starve the sucker by blowing off any debris that it can feed from.

That may be true. I've never known that was the reason that flow was supposed to help. I always thought that if you siphoned it off, more flow in that spot would keep it from settling again.

Starving it of nutrients is the same thing that adding the Dr. Tims would do. I would rather add some bacteria starter culture than to rearrange my powerheads. With your method, if I move my powerhead to add flow to an area, I may get where I just moved the powerhead from. A bacteria culture product is a whole tank solution that, to me, seems like a better option. Very often there's more than one way to solve a problem.
 

dubs

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bronx
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Changing flow in a tank is a bad idea if he has any anenome or animals that got used the flow been a certain way as we know those bad boy will juat take a nice walk and we know the result of that
 

Jarrett

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i think changing flow is useless, i don't even understand why people think that is even a cause or a solution. algae grows in high flow areas and low flow areas. my sand bed is covered in cyno and theirs enough flow over the top of it the whole length of the tank. i think the DR tims waste away is going to be my best option right now and if that doesn't work i might go bare bottom. i am running out of ideas so i dont know lol.
 

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