It has been over 3 years since I got rid of my tank. I finally decided to get back in the hobby and my wife is pushing me to have a tank again. The tank's dimensions will be 80 L by 24 D by 30 H with a full depth overflow box on one side. I would like to get a custom built stand and canopy similar to the one on the first page on Miracles Aquariums. Can anyone suggest me a local builder? Also I am open to suggestions regarding the equipment. I know that LEDs improved quite well from when I was in the hobby so I like the idea of going with them. All of the plumbing will be down the basement so I need a pump strong enough for the return (approximate 20-25 feet away). Thank you for your support.
Back in the hobby - need custom builder
- Thread starter crox99
- Start date
I would suggest the largest marine land tank they make. It's cheaper and better for the size your looking at. Drill it and closed loop it. 2 Hammer heads should be fine as a pumps. Refugium and a large sump. The rest is all a matter of money.
- Location
- Dingmans ferry PA
crox dont use an overflow box bro.drill it.pm jarrett shark he just had a stand built maybe he could help you out
- Location
- Kings Park, NY
They take up a lot of space both in the tank and behind it, depending on the manufacturer.
There is the risk of a flood should the power fail. Siphon breaks when the pump starts but doesn't always start again when the power to the pump returns. If I was going to run one (And I never would honestly) it would probably be the Lifereef unit.
Seriously, drill the tank. It's a 3 on a scale of 1-10 difficulty wise. If your not comfortable there are LOTS of guys on MR that have done it more than once. And most of them will do it for the cost of a beer or 2.
Do it once, do it right!
JMO
There is the risk of a flood should the power fail. Siphon breaks when the pump starts but doesn't always start again when the power to the pump returns. If I was going to run one (And I never would honestly) it would probably be the Lifereef unit.
Seriously, drill the tank. It's a 3 on a scale of 1-10 difficulty wise. If your not comfortable there are LOTS of guys on MR that have done it more than once. And most of them will do it for the cost of a beer or 2.
Do it once, do it right!
JMO
I think you guys are confusing the overflow, I don't think he?s saying a HOB style but single large one similar to the AGA drilled in the bottom.
Builders I?d say talk to Chris at Coast to Coast (NJ), 1000 Island (Brooklyn) or PM Richie (rkaragozler) as he just had someone re-build his 450.
For flow stick with either Tunze or Vortech, will use easily 1/3 the power and give you twice the flow of a closed loop with the added benefit you can move them to accommodate growth. I?m with bklynreef with the Hammerhead, will be more than enough for the return pump.
LEDs?.well they work very well but pre made lights for that size tank will cost you, if you?re handy with a soldering iron DIY will be a far cheaper choice.
Builders I?d say talk to Chris at Coast to Coast (NJ), 1000 Island (Brooklyn) or PM Richie (rkaragozler) as he just had someone re-build his 450.
For flow stick with either Tunze or Vortech, will use easily 1/3 the power and give you twice the flow of a closed loop with the added benefit you can move them to accommodate growth. I?m with bklynreef with the Hammerhead, will be more than enough for the return pump.
LEDs?.well they work very well but pre made lights for that size tank will cost you, if you?re handy with a soldering iron DIY will be a far cheaper choice.
Hi qy7400,
I am actually talking to Chris at Coast to Coast because I really like their products but I would like someone locallty that can help with the cabintry work. I was thinking of a closed-loop because the tank will only be viewed from the front and one side and the back and the other side are against the wall so the only place to put a Vortech is on the viewable end and it will obstruct the view.
- Location
- Dingmans ferry PA
you can either drill it high up and use a elbow facing up with a screen on top or drill it low and get a overflow box made up and make it like evey RR tank therer is.
- Location
- Dingmans ferry PA
i didnt read full depth overflow box my bad crox..
I don't think the Vortech motor is that much bigger than a bulkhead (unless you're going through the bottom for the CL) but if you went Tunze you could hide them in the rock easily or with the deco rock they have.
I remember 1000 Island building stands and there are also a few folks here that build cabinets so maybe start a thread look for a cabinet builder.
I wouldn't worry about the tank, leaky bulkhead.....
Before you drill the bottom calculate power use for a closed loop, my old tank was drilled and was going to use a Hammerhead. Pump was 389, drew 350W and moved 6000GPH. Tunze 6205 was a little more at 395 moved 5800 GPH but at 80% less power or about 45 a month in electric.
Before you drill the bottom calculate power use for a closed loop, my old tank was drilled and was going to use a Hammerhead. Pump was 389, drew 350W and moved 6000GPH. Tunze 6205 was a little more at 395 moved 5800 GPH but at 80% less power or about 45 a month in electric.
- Location
- Kings Park, NY
I don't know if custom builders do it but most tanks feature a tempted bottom for strength. You DON'T wAnt to drill a tempered bottom. Make sure you verify this with the tank builder. They are drilled before the tempering process is done.
Try john bueller for the build. Screen name bueller.
John hasdone two great and very different builds for me, and he is starting a 3rd soon.
He built the cover for my 120, check my thread and look at the end as I did not get the cover until the very end.
John hasdone two great and very different builds for me, and he is starting a 3rd soon.
He built the cover for my 120, check my thread and look at the end as I did not get the cover until the very end.
Chris @ CTC knows their craft very well. Some of the best silicone work I have ever seen. I have my tank from them drilled on the bottom, no problems. They included the durso plumbing as well. If I had to do it over again, I would've opted for an external overflow and dealt with the euro-bracing.
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