WTB Auto shut off valve for RODI or help me fix mine:)

[smoq]

WTB Check valve for RODI or help me fix mine

Ok, long story short. My RODI ASO valve were not shutting off the water after my drinking water container filled up so I tried to fix it (I did it before and it worked). The problem is when I unscrewed the four screws holding this thing together all the parts fell on the floor and now I don't know how to put it back. So please, if anyone has one and not using it I would like to buy one or if you have one one can post pictures of the inside parts that would be very helpful. Thanks

EDIT: After some reading and checking myself, it seems like the check valve is broken, not the ASO so I need the check valve Sorry for the confusion

 

[isgon26]

I have it.

 

[pweissma]

I switched over to using a permeate pump and don't use my ASO anymore. Do you want it? Don't know what the check valve is here.

 

[smoq]

I switched over to using a permeate pump and don't use my ASO anymore. Do you want it? Don't know what the check valve is here.

I started to read about the pump and it seems as a good idea. I checked spectrapure site and they have a pump kit for $124. A little bit pricey solution, but if it works better... Does it shut off water like ASO valve? That's what matters to me as without ASO valve I need to manually open and close water to fill the RO tank.

 

[pweissma]

A permeate pump is the way to go if you have a pressurized storage tank. The tanks fill faster and with a lot more water. I don't think too many people in the hobby use one so permeate pumps are not so popular. Yes, it does shut off the water like an ASO.
$124 is more than I paid. I would guess around $40. You don't need a kit, just the device. They are rated with a max GPD so keep that in mind when shopping. They are plumbed differently than ASO valves. I'll post some manufacturer links with diagrams later when I have a chance.

 

[smoq]

Thank you for your trouble. If you can post that I would really appreciate it

 

[pweissma]

Sorry it's taken me forever to post this. Here's some links to AquaTec:

http://www.aquatec.com/images/IMI-106c.pdf

http://www.aquatec.com/permeate.htm

http://www.aquatec.com/images/FAQforPERMEATE.pdf

 

[smoq]

Thank you very much, especially for the hookup diagram, it helps a lot. I've been reading the faq and they suggested leaving the auto shutt off valve so there's no tds creep on the membrane. What do you think about that? If I should, I would have to change that too.

 

[pweissma]

Thank you very much, especially for the hookup diagram, it helps a lot. I've been reading the faq and they suggested leaving the auto shutt off valve so there's no tds creep on the membrane. What do you think about that? If I should, I would have to change that too.

Yes, that's what I did. My only lingering question is where to put the DI membrane. It's not in the diagrams. I'm storing RODI water rather than storing RO water and having it pass through the DI after the tank.

I have mine set up under my kitchen sink with a 2.5 gal tank. You're welcome to come over and take a look if it would be helpful.

 

[smoq]

Check this out, there's a diagram for RO/DI setup, I just found it.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?url=...com/manuals/PRINTER_FRIENDLY/PPRFK-MANUAL.pdf

 

[pweissma]

Good stuff. The second diagram with the DI and line to aquarium stores RO water for drinking and the ice maker. The stored water though is blocked by a check valve from going to the aquarium so this isn't a diagram of what we want. I prefer drinking nyc tap water and don't have an ice maker so I don't really need RO water. I use RODI water for humidifiers and our steamer and suppose RO would be just as good but not worth the added complexity.