pauliwalnuts

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Found this thing around somewhere on the net, can't remember where. Lol...
Love the quality, controls, and the whole modular thing (just awesome). PAR values are at levels where most of us maintaining SPS prefer as well. They do consume plenty of electricity, as most good LED light fixtures for SPS tanks do. At least they don't emit excess heat on to the surface of the water, helping us getting rid of our chillers.
Would love to hear what you guys think about them, like or dislike.
http://www.pacific-sun.eu/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=63&Itemid=71
 
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Ok I saw them now. But I see from your 'about me' that you have a 125 so I don't see why you would need to go with those. Like I said, I personally run 3 120w black pythons from pacific sun on my 210 and they're only at 75% power and they're doing great, everything in my tank opens great and I don't really have much in terms of SPS so I don't see a need to run them at the full 100%. I used a kill-a-watt meter on them and at 75% it is very accurate in terms of wattage consumption, max 120w at 100% and at 75% it uses exactly 90w per unit. So it's considerably lower than having 3-250w like I used to have. The fixtures you chose are pretty nice but I don't really understand the need for t5s when the LEDs are strong enough on they're own and you can turn the LEDs any color temp you want them. I feel like they just consume extra electricity but thats just my opinion
 

pauliwalnuts

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Here are the PAR readings for some of the other fixtures they make.http://www.pacific-sun.eu/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53&Itemid=61
The ones you have aren't even listed. But still on the 160watt panels, I'm not impressed at all with the PAR values. Btw, my current tank is a 150G 60''x24''x25'' with two CoralVue lumenbright large reflectors with 400watt Radium bulbs. PAR values in the upper midd section of the tank are around 550, but my tank has mostly SPS coral.
How do you like the build quality of the fixture ?
 
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The build of the fixture I think is great, I like the paint job on it, looks very durable, it's kinda of like car paint. The fixtures aren't as big as I thought they would be either, they're pretty compact and they have 2 huge fans built in that keep it very cool. I was looking at the PAR tables and I don't really understand the chart too well but aren't those PAR readings from 29" depth with the strongest being right under the fixture and the other colors being the spread of the light at 39"? I don't think that the mountain thing is meant to represent the PAR reading at different depths I think it's all at 29" with the strongest PAR being directly under the fixture which gives you a high PAR area of about 15" that is if I'm reading the chart correctly
 
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The "mountain" is just there to help visualize the PAR concentration under the light. According to the graph the actual 200 PAR area is about 10" x 20" (if each square is 20x20 cm) and then it drops pretty quickly. At 29" 200 par is about the same as a good 400W halide. Considering most tanks aren't that deep and that there would be at least a little spread as it reaches the 29" mark you can assume that in shallower tanks the higher PAR footprint will be smaller.
 
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You should always take factory PAR readings with a grain of salt. The tests are done under optimal conditions and I would think by now somewhere on the interwebs people have posted their own tests. I'm not saying they are completely wrong but I wouldn't be surprised if people were getting different results in their tanks than those posted on the company website.
 

pauliwalnuts

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Elizabeth, NJ
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I still haven't found one place that sells these units, seems as if they're only available in Germany and Australia. Also tried looking on the web to see if anyone is actually has posted anything about them with no results.
Hey Reefs4life, where did you purchase your units from ?
 

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