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Galantra

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I wanted some input on what kind of Leds lights (diy or fixtures ) that would work for my 36X36X27 cube. I am looking to keep an SPS dominant tank.; and just unsure what I should go with. I know I want a good spread within the tank. I really would like to read some choices on what I can do.

My current plans was to use Orphek LED lighting Products
I was going to use DIF-100 ? 100 watts with a 120lens and 2 Pars 38s but unsure if I needed more lighting. I would like a dimmable unit which this doesn't provide that function. Help me out
 
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It would be more effective and cheaper to go with the DIF-100 at 16k-18k and a DIF-30 in the multi-chip blue/UV. 2 of the PAR-38s are going to cost more than a single 30 and you would get much better color and spread with the 30. The UV diodes throw some amazing color. Plus at only 130W you would be running the equivalent of around 600W of halide.
 
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As long as you mount them lower with the 120 optics it should be more than enough light and you can use the 30 like an actinic for dawn/dusk. They can't be dimmed but if there's an issue with intensity you can raise them up a little. I had to play with my PR-25s a little until I got a height where corals on the bottom were'nt getting too much light.

I think they are working on dimmable units as we speak but I have no idea on when they would be available.
 
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The RB seems to have crashed, so I will repeat what I said here again.

Thanks for the invite to dicuss my lights.

For SPS tank, dimming is a must
For 36" x 36" surface area, there is not a single light in the market that can cover it properly unless DIY.
Therefore, I suggest to use 3 pcs of a bar type fixtures. Each fixture can run from 54W to 60W of Cree lights.
With this setup, you can decide to add more power or other colors like the Ecotech Radion or like my Perfect Spectrum PAR38 for fuller spectrum of colors. Ecotech claims it's better for the coral while I think it's better for our viewing pleasure.
The drivers are compatible to Profilux or Apex. If you do not own one, there is a dimmable remote controller.

This is how they look on a 18 x 18 x 18

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51751091@N08/6169719543/in/photostream
http://www.flickr.com/photos/51751091@N08/6169731155/in/photostream

To run 64W+ on 36", I think there's a need to add heat sink with fan. The ones in the pics do not need to fans because they are running at < 30W per 20"
 
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You figure your tank is 1' less on both sides and with the new higher kelvin multi-chip units that have the white and blue on the same diode a single DIF-100 with 120 optics should be fine. If you wanted to add more blue or UV for color or as a moon light you could add the smaller ML-7 type bulbs with just the blue and UV diodes later on. The 100 has a slightly higher output than a 400W halide so it would be more than capable.
 
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So you are suggesting 3 of the 60w fixtures would give me the proper coverage on a 36x36 but may need to add more lighting?


Going with the design I was talking, do not need to add more lighting in terms of intensity and or power, in fact you most likely need to dim them.

The flexibility of adding future LEDs is for esthetics for many people is starting to complain about royal blue and cool white being too plain.
 

Galantra

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You figure your tank is 1' less on both sides and with the new higher kelvin multi-chip units that have the white and blue on the same diode a single DIF-100 with 120 optics should be fine. If you wanted to add more blue or UV for color or as a moon light you could add the smaller ML-7 type bulbs with just the blue and UV diodes later on. The 100 has a slightly higher output than a 400W halide so it would be more than capable.
so since this unit is non dimmable and higher than 400w halide would i be concern a bit about aclimating to these leds?
 
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Huntington
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If the intensity is a concern just start the light higher up and lower it until you get the results you want. With the depth you have you should get the necessary PAR down to the bottom of the tank allowing SPS to thrive anywhere. The light produced by the DIF units is almost indistinguishable from a halide in that you'll get the same kind of shimmer and visible intensity but the upside of the LEDs efficiency and output.
 

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