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DaRealDvs1 said:
But T~
I noticed that an "in-sump" skimmer will not run it's best with the fluctuation of the water level in your sump.
With a constant water level, my skimmer produces way more.

If you have an overflow in your sump, put the skimmer before the overflow and you won't have this problem. The water level in the area before the overflow should never change. Use the float switches in the area after the overflow.

One thing I should mention is that if you have a non-internal overflow in the main tank, you will need a third float switch to eliminate one other flood scenario. I can describe this in more detail if necessary.
 

cali_reef

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masterswimmer said:
Pierce,
The timer will not prevent the switch from fusing closed. However, it will limit the amount of topoff water delivered to the system, thereby averting a crash. It is used as a failsafe.

True, it is a fail safe, but a fail safe does not fix the part that will fail. I always eliminate failure point(s) before placing additional fail safe protection. The amount of time a timer will allow water flow will have to pretty close, this timer will also cause a greater sump water level fluctuation before allowing a "top off" session. I personally don't like to restrict the time of day when the sump gets topped off.
 

cali_reef

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Reefer420 said:
ICali- I am not sure what you mean by "Two of the same switch or even with a timer will not prevent the switch from fusing close. You need to use this micro switch to control a relay, turning on the top off water powerhead or solenoid valve."

This one is the "relayed" version:
relayedswitch.jpg


IMO, this guys makes junk, you can't make any troubleshooting or repairs because he glued the relay housing(PVC pieces) shut.

I built my own with a low float switch to trigger the relay on(to turn on a powerhead or a solenoid valve) and a high float switch to trigger the relay's release, a third higher switch can be wired in to cut the power to the relay. A red LED indicates the relay's operation.

My fail safe is the limited fresh water quantity, 30 gallons of fresh water in a 600 gallon system does not do too much damage but still allows me to go away for 4-5 days.
 

DevIouS

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Josh said:
If you have an overflow in your sump, put the skimmer before the overflow and you won't have this problem. The water level in the area before the overflow should never change. Use the float switches in the area after the overflow.
One thing I should mention is that if you have a non-internal overflow in the main tank, you will need a third float switch to eliminate one other flood scenario. I can describe this in more detail if necessary.

True..

My problem is that my sump is pretty small, so the only area I can place my EuroReef is the middle section......where evaporation affects the water level.:(
My doser helps out alot, but I do plan to add a float switch on my return pump section. It should be a whole lot better, as I currently have to adjust the volume of my doser due to the weather changes.

Where would you put the 3rd switch? In the main tank?
Thanks dude~
 
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DaRealDvs1 said:
True..

My problem is that my sump is pretty small, so the only area I can place my EuroReef is the middle section......where evaporation affects the water level.:(
My doser helps out alot, but I do plan to add a float switch on my return pump section. It should be a whole lot better, as I currently have to adjust the volume of my doser due to the weather changes.

Where would you put the 3rd switch? In the main tank?
Thanks dude~

The main tank is a good idea, but normally the problem lies with the overflow siphon being lost. When that happens the entire overflow cup fills up. Your return will continue to function and once the top off comes on it will overfill the tank (with fresh water no less!).
 

masterswimmer

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cali_reef said:
True, it is a fail safe, but a fail safe does not fix the part that will fail.

The digital timer fail safe is to prevent flooding. It is not meant to fix a fused switch.


cali_reef said:
I always eliminate failure point(s) before placing additional fail safe protection.

I also try to eliminate failure points. The digital timer is a redundancy.


cali_reef said:
The amount of time a timer will allow water flow will have to pretty close, this timer will also cause a greater sump water level fluctuation before allowing a "top off" session.

As mentioned in my descriptive post regarding this fail safe, I only allow the timer to run for 1 minute, 6 times a day. The sump fluctation can only evaporate for four hours before the timer allows the float switch to call for topoff. The system evaporates only two gallons per day maximum (over two years of history with this setup). This translates into .33 gallons in a 100 gallon system every four hours (2 gallons per day / 6 cycles of the timer = .333 gallons every four hrs). I fail to see how this cycled fluctuation has any negative impact on the system.


cali_reef said:
I personally don't like to restrict the time of day when the sump gets topped off.

Six cycles per day (3am, 7am, 11am, 3pm, 7pm & 11pm) doesn't qualify for restrictive in my opinion.

I've had great success with this system, as I'm sure you have with yours. It appears you don't subscribe to the theory that there is more than one way to succeed in this hobby. Or if you do, then maybe I haven't explained this clearly.

swimmer
 

masterswimmer

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Reefer420 said:
Masterswimmer- are you talking about the 16g having 2g of topoff a day??? I think mine only does 2g a week! btw- can you give a link to the timer you use, thats a great idea!

Reefer, :lol: I have two tanks running right now. Only one of them is the 16 gallon. I also have a 75, with a 15 fuge and 15 sump (only has ~7 gallons (the rest is for overflow capacity)). This is the one with 2 gallons evap./day.

This is the timer I use. It's an Intermatic Digital Timer. I get them at HD for $20:

intermaticdigitaltimer.jpg


swimmer
 

cali_reef

Fish and Coral Killer
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Russ,
I am only trying to say the timer does not fix his problem with a faulty switch, never said your timer method will not work. IMO the timer will only prevent his problem from escalating but it does not address the problem or eliminating it all together. Don't want someone to read this post to think a timer will solve all the top off problems.


masterswimmer said:
Pierce,
The timer will not prevent the switch from fusing closed. However, it will limit the amount of topoff water delivered to the system, thereby averting a crash. It is used as a failsafe. When the timer is 'off' if the switch fuses in the closed position it won't complete the circuit. This doesn't negate the need for a quality float switch, but it does prevent the catastrophic accident.

Russ


cali_reef said:
True, it is a fail safe, but a fail safe does not fix the part that will fail. I always eliminate failure point(s) before placing additional fail safe protection. The amount of time a timer will allow water flow will have to pretty close, this timer will also cause a greater sump water level fluctuation before allowing a "top off" session. I personally don't like to restrict the time of day when the sump gets topped off.


masterswimmer said:
I've had great success with this system, as I'm sure you have with yours. It appears you don't subscribe to the theory that there is more than one way to succeed in this hobby. Or if you do, then maybe I haven't explained this clearly.

swimmer

I do believe there are many ways to do things, I just don't think a timer should be proscribed as a fix without having more redundancies in the float switch in this case.
 

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