- Location
- Staten Island
manifold question.
- Thread starter Mark2480
- Start date
Are you going to have clearance to turn that valve on top? Also is everything that you are connecting to it use the same size barb? The one I am making one outlet is going to be a 1/2" push fitting for BRS dual reactor and the other a 3/4" barb for a UV. You may also want to consider the angles of the hoses/attachments that will go onto it.
That will work just fine. I actually did the same thing but instead of using a T fitting I used a Y fitting. Either way it will get the job done. What return pump are you using? Also for the threaded fittings, save yourself the headache and skip the teflon tape and use the proper pvc thread paste/sealant. You can find it at lowes or home depot, almost guaranteed not to leak.
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- Location
- merrick, ny
imo at the end on the right side make the extension a little longer. down the road if you want to add something the way you have it you cant cut an add another fitting.
No its not permanent at all. This is what I used, you can find it at lowes.
Attachments
- Location
- Staten Island
When I put it together I will have the ball valve facing the front, the barbed fittings are 1/2 inch right now but I also have a brs reactor so was going to make the last one a push fitting. Pvc paste nice I didn't think of that, thanks.
- Location
- Connecticut
Looks good.
I would not permanently cap the end of the manifold because I am never sure if I am adding more devices to the system.
I would not permanently cap the end of the manifold because I am never sure if I am adding more devices to the system.
- Location
- Staten Island
- Location
- NY
On the left (feed side) you would make the manifold more efficient with a wye as opposed to a 'T'. Also, if you don't have a ball valve above the 'T' then the path of least resistance for the flow will be straight up to your return and you'll get very little flow through the manifold. You'll need to restrict the return above the 'T' to force flow through the manifold.
Russ
Russ
- Location
- Staten Island
Yea I planned on having a ball valve passed the manifold to restrict some flow but could also just as we'll use a Y instead of a T. Here's another question, the sump I'm using is a trigger systems elite can I also feed the fuge off of the return or is that splitting the return two many times. I know it's a dumb question but figured I'd ask. As for a return pump would a jebao 1200 be enough to handle that, it's a 180 gallon tank.
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- Location
- Glendale,Queens.
From my own personal experience the easiest way to build a manifold is to have the tank and sump in place and build the manifold while all the equipment is in place that way you know where you want each valve to be so your not doing it twice cause something is in the way
- Location
- Glendale,Queens.
- Location
- Staten Island
Yea will build every thing once tank is in place for sure. Just trying to get everything ready. Thanks for the pic, it helps, always better to see it other than in my head.
- Location
- Glendale,Queens.
Anytime bro..it took me 5 trips to Home Depot and 3tries to get it right..lmao!but I'm extremely happy with it
Thanks just grabbed some.
- Location
- New Milford, CT
I wouldn't cap the end. You never know if you are going to want to expand at some point. I would use a threaded female adapter and a threaded cap for easy expansion.
Are those Asashi valves? I am so happy NOT to see HD valves. Good choices all around!
Are those Asashi valves? I am so happy NOT to see HD valves. Good choices all around!
- Location
- New Milford, CT
Oh wait, they are spears, well still an A+ in my book over HD or Lowe's valves! Get em'
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