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Hey guys, so lately I've been having some pretty bad luck with water spillage due to temporary power outages (figures right when I start nursing school). Anyways, I've been considering check valves since I've had them in the past but I know they're not all that reliable and looked down upon in the saltwater hobby. I thinking of a siphon break, like a 1/8" hole at the water line, however, from manifold to return output there is a solid 25 ft amount of tubing so would that tiny hole really work in breaking that gigantic siphon? I know it's kind of stupid question but I have to resolve the issue this weekend so I can focus on my studies.
 
MI_true-union-swing-check-valve_7__34153.1415723758.386.513.jpg

I was looking to get this check valve. It has union fittings this way if I ever have to clean it, it's easily accessible
 

lnevo

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There's no reason for a check valve and there's no reason for a siphon break. But to answer your question yes, if any air gets in it should break the siphon. It's alot easier for air to be pulled through then to maintain the suction for the siphon.

The reason there is no need is you should have enough capacity in your sump to handle the flow back when power is off. If there isn't then your returns are too low in the tank and should be raised. What happens if the check valve does fail or if the siphon break gets clogged by a snail or salt creep or what not. There's no issues to having these and multiple redundancies are the way to go of course, but the system should be designed where it's not needed. A small change in your returns should alleviate the issue.
 

ReefDiver

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there's no reason for a check valve and there's no reason for a siphon break. But to answer your question yes, if any air gets in it should break the siphon. It's alot easier for air to be pulled through then to maintain the suction for the siphon.

The reason there is no need is you should have enough capacity in your sump to handle the flow back when power is off. If there isn't then your returns are too low in the tank and should be raised. What happens if the check valve does fail or if the siphon break gets clogged by a snail or salt creep or what not. There's no issues to having these and multiple redundancies are the way to go of course, but the system should be designed where it's not needed. A small change in your returns should alleviate the issue.

+1
 

edd

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There's no reason for a check valve and there's no reason for a siphon break. But to answer your question yes, if any air gets in it should break the siphon. It's alot easier for air to be pulled through then to maintain the suction for the siphon.

The reason there is no need is you should have enough capacity in your sump to handle the flow back when power is off. If there isn't then your returns are too low in the tank and should be raised. What happens if the check valve does fail or if the siphon break gets clogged by a snail or salt creep or what not. There's no issues to having these and multiple redundancies are the way to go of course, but the system should be designed where it's not needed. A small change in your returns should alleviate the issue.

+2 but the syphon break hole will aid as backup. i put mine slightly below water level so you don't get splashing noise. i have a 300 set up like this an drains down less than 10gal when return is off.
good luck in nursing school. my daughter went to mountain side in nj, graduated 3 yrs ago. was working as soon as she got her license.
 
How is it plumbed that it is draining that much? I have a tiny sump on my 50g that runs high normally but when power goes out it fills nearly to the top but never over.

It's plumbed from the basement to the living room and I have a 75G sump. The plumbing is about 25 feet and the returns are set about 1/5 into the tank because I like to use them for additional flow. I know I can them up but I like the way they're pointing for flow.

@edd: Thank you, I know it is challenging but the reward will be worth the struggle.
 

Dk638

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I use the clear check valve, works fine. I really don't need it cause my sump can handle the volume but I like that when I shut off my main pump the water stays in the dt. I installed a drain between the check and the dt which I use to drain water into the sump when I do water changes.
 

evoIX_Reefer

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It's plumbed from the basement to the living room and I have a 75G sump. The plumbing is about 25 feet and the returns are set about 1/5 into the tank because I like to use them for additional flow. I know I can them up but I like the way they're pointing for flow.

@edd: Thank you, I know it is challenging but the reward will be worth the struggle.

Just something I was told before. "Return shouldn't be used for flow. That's the job of your powerheads."

I like others keep mine up far enough to the top to leave space in my sump.
 

albano

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...they will go bad after a year or more ....
+1... They will fail! Even if you clean them every few months, I'm not sure that I'd trust them

Just something I was told before. "Return shouldn't be used for flow. That's the job of your powerheads."

???? I have used returns for flow for 40 yrs... My 450g DT has multiple returns for flow (sea swirls)...they are set high enough that the sump can handle all that is siphoned back.
 

evoIX_Reefer

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That's cool. just opinion.

In the OPs reason for maintaining his locline below the threshold his sump can hold, he uses it for flow.

I use it as "flow" but not my main flow or to set it to a point where you decide to set it to an inappropriate level.

I use it to agitate the water surface and aim at a possible dead area.

Your swirls are to "rotate flow pattern". Not necessarily for flow for your corals. It's probably not pushing out 2000-5000gph, that's your powerheads job or possibly your closed loop system.

If your using a huge pump for flow then things like wattage output of using a big enough pump just for flow when powerheads are more efficient. Cost if that is an issue if that huge pump goes out is way more than a single powerhead failure.
 
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