• Why not take a moment to introduce yourself to our members?

Josh

in the coral sea...
Vendor
Location
Union Square, NY
Rating - 100%
90   0   0
Some of you may laugh, but I am very close to ordering equipment for my new tank. I am shooting for a 100-120g shallow tank, 2 250w w VHOs for actinics and probably using 2 vortechs to mix everthing up. I want about 1" minimum sand maybe 2" with 100+ lbs of live rock. No idea on skimmer or sump yet. Stand to be build by jhale.

Right now, electrically, I am dedicating 2 20A breakers for tank connections.

Seeking advice.

Where do I get my tank (glass cages?)
What sort of sump
Skimmer: Skimmer crew help me out here.

Plan is to keep SPS and LPS with some zoas, low fish load.

Need recs on heater/chiller, RODI, etc.

I kid you not, this project is now underway,

-Josh
 

DevIouS

- Untitled -
Location
Da B - X
Rating - 100%
108   0   0
Congrats!:party:

I'm one of the reefers who doesn't have the best equipment, but from my homework:

I would try T5's instead of the VHO's.
Glass Cages: 1/2 ass work & there are some complaints.
Sump: biggest you can fit under that JHale edition tank:)

Rich & Cali can recommend the skimmer. They can probably sell you one too.:D

Deltec?:scratch:

R/O DI: People have given great results on the AquaSafe systems on eBay.
Heater: Finnex or Ebo Jager.
Chiller: Man.....I'm still working on 2 clip on fans.:happysad:

As everyone knows, Vortechs are great if you get the working model.
I think that's been taken care of.
Excellent flow.
Mine stops every so often....but it's been holding up.
 
Last edited:
D

DEEPWATER

Guest
Rating - 100%
66   0   0
Hey Josh
whats up .


Ok ,for lights im sure everyone is going to say Lumenarc minis ,if you are going retro with 2x t5s URI super actinics

for your tank ,if you want ,I can send you to a place here in brklyn ,probably coast you about $500 to make a 120 gal tank with extrenal over flow

Sump ,,they can build one for you ,or some handy member might be able to take on that task

Skimmer ..we all know Deltec take the prize .,maybe a ASM g3 or 4 recirculating .

hope im on track :D

Ronen
 

pecan2phat

Professional Commuter
Location
Wallingford, CT
Rating - 100%
85   0   0
Hi Josh,

I would look into tanks made by Miracle Aquariums which quality surpasses Glass Cages by ten fold (I own a Glass Cages tank). This will even give you the option of having an external back overflow which would truely free up valuable real estate within the tank. Standard 120 (48x24x24) would probably be easier to light unless you decide on a cube like cali-reef's 140g (36x36x26). Cubes are really cool and you can get away from the traditional canopy look, hang one luminarc III to light up the entire tank, then have Jon build a matching wood facade open on the top and bottom to surround the LIII if you don't like the aluminum look. Cali riveted an aluminum bracket on the right & left side of the LIII to attach a pair of 24" T5 actinics for dusk to dawn purposes. I would go with a 140g cube with an external overflow over my GC 120g if I had to do it over again especially if this was a coral dominated tank. Much more possibilty for aquascaping and growout. Also with Miracle, they actually use Starphire brand low iron glass vs GC's no name LIG. There is a slight difference when i looked at cali's tank before it was filled in comparison to generic LIG. GC's LIG still had some green tinge when you looked through the side of the glass while Starphire brand had a blue tinge. I guess every little bit counts. I don't know what Miracle's upgrade to Starphire was for cali but GC's upgrade to starphire for 3 sides on a 120g was $150.
If you want to stay with a traditional 120, I would also suggest looking at Oceanic's new Tech Series tank. The largest that they make in that series is a 120g. Definitely nice vs any regular manufactured tank including GC's tanks. The amenities were LIG front pane, narrow/wide center back overflow box, ABS splash shield around the inside perimeter of the top (like euro-bracing), no center brace, clean polished glass edges and black glass for the back pane.
Most hobbiest tend to save on the tank purchase which is a knee jerk reaction but after you've been around the block a few times, you come to realize that the tank is the most likely piece of equipment that you will have for the longest time barring up/down sizing. So initial investment for a tank built right or a tank that is eye pleasing or a tank that is form functional "is" worth 3x the amount of what you can get "a tank" for, IMHO.

Skimmer is another debateable issue. I always like to go a little bigger then manufacturer's recommendation and I do like the Deltecs & H&S skimmers though I would look into the H&S first due to the better pricing and thicker acrylic construction. As with either, look into the models that start with an eheim pump vs aquabee. Consensus has shown that people eventually upgrade to a larger model that employs an eheim pump.

Since your in an apartment, I'm guessing that you want everything under the stand so if per say you went with a 120g, your sump options are limited. I personally use a 30g long under my 120g but my return pump is external of the stand. I can fit a CA, large carbon and a medium phosban reactor inside the stand but my AP702 sits outside. When I ran my AP600, that was inside the stand. Possibly a 29g would work out better for you that way you can have enough horizontal space to plumb an external return pump without taking width space if you were to drill the sump on the front panel. If you go with a submersible return pump, then by all means, go with a 30g long vs a 29g. Don't attempt a 30g or 40g breeder if you plan to place equipment under the stand, the breeder @ 18" just takes up too much space width wise.

As with heaters and chillers, I would recommend that you run them via a controller whether it be a Ranco, Aqua Controller or Reefkeeper.
I use the Via Aqua titanium heaters in my 120g (2x250w), I've used Won, Ebo-Jager in the past and once a Won digital failed on my nano tank. I would look into the Finnex titanium brand also. With chillers, stay away from Pacific Coast only because of their flow restriction. I have a 1/4 hp PCI CL-650. Nice unit with 1/3 hp rated BTU on a 1/4 hp unit, encased in plastic, unit never failed but again: big time flow restriction! Stick with the proven Aqua Logic brand, american made and has an excellent track record. Reason why I didn't initially buy this was because I didn't do enough research, hoping the import brands were quieter (which they might be), didn't like the way every old Aqua Logic that I saw was always rusting somewhere and size.

Josh, hope this helps and stimulates you into thinking of endless options.
 
Last edited:

pecan2phat

Professional Commuter
Location
Wallingford, CT
Rating - 100%
85   0   0
Also :)

I use & like the Aqua FX Barracuda RO/DI unit. They now have models that have a dual chloramine blasters if your water supply contains chloramine.
http://www.aquariumwaterfilters.com...age&product_id=38&option=com_phpshop&Itemid=1
I do use the ebay Aqua Safe RO unit for house drinking water purposes though.

Vortechs are nice but until they come out with a variable controller, I just stick to my controllable Tunze Streams. If you don't like the obtrusiveness of the Streams, then consider having your tank built with closed loop drilled holes. When my 120g was a reef :( , I ran a closed loop with 2 holes drilled on the back panel for drains, returned via a Reeflo Dart going through an Ocean Motions 4-Way over the top of the tank. There was also two 3/4" SeaSwirls for the return flow. Since all corals are gone, I shut down the closed loop and have two 6000 Streams on a multi-controller for flow. These Streams are hooked up to an APS 1200 volt battery backup for power outages.

My lighting consist of two PFO parallel reflectors bolted to fit 46.5" VHO tubes. I went with these for the ease of applying VHOs as the actinic supplements, the reflectors have built in mounts. At the time T5s were not mainstream yet and there were no real single reflectors for VHO tubes on the market. I did go with moguls for the diversity of bulbs also. So the lighting consisted of two Ice Cap 250w electronic ballasts, two 250w XM 10Ks, two URI 110w 46.5" super actinics on an Ice Cap 660 ballast.
What I would try next on the same tank is: Coravue minis OR
dual SLS Lumen Max II on IceCap 250w electronics and two 54w URI T5 actinics on an IceCap 430 electronic.

Phil might be able to tweak by with no chiller on one MH but once you utilize two, that tank temp will go over 82 in the summer time even with room air on.
 

jhale

ReefsMagazine!
Location
G.V NYC
Rating - 100%
52   0   0
tank: as far as height I thought I would like my 20" high tank, I don't.
that 4" makes a big difference.

sump: do you want a fuge in the sump? this will also determine the size.
I have a 55 under my tank, I like the 4' length, but not the height of it.

skimmer: deltec? let cali and rich pick one for you.

heat: ebo jaggers on a controller. don't bother with anything else.

chiller: I have not seen one in person, but I liked how the Prime chillers looked. made in the USA and they are compact.

lights: mini luminarcs for spread, not sure of the bulbs, I can't even decide on my own tank what I want. the new store in greenwich has some crazy italian lighting fixtures. take a look at the pics, as a hanging light with no hood they would look great.

also leave room in the budget for a controller, either the ACIII pro for you, or the new Profilux II Plus. as a computer geek you will love the features.
 

cali_reef

Fish and Coral Killer
Rating - 97.3%
36   1   0
I think you have the tank option covered pretty well;). You are welcome to come by and check out the following tanks in my place; AGA 180, Glasscages 300 with LIG, Miracle in Glass 140 Cube, and another canadian tank who's name I can't think of.

Is this going to be a SPS tank or a mixed reef? lighting options are so vast and good right now, very hard to pick a "best" lighting scheme.

I also have Deltec, H&S, and a BK you can see before you order a $1,000 skimmer for your tank:lol2:.
 

Sponsor Reefs

We're a FREE website, and we exist because of hobbyists like YOU who help us run this community.

Click here to sponsor $10:


Top