My Dilemma... How to get it down?
- Thread starter Dre
- Start date
Hey Dre
What's your alk and cal at?
What do you use for stabilizing alk and cal?
More c02 = less ph.
So cut down on water surface movement as well as fresh air around tank. Cut down on any splashing or bubbles going on in sump, like where the water from tank enters.
If you can cover tank and or sump that will help too. Keep an eye on temps if you do
What's your alk and cal at?
What do you use for stabilizing alk and cal?
More c02 = less ph.
So cut down on water surface movement as well as fresh air around tank. Cut down on any splashing or bubbles going on in sump, like where the water from tank enters.
If you can cover tank and or sump that will help too. Keep an eye on temps if you do
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Usually when cal goes up, alk goes down. And when alk goes up or down, so does ph. With that said your alk is too low. Raising your alk could/should make ph go up. Which is not what you want to do but alk is to low so start there. When mag is out of range your cal and alk will swing around, and could do weird things like send ph out of whack.
Try to get your cal up closer to 480, and alk at least 8. Do the things I mentioned above about water and air movement, check and if need be adjust your magnesium, and give it a couple of days then re-test ph.
What do you dose with?
Try to get your cal up closer to 480, and alk at least 8. Do the things I mentioned above about water and air movement, check and if need be adjust your magnesium, and give it a couple of days then re-test ph.
What do you dose with?
First thing you should do is cut down on surface water movement in tank and sump.
Macros that grow in fuge consume magnesium. With regular water changes with a quality salt that's usually not an issue. Magnesium is also much more stable than cal and alk, but a good idea to check it and rule that out as a possible problem
Macros that grow in fuge consume magnesium. With regular water changes with a quality salt that's usually not an issue. Magnesium is also much more stable than cal and alk, but a good idea to check it and rule that out as a possible problem
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- Location
- Queens/Flushing/Whitestone/NYC
What are you using to check PH? How accurate is it, try with another kit? Also, when you first realize ph was high, were there any issue with your corals?
- Location
- Ronkonkoma, NY
Absolutely, if it is still high with a different test check the PH of your make-up water. I am pretty sure your test kit or probe is off
The Meat, alk at 6 is not bad at all if alk 7.5 is natural sea water. As a matter of fact some folks have theirs way south of 6 even at 3 and don't even know it. pH at 9-10 is very bad for Lps. Not so much for sps.
I don't recommend using liquid kits to test pH. I don't use them anymore for obvious reasons. My probe is good and yes I noticed some corals close shop about 2 weeks ago. That's why I stared checking off
I don't recommend using liquid kits to test pH. I don't use them anymore for obvious reasons. My probe is good and yes I noticed some corals close shop about 2 weeks ago. That's why I stared checking off
It is widely proven, though not fully understood why, that in a reef tank, as compared to the real ocean, that ph and alkaline should be on the higher side of things to see a thriving coral population.
Andy makes a good point, check your probe and test kits. They seem highly suspect here.
Not all corals react the same, or at the same rate to parameters that are out of whack. Dif corals are more or less sensitive, and sensitive to dif parameters. Would suspect that with your alkaline that low your coraline and tenui is being decimated.
The simplest and most natural remedy for a long term fix is always best. Like water and air movement. But in extremes, or when necessary an additive like vinegar or baking soda is needed. In your case, and I don't know your demands, a calcium reactor might be the way to go because long term use of calcium reactors normally lead to lower ph issues, which in your set up seems to be a desirable effect.
Here's a good article http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/6/chemistry
Another good long term remedy for your set up worth investigating is running ozone
Andy makes a good point, check your probe and test kits. They seem highly suspect here.
Not all corals react the same, or at the same rate to parameters that are out of whack. Dif corals are more or less sensitive, and sensitive to dif parameters. Would suspect that with your alkaline that low your coraline and tenui is being decimated.
The simplest and most natural remedy for a long term fix is always best. Like water and air movement. But in extremes, or when necessary an additive like vinegar or baking soda is needed. In your case, and I don't know your demands, a calcium reactor might be the way to go because long term use of calcium reactors normally lead to lower ph issues, which in your set up seems to be a desirable effect.
Here's a good article http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/6/chemistry
Another good long term remedy for your set up worth investigating is running ozone
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Although somethings are proven that doesn't mean it works for everyone. Peanut butter kill people each year. The probe is good and i have two alk test kits. And I know corals react different, I observe my corals that's why I knew something was wrong. I'll take notes and hope it comes down. Last night pH went over 10.00 and the tank didn't crash. Don't think a cal reactor is necessary at this time. I'll read the article, thanks..
- Location
- Bethpage,NY
Time to recalibrate
Good call guys,the prode needed to be calibrated and so I did. I thought it was correct because it was spot on in the lower ranges 4-7. Apparently it sway off as it got in higher range. It was probably about 8.6- 8.9. Currently 8.5 and dropping. Thanks you'll
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- Location
- Bethpage,NY
I have the opposite problem.Had to install a C02 scrubber and I can only get it up to 8.3 at peak
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