High nitrates help!

[danmhippo]

Seaguru,

Please go back and read the original poster's question. His tank is 75Gal, and already have 80# LR. He also stated his Wet Dry is Dry now. I hope you are not suggesting him to throw the bioballs back to the system.

BTW, DSB deeper than 4" is really not necessary IME. I had DSB's of varying depth, and it is hard to find much visible worm tunnels below 5". Besides, DSB's being too deep has the undesirable by product hydrogen sulfide. I used to, but I no longer recommend DSB deeper than 4" now.

Regarding the type of macro to choose, I never mentioned it, because It is a matter of personal taste. Unlike you, I choose to go with leafy macros such as sargassum grass or C. prolifera. I have preference over C. prolifera as they are very easy to care for, fast grower, and forms neat looking patch. For nitrate reduction, people would want to go with fast grower instead of slow grower, because you want to be able to trim out macro algae as a form of nutrient export.

Besides, I used to keep seahorses, and they loved hiding in the C. Prolifera patch.

Regards.

 

[seaguru]

Thanks for the feedback on DSB's.

I was only relating my experience. By no means is Chaetomorpha the ONLY means of nutrient export. AND it WILL grow quite fast depending on the amount of light you choose to give it and what the concentration of nutrients in the system actually is...

I agree that the caluerpa species are all very nice but if you read enough about using them as nutrient export you will find quite a bit of controversy on the subject of how, when, and why they go sexual (and most people don't research enough to really even understand what this "going sexual" expression really means!)... and the possible problems associated with this occurance.

Soon I plan to grow gracilaria for my tangs in a separate refugium all plumbed into my main system. It will be experimental as having too many types of macro usually leads to competition among them for nutrients (just as any other life) and some do better while others (if you have many types) may do poorly and even backfire by releasing unwanted substances back into your piece of the reef!

Again I only speak with some knowledge and by all means am not claiming to be an expert in all of this... If anyone wishes to share their take on any of this, please do as this is how we all gain knowledge from each other's experiences.

Regards.

 

[danmhippo]

Ditto, I am also speaking from my experience as well For my tank, I kept refugium light on 24/7, and has not had any macros going sexual for years. Before switching to 24/7, I had 2 occurrances, and needless to say, it's ugly.

I may be wrong, but I think gracillaria will go sexual if condition is "right". However, I have nothing to contribute over gracillaria as I has numerous bad experiences with them.

 

[Oceans Ferevh]

I keep my lights on 24/7 also and have had no problem with my macros. Another temporary solution is to use Purigen.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/p ... 2004&Nty=1

I put it in my canister when I was starting up my fuge. My nitrates were 40 and in two day read zero Just a thought for such a drastic problem.

 

[kdejour]

Thanks alot that info is very useful I will be picking up some macro today and I have just the space for it. This info is helping me out so much all info is being incorperated slowly to ease the system with these great ideas. Thanks. If you have any more useful info please let me know.

 

[Anonymous]

kdejour:

hopefully you will tell us how it works. We enjoy sharing our experiences. But just as important is for you to provides us your experiences and especially feedback on our adivce.

That way our tanks can bet betterer and betterer.

 

[kdejour]

i will definitely provide all the experiences that I have as well as my advice. You all have me on track to want should turn out to be a great tank. I want to help people as much as you all have helped me.