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SnowManSnow

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I'd love to see some pictures of your frag grow out tanks. I'm thinking of building one!!! Maybe 25g .. not much larger than that though. I'd like to use the equipment I have left over from my last upgrade, so I'll keep it reasonably small in order to oversize my equipment. All I really need is lighting, and I can do a retro MH for around $150 from www.hellolights.com

Any suggestions?

Thanks

B
 
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Anonymous

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I'm trying to plan the same thing but I'm looking at T5s.
 

Unarce

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The nicest ones I've seen are wide and shallow. The lighting is also situated so that it's easy to take topdown pictures.
 
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Anonymous

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IMG_2078.jpg


That's my 5' x 4' x 16" deep prop tank. It has a 100g sump, 60g fuge, and another 3' x 18" x 14" deep prop tank. It has 2x 400w halides w/ 4x 4' VHO. The fuge is lit by a 150w MH. The other prop tank is lit by 4x 36" T5's. All of this I have, I just haven't gotten it all together. I'm dumping the current 5x4x16" tank for a more trust worthy vendor (Tru Vu). My last tank wasn't polished by the vendor, and has some things I don't like about it. I'll use it at work for a test tank:)
 

LA-Lawman

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ok, what is the standard of flow. Should all the returns be on one side and force water toward the overflow. or is multi-direction al current still a good way of doing things in a bare bottom prop tank?

I am looking at a 36"x36"x9" tank with a overflow mounted on the outside... with three 1.25 or 1.5" drains.... I was gonna plumb the returns on the opposite side... run a 100g rubbermaid trough sump. and maybe use a sequence dart or something for the return...
 
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Anonymous

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LA-Lawman":1pbs7s24 said:
how come when i posted this thread a while back no one bucked up!!!!

sheesh. i know where i stand! :P

:lol: sorry, just found my pic :)
 
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Anonymous

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SnowManSnow":1abrtd51 said:
why t5 instead of halide? halides are cheaper and seem to give you more wattage for your buck.

b

From what little I know, they give more bang for your buck as far as wattage, not necessarily PAR. Also, I think MH probably do a better job pushing light down to greater depths, and since these tanks are shallow, there is no need. Again, I'm having the same debate in my head right now and welcome any suggestions :).
 
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Anonymous

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So you use more wattage, but get less usable light (less PAR). Hows that better?
 
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Anonymous

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GreshamH":1mfgx9lz said:
So you use more wattage, but get less usable light (less PAR). Hows that better?

Exactly the argument against MHs. Don't ask me, I just repeat what I read :).
 
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Anonymous

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No, you get more PAR from a MH, then a T5 ;) For me, I prefer to use less mercury and what not, and use a MUCH smaller amount in my MH then multiple T5's.
 

trido

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We need to revisit this subject. I need/want a prop tank or two just for the sake of not needing to take frags into the LFS quite so regularly. Is it necessary to use LR in the sump for denitrification? Also, If it YOU were using a 40 breeder. What K rating would would think is best for the 250 MHs?
 

trido

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We need to revisit this subject. I need/want a prop tank or two just for the sake of not needing to take frags into the LFS quite so regularly. Is it necessary to use LR in the sump for denitrification? Also, If it YOU were using a 40 breeder. What K rating would would think is best for the 250 MHs?
 

SnowManSnow

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if it were just a grow out.. i would go with 10ks.. but no higher than 14k. I've read several places where the yellower light spurns coral growth better than blue does....

but.. again, I'm just repeating what I've read. No real experiance in it here.
 
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Anonymous

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GreshamH":28x3cyha said:
LA-Lawman":28x3cyha said:
how come when i posted this thread a while back no one bucked up!!!!

sheesh. i know where i stand! :P

:lol: sorry, just found my pic :)

And the tank?? ;)

Oh crap, that was pre-swap? Ugh! What is it with you.. "I'm looking for a frag tank... one by Tru Vu...." CONSPIRACY!
 

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