standpipe noise
- Thread starter JKDMan
- Start date
It's quieter and produces very little bubbles unlike Dursos (bubble machines).Actually, the two dursos I was using was in the same overflow box, and that was impossible to dial in so that one didn't outpace the other. But if it's separate boxes, it should be much easier. You should be able to tune each independently in the same manner.
As for the valve method, it is a scary idea but never once have any valve clogged in the (nearly) decade I've been using this method. But if I were to design a tank from scratch and had the room in the overflow box, I'd install a second backup drain in case the water level rises too much from blockage.
As for the valve method, it is a scary idea but never once have any valve clogged in the (nearly) decade I've been using this method. But if I were to design a tank from scratch and had the room in the overflow box, I'd install a second backup drain in case the water level rises too much from blockage.
John henry has the right Idea. If you dont already have a hole in the end, cap drill one at about 1/8" and start from there. You may need it to be a little larger to prevent the siphon effect. If you already have a big hole in the cap go buy a new one and start over. It sounds like one of your overflows works a little harder than the other and you will need two different sized cap holes to accomodate this. My dual dursos run evenly and dont need different sized holes but I guess it could happen.
Len":5u7up8f7 said:
If you have a more or less vertical drop in your drain, you can just put a tee below the tank but above the gate valve. The water will still flow straight down. If something gets clogged in the gate valve, it will come out the tee (which you've also plumbed down to the sump, obviously).
The higher gate valve is unnecessary.
I'm definitely with Len & Matt on this - the valve method has been the easiest and quietest (basically silent) for me. With a few provisions incoporated into the setup to prevent flooding (which I have always done anyway, regardless of the overflow/standpipe method being used) IMO it's completely reliable.
On any of my setups, I put a tight fitting lid on my overflow boxes so nothing big enough to clog the drain can get through. This also blocks light and therefore growth of coralline, etc. inside the box. Also, (as Len already mentioned) I run the water level in the sump and the tank so that a full drain clog can be accomodated without anything overflowing.
On any of my setups, I put a tight fitting lid on my overflow boxes so nothing big enough to clog the drain can get through. This also blocks light and therefore growth of coralline, etc. inside the box. Also, (as Len already mentioned) I run the water level in the sump and the tank so that a full drain clog can be accomodated without anything overflowing.
This is exactly what I did on the 180 I'm setting up. In addition to providing another form of overflow protection it also makes dialing-in the valve on the main drain line easier as any slight variations in flow can be taken up by the secondary drain. This slight trickle of flow doesn't add any significant noise.Len":jflh6hjp said:
You use the valve to restrict the standpipe until the intake runs submerged. No gurgling noise and no air entrainment (like a Durso).
With some tweaking you can get the Dursos pretty quiet, but with the valve thing you can get them totally silent and eliminate the noises/bubbles in the sump normally associated with Dursos, Stockmans, etc. which all entrain air into the line.
With some tweaking you can get the Dursos pretty quiet, but with the valve thing you can get them totally silent and eliminate the noises/bubbles in the sump normally associated with Dursos, Stockmans, etc. which all entrain air into the line.
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