The new Prop tank ......with update pics
- Thread starter trido
- Start date
It is a grow out tank right? Lower kelvin gets better growth. I had a very very very very (make my point?) bad experience with 4 xm de 20k bulbs. Terrible. 2 were way off from each other on color temp and the other two lasted about 3 months. I strongly recommend against the 20k xm. However that is JMHO.
Ranger, That is an interesting take on the XM bulb experience that you had. I have had that problem w/coralvue bulbs as almost expected though. I am surprised that XM has a bad QA system. Maybe you just got part of a bad batch? One thing is for sure, the bulb debate never ends. One mans dislike is anothers favorite.
Keith
Keith
Yeah I have heard that their moguls are quite good, but I have had all DE bulbs and all bad experience so...shrug. I agree with teh bulb debate though. One mans great bulb is another mans worst. It really depends on any other supplemental lighting and what the purpose of the tank is. If is a tank to grow out frags and aethetics isn't imprtant that lower kelvin is the way to go. If you want better color, higher kelvin is for you. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder lol.
IMO bluer is better. To my surprise the 10K XM I am currently running over the frag tank is not as stark as I would have imagined. I am trying to shy away from the phoenix 14K on the new 65 only because I have never used anything but them on the 120. I like them very much. I am simply curious to try different bulbs since I now have three different tanks to experiment with.
Ranger":igv9rqmc said:
Sorry, It wasnt meant to be that way. I keep telling myself its all about gearing up for a 400G inwall. I have never used anything but pheonix DE and am very excited to be able to try new bulbs without being stuck with $150 of less than desireable color on the 120 for 6-9 months. A friend of mine has Hamilton 14k 250 moguls. I think I am going to try their 250 DE 14s and see how they differ.
Just thought I'd finally post some pics of my aragocrete back wall in the 65G. I used 40# of aragonite sand,10 # of crucshed coral 4# of rock salt to make it even more porous, and a white cement, lime mix to bind it. It has been curing for near a month and has been flushed with over 400G of water. The Ph is still of the charts even immediately after a WC. It has a long ways to go before I can add anything.
bleedingthought":3hdswzdn said:Why did you choose to not use hydraulic cement?
Because IMO it doesnt really matter. I already have established tanks and just wanted to experiment, cure time isnt an issue for me. Camping season is here and I have a 1/4 acre of yard screaming for attention. I still need a ballast, bulb and a better wave maker before I will stock this tank. I am however picking up some nice frags which are waiting in the new frag tank..
Hydraulic cement isnt necessary. I could have used portland type II cement but chose to use the white type I instead just for the looks. If it doesnt work out. I can tear it out and start over.
No, this isnt tied into the frag tank yet. After curing I will use acrylic rod to make some unusual pillars and caves with my 30+lbs of LR.Then all I have to do to tie it inot the existing system is build the 1" PVC overflow form it to the 40G and then simply take the HOB flexible return hose from the 40 and put it on the 65. Ten minutes of work tops.
I am aware that the hydraulic cement creates less Ph swing but.
The usual mix for concrete, mortar, etc. consists of cement, lime, sand/gravel. I used to work for a masonry company and have a little experience laying brick. In the late 18/early 1900s lime was the only thing used in mortar for brick buildings because cement wasn't discovered yet (or something to that effect). The lime in the mix helps to make it sticky and hold together better. Brick layers add more lime to their mortar than a mix for a concrete slab and so on. I added Kalk (lime) to my mix so it would be more pliable and easier to shape well aware that my Ph would be through the roof for quite some time. This is just a fun experiment for me.
I am aware that the hydraulic cement creates less Ph swing but.
The usual mix for concrete, mortar, etc. consists of cement, lime, sand/gravel. I used to work for a masonry company and have a little experience laying brick. In the late 18/early 1900s lime was the only thing used in mortar for brick buildings because cement wasn't discovered yet (or something to that effect). The lime in the mix helps to make it sticky and hold together better. Brick layers add more lime to their mortar than a mix for a concrete slab and so on. I added Kalk (lime) to my mix so it would be more pliable and easier to shape well aware that my Ph would be through the roof for quite some time. This is just a fun experiment for me.
So, It only took four months and near 400G of tap water to flush the aragocrete but the 65 is finally ready for livestock. I am going to let a local reefer use the tank to house his inhabitants for a few weeks until he can find a new home for himself. Then I will link it to the prop system via return hose and overflow. Here are a couple pics
Sponsor Reefs
We're a FREE website, and we exist because of hobbyists like YOU who help us run this community.
Click here to sponsor $10:
