The new Prop tank ......with update pics

[trido]

My wife and I (Actually me) turned a quarter of our garage into a workout/prop room. My new sytem has a 30G sump, a 40 Breeder and soon to be 65G Display. I didnt want to bore you with sheetrock, framing and electrical so I skipped that. It it interests you, you can browse the 120 build thread and see plenty of 2x4s and plumbing.
Here is a brief summary of the system

The counter top is 3/4"CDX ply wood under a 3/4" press board formica counter top with a cabinet on each end of the underside.
i decided to use a dehumidistat instead of a cooling stat for the exhaust fan.

I drilled four two inch holes for access and intend on linking all three tanks together when the 65 is ready

I drilled 1" bulkheads in each tank and built DIY overflows

I whipped out a DIY heat sink for my Icecap ballast with aluminum angle iron. Im sure my finish blade on my miter saw is shot now. I really wouldnt recommend cutting metal with a wood blade. It is extremely dangerous.

I added five tall baffles to my old 30G softy tank and built a stand for the skimmer for the extra 5Gs of volume

I drilled a couple of quick holes for my DIY recirc mod on my euroreef RS (now CS)-80

And then after working long hours for nearly three weeks and hanging my old PFO pendants I now have a frag tank. I did all of the actual tank mods and set up last weekend including build the sump. It took two weeks to build, paint and carpet the room. I did, after all have to rearange my garage and build a work shop as well

Actually, I shouldnt razz anyone about how quickly things went. I worked too many hours, Im tired, whiney, and sick now. When am I going to learn. I am not 22 anymore. Twelve hour work days dont agree with me anymore.

 

[bleedingthought]

That looks great! 8) Now, how much is a frag pack? I'd be needing one soon!

A couple of questions, if you don't mind:

• 
  What's the difference between the dehumidistat and the cooling stat? And is that exhaust pretty quiet?
  
  What are your plans for that display?
  
  And where did you get your exhaust fan, stat, and AC unit? (I'm trying to find out if anywhere else is cheaper than HD)

P.S. I thought you would include a picture of the work shop, too!

 

[trido]

That looks great! 8) Now, how much is a frag pack? I'd be needing one soon!

A couple of questions, if you don't mind:

• 
  What's the difference between the dehumidistat and the cooling stat? And is that exhaust pretty quiet?
  
  What are your plans for that display?
  
  And where did you get your exhaust fan, stat, and AC unit? (I'm trying to find out if anywhere else is cheaper than HD)

P.S. I thought you would include a picture of the work shop, too!

A coolingstat works opposite of your houshold thermostat. When the temp at the ceiling of my tank/laundry room reaches 80F. ( the temp I have it set at) the fan turns on pulling the heat out. It runs nearly 24/7 except in the dead of winter. The dehumidistat turns on when the room humidity reaches a certain level pulling out the moisture. Be sure that you dont buy a humidistat. They are designed to be ran with a humidifier to add moisture to a room. I used a dehumidstat in the prop room because I was able to cut a hole in the wall for a permantant air conditioner for cooling purposes. The AC also serves as a fresh air vent when the bath fan is running. When the fan kicks on I get quite the breze coming through the AC hole. Surprising actually. A fresh air vent is critical in a tank room. You cant remove 80-120CFM from a room if it isnt being displaced some how. The opening under the door isnt adequate. Besides, Would a person really want to pull the heat or AC From their living space.

I am going to build a faux back wall in the 65G. It will be an SPS tank with a very light fish load. I have a royal gramma, a purple fire fish and will likely add a few cardinals. I want peaceful fish in this tank. The 120 is quite agressive.

The fan and AC came from Lowes at about $100 each. Be sure to get the ultra quite bath fan. It is well worth the money as it is hard mounted to your house and runs all the time. If you buy a cheap fan your bedroom will vibrate at the opposite end of the house.

The "Stats" are both special order over the internet or local electrical contractor supplier. In the south, you may find them on the shelf at HD or lowes.


Actually, I did post a pic of my work shop. It is simply an eight foot plywood work bench with the vise mounted to one end. For me, it is a big step up from building cabinets or entertainment centers in someones' driveway. Its all I need

 

[bleedingthought]

That looks great! 8) Now, how much is a frag pack? I'd be needing one soon!

A couple of questions, if you don't mind:

• 
  What's the difference between the dehumidistat and the cooling stat? And is that exhaust pretty quiet?
  
  What are your plans for that display?
  
  And where did you get your exhaust fan, stat, and AC unit? (I'm trying to find out if anywhere else is cheaper than HD)

P.S. I thought you would include a picture of the work shop, too!

A coolingstat works opposite of your houshold thermostat. When the temp at the ceiling of my tank/laundry room reaches 80F. ( the temp I have it set at) the fan turns on pulling the heat out. It runs nearly 24/7 except in the dead of winter. The dehumidistat turns on when the room humidity reaches a certain level pulling out the moisture. Be sure that you dont buy a humidistat. They are designed to be ran with a humidifier to add moisture to a room. I used a dehumidstat in the prop room because I was able to cut a hole in the wall for a permantant air conditioner for cooling purposes. The AC also serves as a fresh air vent when the bath fan is running. When the fan kicks on I get quite the breze coming through the AC hole. Surprising actually. A fresh air vent is critical in a tank room. You cant remove 80-120CFM from a room if it isnt being displaced some how. The opening under the door isnt adequate. Besides, Would a person really want to pull the heat or AC From their living space.

I am going to build a faux back wall in the 65G. It will be an SPS tank with a very light fish load. I have a royal gramma, a purple fire fish and will likely add a few cardinals. I want peaceful fish in this tank. The 120 is quite agressive.

The fan and AC came from Lowes at about $100 each. Be sure to get the ultra quite bath fan. It is well worth the money as it is hard mounted to your house and runs all the time. If you buy a cheap fan your bedroom will vibrate at the opposite end of the house.

The "Stats" are both special order over the internet or local electrical contractor supplier. In the south, you may find them on the shelf at HD or lowes.


Actually, I did post a pic of my work shop. It is simply an eight foot plywood work bench with the vise mounted to one end. For me, it is a big step up from building cabinets or entertainment centers in someones' driveway. Its all I need

PM sent. BTW, still waiting on an answer from the e-mail and the price for the frag pack!

 

[ChrisRD]

Nice job! 8)

 

[trido]

After reading LA Lawmans' bulb thread I started questioning my bulb choice for the third tank.
So far, I have phoenix 14ks along with three VHO actinics over the 120. I now have a 10XM over the 40 breeder. I just ordered a 4 light VHO retro kit so I can run two actinics over each of these tank. I went with a 10k over the breeder for more rapid grow out but tend to like things blue.
I am thinking of a hamilton 14k only to compare it to the phoenix but am second guessing the thought.

I would love to hear some suggestions.

 

[LA-Lawman]

i really had no idea on the 15k iwasaki... i am pondering. i think i might do it... i really like the phoenix bulbs on my display.....

 

[trido]

Thales, Len, anyone. If your reading this Do you think a 20k 250 would be strong enough to grow SPS in the 65G? It is 24" tall.

 

[Anonymous]

I think it depends on your goals for the system. Is it simple presentation or is it growth? My current opinion is if you want color, go higher K (14-20K), if you want growth, hit the 10Ks. Of course, this is bulb only without much supplementation. I'm sure you could get great color out of 10Ks + lots of actinics.

 

[SnowManSnow]

Im of the opinion that the lower K bulbs tend to get more growth out of your colors.

IMO I would go with 10k on the prop system. It will look awefully yellow, but should make um grow faster.

b

 

[LA-Lawman]

i think the lower the Kelvin rating the faster the growth I am gonna try those 15k iwasaki's..... i have some 10ks in 175w i will use at a last resort.....

 

[bleedingthought]

Remember the color the moderately higher kelvin will bring to the frags, though.

 

[trido]

Sheesh....... You guys. I already have a 250 10K XM with 190w of actinic URI over the prop tank. I am asking recommendations for a Brand of 14-20K 250 bulb for the top of the 24"tall 65G display tank tied to it. It will also have 190w of actinics.

 

[bleedingthought]

The display will have corals as well, correct?

 

[trido]

The display will have corals as well, correct?

Yes, Plenty of SPS, some LPS (blastos, acans, etc.) and a couple left over rics and hairy shrooms.
I like things blue. I am wondering if a 20K 250 will have enough intensity to grow happy healthy SPS.

 

[bleedingthought]

The display will have corals as well, correct?

Yes, Plenty of SPS, some LPS (blastos, acans, etc.) and a couple left over rics and hairy shrooms.
I like things blue. I am wondering if a 20K 250 will have enough intensity to grow happy healthy SPS.

Use a good reflector (lumenarcs are on my list! ), and have the bulb close to the water and you should be fine.

Matter of fact, some 14k-15k bulbs are pretty close to intensity to the 20ks on some brands. XM comes to mind. Go to Sanjay's website and input your ballast in and see what you get.

Either way, it will grow the SPS. The growth might not be as much as the 10k bulbs but it's not a prop system after all.

 

[SnowManSnow]

Remember the color the moderately higher kelvin will bring to the frags, though.

The higher K bulbs make the frags LOOK more colorful because the light is bluer. Take a frag that has been grown in a 10k environment and put it under a 20k bulb and it will all of a sudden appear more colorful.

 

[bleedingthought]

Remember the color the moderately higher kelvin will bring to the frags, though.

The higher K bulbs make the frags LOOK more colorful because the light is bluer. Take a frag that has been grown in a 10k environment and put it under a 20k bulb and it will all of a sudden appear more colorful.

Yes, you're right. But higher K bulbs also makes frags/corals develop more color. Take a coral that is very colorful and has grown under a higher K bulb and put it in a lower K bulb and it'll immediately look different. But also, after a while in there, it'll lose some of its color.

 

[Anonymous]

I would recommend a 14k Phenix. I am on my second set of them and love them. Good color and growth. Good combo bulb.

 

[kmagyar]

Try the 20k XM bulb, forget about the 14-15k bulbs IMO. Really nice setup BTW.

Keith