When my chiller goes on, my power heads start rattling?
- Thread starter JLAudio
- Start date
- Location
- Ossining, NY
I would say no, what I think could be happening is that the initial draw from the chiller is causing a 'start/stop" effect and THAT is causing the rattling - this is common with maxijets especially when they are using in conjunction with a controller (Red Sea Wavemaster comes to mind) are they maxijets?
Hope this helps,
house
Hope this helps,
house
The power heads, are Koralia's, I have a 4 a 3 and a Tunze 6045. My reason for thinking this is that when I pulled out the plug to one the Koralia 3 began doing the same thing, then I pulled out the chiller and they ran fine.
Wes, Im not sure the exact number, but it has to be pretty high, because Im running 400 watt halides, and all the typical reef stuff (power heads, heater, skimmer, reactor, etc). The outlet also has tv and some miscelaneous stuff
Wes, Im not sure the exact number, but it has to be pretty high, because Im running 400 watt halides, and all the typical reef stuff (power heads, heater, skimmer, reactor, etc). The outlet also has tv and some miscelaneous stuff
- Location
- Marine Park
WOW yeah you've got some serious load there for one circuit.
Even an Icecap 400 is 5.4 Amps to two of those is about 11 amps which is the high end for a 15 amp breaker.
Even an Icecap 400 is 5.4 Amps to two of those is about 11 amps which is the high end for a 15 amp breaker.
- Location
- Ossining, NY
Agree with fritz - while running it isn't more than 15 amps, there is some serious shortcomings in that config - 1/4hp typically draw 6amps at start up - not sure what they "run" at.
Either way, there is some serious draw on that circuit -
house
- Location
- Marine Park
That my friends is what the "industry people" call a firehazard.
I'm sure you bought the heavy duty 15amp extension cord but it's worth pointing out to those that read along that this is a bad idea. Sure you could do it worse, say use a .99 "one to three" extension cord, maybe add in a powerstrip for the extra fire hazard, but still not good practice.
Honestly JL I can't believe you haven't tripped that breaker and I'd check to make sure it's not faulty. Odds are it's not a 20 amp and as mentioned, your lights alone are pulling about 11 amps. Your return pump is another 1 amp, if you have T5s there's another 2 amps your misc pumps another amp or two. Your chiller is 6 when it clicks over then settles down to ? amps. You're already up high enough to be tripping a 20 amp breaker.
Not to mention is your chiller vented outside? Or is it just blowing hot air into the room? You may want to set your house AC to 76-78. You'll likely find that a far better (and cheaper) solution. Non vented chillers are a total waste. They cool your tank and heat the room, which heats the tank, which makes the chiller work harder to cool the tank, which heats the room more, which heats the tank, which makes the chiller work harder, which heats the room.......
Also make sure the other outlet isn't on the same circuit otherwise it's adding extra firehazard with no gain.
I'm sure you bought the heavy duty 15amp extension cord but it's worth pointing out to those that read along that this is a bad idea. Sure you could do it worse, say use a .99 "one to three" extension cord, maybe add in a powerstrip for the extra fire hazard, but still not good practice.
Honestly JL I can't believe you haven't tripped that breaker and I'd check to make sure it's not faulty. Odds are it's not a 20 amp and as mentioned, your lights alone are pulling about 11 amps. Your return pump is another 1 amp, if you have T5s there's another 2 amps your misc pumps another amp or two. Your chiller is 6 when it clicks over then settles down to ? amps. You're already up high enough to be tripping a 20 amp breaker.
Not to mention is your chiller vented outside? Or is it just blowing hot air into the room? You may want to set your house AC to 76-78. You'll likely find that a far better (and cheaper) solution. Non vented chillers are a total waste. They cool your tank and heat the room, which heats the tank, which makes the chiller work harder to cool the tank, which heats the room more, which heats the tank, which makes the chiller work harder, which heats the room.......
Also make sure the other outlet isn't on the same circuit otherwise it's adding extra firehazard with no gain.
Not to mention is your chiller vented outside? Or is it just blowing hot air into the room? You may want to set your house AC to 76-78. You'll likely find that a far better (and cheaper) solution. Non vented chillers are a total waste. They cool your tank and heat the room, which heats the tank, which makes the chiller work harder to cool the tank, which heats the room more, which heats the tank, which makes the chiller work harder, which heats the room.......
I keep the room @ 74 w/ central A/C 24/7 and the chiller (different room) still comes on a few times a day. AC isn't enough in some cases.
- Location
- Marine Park
True likely not with 400s going on.
Im not sure of the capacity of the breaker, but I live in a connected house that has 7 apts in it, so assume the breaker is enhanced (I assume*). So far I have not blown the fuse once.
So what should I do, if the power cord is a bad idea?
So what should I do, if the power cord is a bad idea?
- Location
- NY
JL, all the information given here is spot on. The maximum working load of a circuit should also not exceed 80% of the circuits rating. For instance, if the circuit is on a 20 amp breaker you shouldn't put appliances on that circuit totaling more than 16 amps (20 x .8 = 16).
The extension cord is not a terrible idea if you don't make the cord longer than you need it to be and you over size the cord. For instance, if you need 20 feet to the outlet on the other circuit, don't buy a 50' cord. Buy a 25' cord and I would get a 12 gauge cord for that kind of draw. If you bought a 14 or 16 gauge cord I'd bring it back and err on the side of caution.
swimmer
The extension cord is not a terrible idea if you don't make the cord longer than you need it to be and you over size the cord. For instance, if you need 20 feet to the outlet on the other circuit, don't buy a 50' cord. Buy a 25' cord and I would get a 12 gauge cord for that kind of draw. If you bought a 14 or 16 gauge cord I'd bring it back and err on the side of caution.
swimmer
- Location
- NY
BTW, you shouldn't buy a cord rated for a certain amperage. The determining factors on the cord needed is the amperage used and the distance run. That's why I said to get the shortest cord you can get away with.
swimmer
swimmer
Master thank you very much for all info as well everyone else, I will check my cord for the gauge and if it is under 12 I will return it. Im thinking I am going to need a long cord, because the closest outlet is across the room so im going to have to run around couch, table etc.
- Location
- Marine Park
Well to no ones surprise when I got home, my power was off. I went down stairs and checked the box and their 100 AMP breakers, I hooked it up to the 25ft. power cord. Its does not indicate gauge but it says "outdoor 16/3" and that its good up to 1625 watts.
Im running it on in outlet where there is no other plugs. So far so good, no strain on pumps and power is on
Im running it on in outlet where there is no other plugs. So far so good, no strain on pumps and power is on
- Location
- NY
JL, the higher the number the thinner the wire. Ideally, you'll want to get a lower number and the shortest run possible. Here is a VERY valuable chart. If you don't understand anything, shout and I'm sure one of us will be on line.
BTW, ANY appliance that uses a compressor (refrigerator, A/C, heat exchanger, etc) should be on a dedicated circuit (that means, NOTHING else on that circuit AT ALL). The start up draw of a compressor will cause a drop in voltage to anything else on that circuit. In addition, your compressor might not get the peak draw it needs to start and that can shorten the life of your appliance (expensive).
Russ
BTW, ANY appliance that uses a compressor (refrigerator, A/C, heat exchanger, etc) should be on a dedicated circuit (that means, NOTHING else on that circuit AT ALL). The start up draw of a compressor will cause a drop in voltage to anything else on that circuit. In addition, your compressor might not get the peak draw it needs to start and that can shorten the life of your appliance (expensive).
Russ
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