Newbie with a couple of questions

[aborrero4u]

Hey all, so here is the story. I used to have a freshwater setup 72 bow front, then i sold it to my cousin, 4 years ago when i was 19. Five months ago i brought it back for 120 bucks and it came with the hood, covers, and a fluval 405 canister. After contemplating life and doing alot of research, i decided to have a saltwater setup and am falling in love with the hobby. People said that it was difficult, that i was too young and its expensive, but i believe its well worth it. So my tank has been up for about 4 months now, all chemical balance are in order. I just added 2 damsels and 2 blue devils a week ago and have some zoas, candy canes and polyps. I have a fluval 405 running, with an aquaclear 70 aerating the aquarium along with a marineland heater and a Bulls*** seaclone 100.( I know it was a newbie move buying that skimmer):iamwithst I have a master test kit, that test for ph, ammonia, nitrate and nitrite. I have about 20 lbs of rock and am slowly adding more rock. Any more insight would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

A few questions

What other test kits do I NEED to have thats a must?
I do water changes biweekly, is this sufficient?
As opposed to running my skimmer, do you think I should add another fluval 405 instead?

 

[Solace Aquatics LLC]

The Master Test Kit unfortunately is not going to cut it, it is very inaccurate. I suggest going with Salifert, LaMotte, or Elos kits from here on out. Also, what are you using to measure your salinity? If you are not using a refractomoeter, I would spend the extra money and get one, they are worth every penny over a hydrometer.

Biweekly water changes are fine, considering your nitrates and ammonia levels are low.

I would throw away the skimmer you have. And go with either a better Hang on the Back skimmer or install a sump so you can have a better range of skimmers to choose from.

Also, be careful with canister filters as they can become nitrater FACTORIES.

 

[Chiefmcfuz]

What type of lighting do you have? The fluval needs to be cleaned frequently or it will be a problem down the road. It will trap detritus and uneaten food and become a nitrate factory as stated above. The master test kit and the seaclown will need to be upgraded for better accuracy and better waste removal. Your lighting will be a big factor in what you can keep in your tank coral wise so think before you buy. Also those damsels will get very mean. If you want other fish in the tank I would catch and remove them.

 

[anthony27]

first of all welcome to the hobby, I got told the same stuff to. I started off with a 25 gallon and went up to a 190 and then back now to a 43 custom high acrylic. Best to drop the canister filter and get a sump pup and working, and get a realy good skimmer a aqua remora is what you are going to hear that skimmer name alot. I had that skimmer you had and i threw it in the trash. Alot of ppl now have sumps for sale and you should invest into one and def a awsom light. if you need any advice feel free to ask also buy your self a rodi system for the water changes and have a good paying job cause this hobby is going to cost you alottttt:tongue1::tongue1::tongue1::tongue1:rangehat

 

[aborrero4u]

The Master Test Kit unfortunately is not going to cut it, it is very inaccurate. I suggest going with Salifert, LaMotte, or Elos kits from here on out. Also, what are you using to measure your salinity? If you are not using a refractomoeter, I would spend the extra money and get one, they are worth every penny over a hydrometer.

Biweekly water changes are fine, considering your nitrates and ammonia levels are low.

I would throw away the skimmer you have. And go with either a better Hang on the Back skimmer or install a sump so you can have a better range of skimmers to choose from.

Also, be careful with canister filters as they can become nitrater FACTORIES.

I am a using an instant ocean hydrometer, to check the salinity. To clean it, i let it sit for thirty minutes in vinegar for a more accurate reading. Gee billy wonkers, I just checked the salinity in petland for their salt water tanks, they were at .18, how are they able to survive? O and on that skimmer,l I am in the process of modding it s for better results JUST FOR NOW, this will due. I Will keep you posted. The remora pro, sounds like a good idea, I saw they had some for sale on here. Also those damsels are agressive, may have to feed them to the dogs, lmao, just kidding.

 

[aborrero4u]

What type of lighting do you have? The fluval needs to be cleaned frequently or it will be a problem down the road. It will trap detritus and uneaten food and become a nitrate factory as stated above. The master test kit and the seaclown will need to be upgraded for better accuracy and better waste removal. Your lighting will be a big factor in what you can keep in your tank coral wise so think before you buy. Also those damsels will get very mean. If you want other fish in the tank I would catch and remove them.

I have two Corallife 40 watt actinic blue t 12s on there. The zoas, polyps and candy canes all seem to be responding well. However I know more sufficient lighting will be needed as I keep upgrading. With respect to cleaning the filter, should I change the carbon and bio max and pre filter, weekly or do you mean just cleaning the canister itself with water and a rag? Damn damsel will just have to fed to the dogs.lol

 

[Solace Aquatics LLC]

I have two Corallife 40 watt actinic blue t 12s on there. The zoas, polyps and candy canes all seem to be responding well. However I know more sufficient lighting will be needed as I keep upgrading. With respect to cleaning the filter, should I change the carbon and bio max and pre filter, weekly or do you mean just cleaning the canister itself with water and a rag? Damn damsel will just have to fed to the dogs.lol

The T-12s should be replaced as soon as possible with at least T5's if not Metal Halides when possible (I know the economy is tough)

As far as the canister filter goes. You should clean and rinse the pre-filter every week. Just like a ringing out a sponge under clean running water. The carbon usually gets changed once a month or sooner if you're water starts to become cloudy or subdued with excess chemicals. The Biomax I would at least rinse once a week. Of course, clean and dump out all the funky water in the bottom of the canister filter.

For the time being, until you get better lighting, I would keep all your corals as close to the surface as possible.

 

[aborrero4u]

The T-12s should be replaced as soon as possible with at least T5's if not Metal Halides when possible (I know the economy is tough)

As far as the canister filter goes. You should clean and rinse the pre-filter every week. Just like a ringing out a sponge under clean running water. The carbon usually gets changed once a month or sooner if you're water starts to become cloudy or subdued with excess chemicals. The Biomax I would at least rinse once a week. Of course, clean and dump out all the funky water in the bottom of the canister filter.

For the time being, until you get better lighting, I would keep all your corals as close to the surface as possible.

Question, what would be the best lights, as I am on a budget? I like the actinic blue look. Should the wattage be higher? I may have to ask the boss for another damn raise...:bablefish

 

[aborrero4u]

Hey, I have the test kits for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and Ph. I think I need two or three more test kits? Which ones should they be? Calcium, Phosphate, Carbonate Hardness. I have Zoaz, polyps and candy canes, in the tank, very small amount being that I just purchased them....Thanks in advance

 

[Solace Aquatics LLC]

Hey, I have the test kits for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and Ph. I think I need two or three more test kits? Which ones should they be? Calcium, Phosphate, Carbonate Hardness. I have Zoaz, polyps and candy canes, in the tank, very small amount being that I just purchased them....Thanks in advance

Calclium, Magnesium, ALK, Nitrate, and pH. I recommend Salifert, they give you best accuracy for the price.


As far as the lights go, that is a huge question. It really depends on what type of animals you want to keep, does the tank have a hood, are willing to hang pendants from the ceiling, we need a little more info to help you out more on this.

 

[aborrero4u]

Calclium, Magnesium, ALK, Nitrate, and pH. I recommend Salifert, they give you best accuracy for the price.


As far as the lights go, that is a huge question. It really depends on what type of animals you want to keep, does the tank have a hood, are willing to hang pendants from the ceiling, we need a little more info to help you out more on this.

Well, when I brought the tank it came with the hood included (48 inch). They are one and a half inch in diameter, t 12s, I have two lights on right now. Im not sure if I want to hang lights from the ceiling, but it is a thought. Right now I am just trying to find the lights that would be sufficient for the fish and corals I am going to have. An idea of the fish I want to have are, blue regal tang, yellow tang, 2 clownfish, powder tangs, and anemoes and live rock and come corals. I figure since its a 72 bow, no more than 8-10 FISH because of the bio load, unless I upgrade to a sump and an fx canister.

 

[Awibrandy]

Hi, welcome to MR. Best wishes with your tank.

T12 lighting that you got with your tank are for fish only tanks. Do a little research on what animals it is that you do intend to keep in the long run, then with those in mind you can research what type of lighting you will need. Examples are T5, VHO, LED, and MH. As you can see there is an array of lighting options out there. You will also have to decide what wattage.

Remember to keep those fluvals clean, or you will regret it. I would not bother with canister filters at all. A sump is way better. And do upgrade your protein skimmer asap. Also it you don't already have an RO/DI I suggest you make that your next purchase.
JMO, check here before making any purchases so that we can try and save you some $$$$$.

 

[tomtoothdoc]

welcome to our obsession.

A few questions

What other test kits do I NEED to have thats a must? calcium and kh carbon hardness (alkalinity) are what you would need for now
I do water changes biweekly, is this sufficient? 10% once a week is better
As opposed to running my skimmer, do you think I should add another fluval 405 instead? i would pick the skimmer(albeit it sux) over another 405

hello and welcome.

please refrain from buying any livestock from petland discount (they are usually not in the best of health and will cause problems and headaches)....buy them from members/vendors here...just search for sale or post in the want to buy page. they will also give you the best advice on compatibility and how to care for the animals.

before adding any chemicals(for example ph-up/ ph-down or getting rid off algae and cyanobacteria) please do a thorough research on the topic. usually a quick fix chemicals is not the best solution and many times is a very bad idea.

let's work with what you already have.

the api test kit - ammonia and the ph are just acceptable. the nitrate is almost useless....but for now if it shows anything yellowish-->orange, water change time. api calcium and kh carbon hardness(alk) are simple and acceptable for the price. remember it's more of a stability range you're looking for since the "number value" in the api kits are not quite accurate. for example if your alk tests normally between 8-10, but then all of a sudden it tests 7 or 11 then something is not quite right.

ask a member near you who has a refractometer to help calibrate your hydrometer. just mark the value from the refractometer on to the hydrometer with a sharpy.

all links here are just to give you an idea of what i'm talking about. many vendors here can get the same type of products for you...so please support them.

http://www.petsolutions.com/Chemi-Pure+I19916705+C39.aspx

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/Carbon-and-Phosphate-Remover-GFO-Phosphate-Remover-(GFO)-Granular-GFO/c109_8_87/p350/1-pound-(453-Grams)-Granular-Ferric-Oxide/product_info.html

take out all foam and prefilter, etc. from the the fluval 405 and the aquaclear 70. run the 405 with only chemi-pure bags(2x 10 oz. bags) and gfo bag(amount indicated on container) inside. you can run the aquaclear 70 empty just for aeration or split up the chemi-pure bags...one in here and one in the 405. rinse the chemi-pure and the gfo at least every 2-3 weeks, swap for new gfo after 3-4 weeks, new chemi-pure after 4-5 months. yes there are many other products but these two really work are probably the easiest for maintenace and best bang for the buck.

things to up grade once you can afford:

ro/di unit- you should be using only ro/di water for top off and preparing salt water mix. if you don't have access to ro/di water, look to buy the water from a member near you. you'll probably go thru about 10 gal./week for top off and water change. 1 gal. ~ 8lbs. 80 lbs. to lug around every week is pretty heavy but hey you're young. ro/di units will pay for itself in no time.
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/RO/DI...-75GDP-RO/DI-5-Stage-System/product_info.html

lights- depends on what corals you want to keep- for things similar to what you already have, t'5s would probably be a good choice. metal halide produces a lot of heat you may need to get a chiller or run your a/c all the time($$$$), power compacts are not adequate in my opinion.
https://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3733+13822+18700&pcatid=18700
http://www.petsolutions.com/Nova-Extreme-HO-T5-Fixtures+I42901121+C40001722.aspx

skimmer, sump,- something like this
http://www.manhattanreefs.com/forum/custom-king/62518-brand-new-custom-sump-skimmer.html

i hope this help. mr members are some of the most friendly and helpful than any others. i've met many friends here.
-tom