Need advise ..... for my 65gal setup

[janey]

for the past 3 months trying to get my new 65 gal going , but there's always an issue ....

1st
i had an iwaki that i was gonna use as a closed loop 4 way return 1/2 ".

when we hook it up, i wasn't getting any flows.
So i went and bought a Dart, but i was told that was overkill, so i went and bought a snapper , which has a 2" intake and we brought it down to 1" and when i turn on the pump Again no flow , well very little flow to return line which are 1/2 " ... So we had to redo the plumping and changed the inlet from 1" to 2" and hopefuly with the 2" intake i Hope all goes well.

Front view of Tank with 4 way return... NO Ocean motion...
Trying to stay with just 1 pump. The Snapper..

Back view of the plumbing.
the 1" intake was changed to 2"

I'm also working on the maniford.... and need to finish plumbing the DSB tank

http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww69/saltwater6152
/DSC01865.jpg

 

[janey]

So my question is why am i not getting good flow through all my 4 way ??//
Also my friend drilled to small holes on each side of the return for
syphoning ?? I don't remember what he said. So i fig maybe that's why I'm looseing head pressure ...

So i closed them up, and i was getting decent flow.
Now Question again..

when i shut off the tank i saw that my sump wouldn't stop rising of water.


Can someone help me and give me advise as to what should i do ....????


Thanks


Janet

 

[Arati]

Each fitting, each turn all adds to the head loss. Also those line locss arent great for smooth flow either. The depth underwater contributes aswell. The elbows and fittings before the pump also hinder the pump.

I use a Tarpon Uno for my 65 its rated for more head loss and works great. My sump is in the cellar.

 

[janey]

Ok , I will take off the lock lines.

Should i put a Swing check valve on the return line instead of the drilled holes i have now ???

 

[masterswimmer]

Janey, the LocLine shouldn't restrict the flow enough from a Snapper to the point that you need to remove them.

Does your Snapper return the water to all four LocLine segments inside your tank? Or is that part of a closed loop?

If the Snapper is your only pump as you mentioned then the reason your sump keeps filling is because those two lower LocLine returns are so far below the waterline that you will either have floods every time the electric goes out or you'll need to use the dreaded checkvalve. There is one last suggestion that I would be inclined to use. I would plug up the two bottom returns and only use the two top LocLines. This will satisfy a couple of your issues. First it will provide you with the lost flow you are experiencing. And secondly it should negate the need for any check valves.

Hopefully this helped.
Russ

 

[reefman]

russ is right on the $
finding the right pump for your setup can be a trial n error experience since there r so many variables involved.
tip:do not rely on check valves

 

[Josh]

I would close the bottom returns like Russ said, much simpler. You should still be able to get the same amount of flow into the sump if you want but it might be a bit louder.

 

[janey]

Yes my system is a closed loop. Ok so then i should close off the bottom 2 ??
Here's another pic of the side..

 

[Solace Aquatics LLC]

What size is the plumbing going to the returns? Is it 1/2"?

Also, I noticed each piece does not have a valve. I would put a valve on each one, then you do not have to plug the bottom 2 lockline sets as these may be useful in the future. Also, a snapper pump is not pressure rated so you will get a substantial amount of head loss (head loss X4), because it is a recirculating pump, not a pressure pump. If you moved the pump and the reservoir to the same height as the tank, you will increase your output to what you are looking for.

However, I would simply replace the pump with a pressure pump and put ball valves (preferably Asashi or GF) and then you can control the output of each lockline segment which will enable you to setup a custom flow pattern. Also, a True Union Ball Valve on the pump's intake will help with any maintenance and enable you to "throttle down" the pump if need be.

 

[janey]

Yes its 1/2 return.. Man I been going through this for 3 months buying parts and changing parts.. ... so should i get the Tarpon Uno like Arti said..???
wow this is gonna be the 3rd pump. i have the Dart too.. But thats gonna be for my 100 or 180 tank ..next year... I hope...

 

[Solace Aquatics LLC]

Or an Iwaki or Pan-World. I used a lot of Pan-worlds for my setups, they are not on the quiet side though. Reeflo is definitely the way to go if you are looking for quiet.

I would go for the Tarpon, I have never been unhappy with Reeflo pumps. Plus, they have Baldor motors. You can always install a manifold before it goes up to the tank to run other equipment (ie. skimmer, ca reactor, media reactors)

 

[janey]

OK, Now i know , what my freind did wrong..
Gonna change the plumping all over again.... {3rd time} and I'm doing it myself.

The Snapper outlet has to stay @1.5 to a tee, then from there bring down to 1"and up in tank to 3/4".

question for the True union ball valve , which glue/cement do i use to glue on a white pvc???

thanks

and PS Thanks Paul..:}:}:}

 

[Wes]

I think you problem is using 1" pipe on a pump with a 2" inlet. You are starving the pump which leads to poor performance and possibly cavitation. That combined with some head = no flow.

Centrifugal pumps push, not pull. It is critical to use proper inlet size. That means your inlet side should be at least 2" the entire run, including a 2" bulkhead. If your bulkhead is smaller than 2" and drilling a bigger hole is out of the question, you should find a pump with a smaller inlet to match. Reducing pipe size to match pump inlet is ok. Increasing to match an inlet size is only ok if the entire run of pipe (including bulkhead) is greater than or equal to pump inlet.

Hope this makes sense.

 

[Bob 1000]

1" so early coming out of the pump is no good I use reeflo pumps on the majority of the set ups I do, just because they are quiet.. Please make sure the your inlet side of the pump has the right size going in and 1.5 going out until you tee it, place the tee as close to the ends ofthe returns as possible.. That should help pressure, that pump should be blowing water all over the place in your tank..

 

[janey]

ok after 2 days of REplumbing ... this is what i did . Changed the inlet to 1.5 to a tee to 1"... then up to 3/4 .


Making some water for the leak test, and i Better be getting my flow ....

HELP Question. Where should i drill A hole for the syphon to stop??? As you see i put a dot to where i think i should drill the hole ??/ Or am i about to do it wrong ??

 

[juiceguy]

the hole should be right below your water line, make sure you do it for each return line

 

[janey]

so a little lower from where i have the dot ?

 

[kimoyo]

]

Hey Janey, this picture looks great. It's exactly what I was telling you. 1.5" to two 1" from a 1.5" tee. But it looks like you went directly to 3/4" from the these 1" lines. That is a restriction. You need to go from the 1" lines to a 1"tee and then to two 3/4" openings on both sides for a total of four 3/4" openings. With only two 3/4" outlets your just restricting the pump like we talked about and you need to avoid.

 

[kimoyo]

I see now. Yeah, like I said on the phone, it sucks, but you really have no option but to change that plumbing in the overflows to get that pump working to its full potential. What your doing right now if basically putting a valve on it and opening it half way.

 

[janey]

Thanks Paul....

Now about the syphon hole.. where exactly do i drill the hole ??
Soemone said below the water line.. ? Not sure where ???