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nyfireman3097

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Hey I have 3 400w XM 20k i just bought 2 10k's i have no supplementing lights will 2 10k and 1 20k still be too white also did the 10k bulbs make things look alot less colorful my 20k have very little blue more whitish blue and i think they look G8 but im looking for growth
Nick
 

ShaunW

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Are you guys talking about single ended mogule or double ended pendant. Does the XM bulb come in a DE version?

I've alway been under the impression that it is more than just the bulb that is important, i.e. ballast, coil vs electronic? What are you guys using to drive the bulb?
 

jackson6745

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Originally posted by solbby:

I've alway been under the impression that it is more than just the bulb that is important, i.e. ballast, coil vs electronic? What are you guys using to drive the bulb?
You got that right Shaun. Check out this pic of Pedro's Tank
Both bulbs are SE Aquaconnect 14k 250's. The left side is a PFO standard ballast the right PFO HQI ballast. BIG difference!
lights.jpg
 

jackson6745

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I'm not a big fan of standard or electronic ballasts with the higher K bulbs. Although you will save money in electrical costs and reduce heat, you are losing par and tend to drive most bulbs bluer than what they can be on an HQI ballast (the pic is proof). If you run 14k's or 20k's you must use an HQI ballast IMO to get maxium par for good growth.

Nick, if you run 20k XM's you're going to be in shock when switching to 10k's. Since you are running 3 halides I'll assume your tank is 6ft? 1 20k in the middle will not blend very well with 2x20ks on the ends. Your corals will appear less colorful under the 10k's with the exception of pinks and yellows which seem better for me under the 10k's.
I think you should go with the 14k phoenix's for the best of both worlds. MSHUR runs the 400w 14k Aquaconnects (which is the same buld as the phoenix only double the $) on an hqi ballast and he keeps awesome colors and gets great growth. No need to sacrifice color for growth


[ January 30, 2005, 12:42 AM: Message edited by: jackson6745 ]
 

jackson6745

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Hmm...you're right I only see the 250w version listed....I thought the 400w was available for some reason :rolleyes: The hamilton 14k is also a good bulb but doesn't give your corals that fluorescent look like the AC's do. Nick what ballast are you running the XM's on?

[ January 30, 2005, 02:34 AM: Message edited by: jackson6745 ]
 

House of Laughter

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Jackson,

I agree, you shouldn't have to give up one for the other, but I haven't seen one set-up that gives both - seriougsly - I haven't tried all the combinations either :)

That picture is proof in the pudding, though, that the motor is equally as important as the paint job.

I wonder though, from a scientific perspective, how much the yellow light has to do with the photosynthetuc properties of zooanthellea as well as chlorophyl in planted tanks.

It seems what we do is cheat the corals of perfect conditions by playing with the spectrum of our bulbs. Isthere any scientific research on perfect light conditions?

Great conveersation

House
 

nanoreefer22

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So Magnetic ballast probably give you the worst performance ballast wise? Would it underdrive the bulb? If there is such a thing.

Also on the bulbs since the sun is more yellow, are we simulating the sun alone in the bulb? Or is the sun and the water together that the bulbs try to simulate the colors of?

Kris
 

jackson6745

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Hey Shaun is there shuch thing as Electronic HQI ballasts?

Kris, magnetic ballasts, in most cases overdrive halide bulbs more so than electronic ballasts. As for the spectrum, the deeper you go the bluer you get (20k) the more shallow you go the more yellow you get (65k)
 

ShaunW

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I really think that the dogma that 65K bulbs cause increase growth compared to other kelvin bulbs is a gray area, and that it is species specific. Corals growing in 10 feet of water are going to be much more adapted to the yellow spectrum than ones at 40 feet, where mostly blue spectra light will reach (longer wavelength, thus will penetrate water better).

Some review:

Photosynthesis 101:

Chlorophyll a is stimulated at 400-490 nm, chlorophyll b at 450-470nm with an additional peaks for both in the 650-670nm range

http://bio.winona.edu/berg/ILLUST/fig15-5.jpg


Chlorophyll absorbs and reflects light which we see as color and fluorescence.

Chlorophyll absorbs light largely in the blue and red portions of the electromagnetic spectrum.
Chlorophyll reflects and transmits light in the green and yellow portions of the spectrum.

Accessory pigments, such as carotenes, phycobilins and xanthophylls, absorb light energy in portions of the spectrum where chlorophyll cannot and transfer that energy to chlorophyll. Light energy is transferred amongst pigments as the energy of resonance.

When light is absorbed electrons move up an excitation state. This transition is not a gradual one, but rather electrons move up in a quantum jump. If the electron is not captured by some other compound, the electron looses energy and falls down to its ground state. Some of the energy is lost as heat, but some is re-emitted as a longer wavelength light. This phenomenon is called "fluorescence."

So it all really depends on the organisms ability to synthesize the different light capturing compounds and the ratio of the two chlorophyll that dictates its color and ability to synthesis sugar from light.

[ January 30, 2005, 01:26 PM: Message edited by: solbby ]
 

nanoreefer22

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Hey I've got the money to get the bulb now before i go ahead and purchase the XM 10K, I want to know if i will get good color with it. Will the greens be bright etc... Or will it be neccessary to supplement them to get good color. I'm going to order it from Hellolights.com they have them for $60 and it seems like the have really good policys. Just let me know how the colros will show up. Thanks.

Kris
 

jackson6745

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Kris you can keep nice colors with the 10k's alone, I did. Later down the road supplememt them with actinics and you'll get even more out of your blues + purples and your corals will glow more. Go for it!
 

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