Need help in setting up new tank

[bikereef]

Bought a "Used" new tank and it will be a FOWLR, I need help in making sure the return plumbing will work (return pump is Mag18)

Also need help in making a fuge, the previous owner started it but never finished and before I start off I want to know if there are any ways I can have a cleaner more effective set up. The sump is a 30G glass tank, wit the following dimensions:

the first section measures about 7" with a slit of about 6" accross at 9" high, then the fuge section is about 15" followed by a 9" tall sheet which holds some bio balls and filter material which then has an opening at the bottom of the last sheet of about 1" into the return section.

[ February 03, 2005, 01:10 PM: Message edited by: bikereef ]

 

[mshur]

first,
if u wanna make folr u dont need a fuge.take out those bioball u dont need them...
i would recomend to get a good skimmer,thats very important imo.

mike

 

[bikereef]

The section for the skimmer is real small about 7x12, the skimmer I've been looking at is the ASM G-2 and it has an 8.5X10" foot print so I will need to open up first section, any suggestions on getting crylic sheet glued on correcty/cleanly? tks

 

[Mantis806]

silicon doesn't bond as well to silicon as well as it does with glass. but i use acrylic and the bonds seem to hold up well. you have to first make sure the surface and all glued edges are nice and clean. i'm sure there's many ways of doings this, but i first drew a line on the outside of the tank on where the partition would be going. then i ran a bead of silicon along that line. then i slid the partition into place and ran a bead of silicon on both sides of the partition on where it meets the tank. then i used my finger to gently press the silicon into the corner and smoothing it at the same time. from what i've read, it's not good to have bubbles in the silicon and pressing the silicon into the joint solves that.

 

[bikereef]

Thanks Mantis, I will try and redo the compartments I guess I can use the edge of a blade (new) to remove old silicone.

Mshur, I thought the fuge benefits the tank when fish and live rock are in there?

Thanks again.

 

[jhale]

the fuge is for growing small pods and such that smaller reef fish eat. people also keep macro algae to help keep the nitrate and phosphate levels down. at least it's supposed to help. you need to get the right algae and have the right light to work. if you get it wrong the algae could die, and release all the harmful stuff it's collected back into the water, bad.
I've used silicone and acrylic in my sumps, it always fails after a few years, I would not recommend it. I just got some glass cut for the new sump I made out of my old 55. The glass and silicone combo is not going anywhere. you might want to redo the whole sump and just start fresh, it's not hard now that your tank is not set up, and it could save you a lot of hassle down the road. there is a great site on setting up sumps and fuges here:
http://www.melevsreef.com/make_a_sump.html
make sure you click the link at the bottom of the page, he has a huge amount of helpful info! good luck.

 

[jackson6745]

Welcome to Manhattan Reefs!


Jhale the overflow on this tank (72gal bow?) will not be able to keep up with the mag 18 unless severly restricted. I also see many unnecessary elbows in your plumbing.

I would go with a mag 9.5 (less heat and electricity) for return and remove all the unnecessary elbows from your plumbing. I would also change the return outlets in your tank to loclines (much easier to maintain and will allow for better flow through the tank).

The idea is you will get more for less

PS the bioballs serve no purpose...wasted space

[ February 03, 2005, 07:14 PM: Message edited by: jackson6745 ]

 

[bikereef]

Thanks Jakson, where do I find the lock lines? I am not very knowledgeable the fish tank plumbing but am eager to learn.

Is there anyway I can make the mag 18 work? I am wanting to do a reef tank eventually (if it makes any difference). It is a 72G BowF.

Thanks!

[ February 03, 2005, 07:49 PM: Message edited by: bikereef ]

 

[jackson6745]

Bikereef, basically any bend or turn in a pipe will create resistance and slow flow. A 45% elbow will allow more than a 90% elbow. Limiting the amount these turns, and using 45%'s instead of 90%'s in the pipe can make a HUGE difference in flow.

The mag 18 will work fine but you will have to restrict it with a ball valve so your overflow can keep up with it.

this will give you an idea on the amount of flow you have from the return pump with your current plumbing
Calculator

You can buy lockline here
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=lockline

 

[bikereef]

So to be clear the plumbing will remain PVC, only eliminating the hard 90% bends to 45%s where possible, this is right?

The pump's outlet goes into a ball valve about a foot up, should the valve be closer to the pump, does it matter?

Also, I've removed the sump and will redo the sections into viable compartments, for a 30G sump/fuge what is the ideal height of the 'walls' and baffles? Moreover once the tank is up and running what is the ideal water mark height, how do i figure it out?

Thanks,
Carlos

 

[Mantis806]

the baffel walls can basically be any hieght you want it to be. but the major consideration is the water level your skimmer requires. you should also consider whether you want a sandbed in the refuge area, b/c this will effect the total wate volume in the refuge. there should be a compromise on the water level and amount of volume left in your sump once it is filled. you want to leave some extra volume in the sump for when the pumps are off and some of the extra water from the display runs into your sump. this is also good for any potential pump failures when you're not home. it will be a good buffer for holding extra water. there's a lot to consider, but i think melevsreef.com sums it up pretty well. hope i didn't confuse you too much.

 

[jackson6745]

Originally posted by bikereef:
So to be clear the plumbing will remain PVC, only eliminating the hard 90% bends to 45%s where possible, this is right?

YES THIS IS CORRECT

The pump's outlet goes into a ball valve about a foot up, should the valve be closer to the pump, does it matter?

DOESN'T MATTER

Also, I've removed the sump and will redo the sections into viable compartments, for a 30G sump/fuge what is the ideal height of the 'walls' and baffles? Moreover once the tank is up and running what is the ideal water mark height, how do i figure it out?

THE MINIMUM HEIGHT MUST BE ENOUGH TO KEEP THE PUMP SUBMERGED, MAXIMUM WOULD BE AT THE POINT YOUR SUMP OVERFLOWS WHEN THE RETURN PUMP IS SHUT DOWN (CREATES A SIPHON). AS LONG AS YOU'RE IN BETWEEN THERE SOMEWHERE, IT DOESN'T MATTER. KEEP IN MIND THAT SKIMMERS DO HAVE SUGGESTED WATER HEIGHTS FOR BEST PERFORMANCE, AND IF YOU HAVE A FUGE YOU WILL WANT TO KEEP MORE WATER FOR MACROS TO GROW.

[ February 03, 2005, 09:56 PM: Message edited by: jackson6745 ]