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jdnumis

Advanced Reefer
Location
Long Island
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73   0   0
Nitrate-0 (water never changed color)

PH-7.8

Calcium-300mg/l

Phosphate- 0.8

Alkalinity- 4.0 meq/l

Salinity- 1.022

**This is my first water testing!

Hope my numbers are OK!

Can you guys give me some feedback please?

Thank you and here is my pic of the tank after 1 month. My hair algae problem died off a bit but will still need my CUC. I know I still need rock and will get it in the near future.

~James
 

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basiab

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Location
secret
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I assume that ammonia and nitrates are also zero and that both were up some time during the cycle. You might want the salt closer to 1.025. The rock you add may cause another cycle. So get that out the the way before you add any animals.
 

aznt1217

Forever Noob
Location
Bayside
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Been following your threads. Good attention to detail. Go ahead and add a few snails.

If you add in cured Live Rock that has stayed wet for the duration of time it takes to get in the tank, at most you will have a mini cycle that will take about a week.
 

masterswimmer

Old School Reefer
Vendor
Location
NY
Rating - 99.6%
450   2   0
Nitrate-0 (water never changed color)

PH-7.8

Calcium-300mg/l

Phosphate- 0.8

Alkalinity- 4.0 meq/l

Salinity- 1.022


As asked previously, your ammonia and nitrite are hopefully zero and you did see a spike prior to the zero reading.

Your Nitrate is spot on :)

Your pH is a bit low. Shoot for 8.0-8.3

Your calcium is very low for a reef. You should raise it to 420-460

Phosphate is high. You can use media such as Phosban or Rowaphos to lower it.

Alkalinity is ok but right on the high side of acceptable. So be cautious and test often while making changes to your pH and calcium.

Your salinity is fine for a FO tank. If you're setting up a reef you might want to consider raising the salinity to 1.025-1.026

Before adding any critters to your tank, you should add all the live rock you'll be adding to reduce the effects of the pending cycle.

Good luck,
Russ
 

jdnumis

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Location
Long Island
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Thanks Russ. I have a couple of quick questions though. How do I raise the Calcium? As for the phosphates, I have a phosban reactor currently running with no media yet. LFS told me to put media in it as soon as I put livestock in it. That was my first test because I was a little intimidated at first, I guess I wanted to wait. Thanks for all your help

PS I will add more salt to get it up to par! :)

~James
 

masterswimmer

Old School Reefer
Vendor
Location
NY
Rating - 99.6%
450   2   0
Thanks Russ. I have a couple of quick questions though. How do I raise the Calcium? As for the phosphates, I have a phosban reactor currently running with no media yet. LFS told me to put media in it as soon as I put livestock in it. That was my first test because I was a little intimidated at first, I guess I wanted to wait. Thanks for all your help

PS I will add more salt to get it up to par! :)

~James

James,
Your questions one at a time:
How do you raise the Calcium? I wish all the questions were this easy. I would recommend picking up the ESV B-Ionic 2part solutions. These 2 parts are calcium and Alkalinity. They are normally dosed in conjunction with each other, but never at the same time and absolutely never dosed in the same general vicinity of each other. Most people will does those two parts as alkalinity in the morning and calcium at night. Makes the tank more stable doing it this way. Make sure you're testing before every single dose. The last thing you want to do is overdose causing you to overshoot your target # and have to start lowering the parameter you were just trying to raise ten minutes ago.

Phosban Reactor is perfect to run Phosban/Rowaphos or even a GFO. The key to success with a media reactor to run Phosban is to make sure your water flow through the phosban is SLOW. When you think you've got it slow, turn it down. Running 50-60 gph through the media is right on target. All you want the media to do is have the very top layer of phosban exhibit a very low, tiny 'rumble' effect. Nothing more.

I also like to run carbon in a Phosban Reactor (separate reactor though). Carbon will remove toxins in the water, yellowing in the water and improve the overall condition and appearance of the water in the tank. We use ESV carbon exclusively. After you've changed out your carbon, you'll see after about 2-3 hours, the water will have taken on a 'polished' appearance. Almost as if the fish are just floating in the air with no water in the tank. Please keep in mind this is just an analogy I'm offering you, but it is an analogy that many people in the hobby use. So it must have some merit.

If you have any other questions, please feel free to shoot me a PM or even call me if you'd like. My phone # is in my signature of every post on MR. :)

I'm really glad to see you doing your research and investigation before jumping in and spending oodles of money on a lot of wasted equipment.

Good luck,
Russ
 

jdnumis

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Location
Long Island
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Thank you so much for the advice Russ. I really want to know as much as possible before making a huge mistake and wasting a lot of money.
 

aznt1217

Forever Noob
Location
Bayside
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FYI Russ is the man. Of course you know that though.

Anyway, I can't seem to understand why your Ca is so low. I don't know of any salt that ships like that. You can utilize liquid calcium and see how it affects the other parameters.
 

seldin

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Location
New York
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Not sure if you are doing this, but I would continue to monitor nitrite for a while. Otherwise, if you go through another cycle, you may not be aware of it.

As per other suggestions, I like PH at 8.3, calcium I like between 400 - 450 and your salinity I suggest to be at 1.025. As far as Phosphates, if you already have phosphates, I would be monitoring this weekly, until you are comfortable.
 

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