Recent content by Basssa

My pagoda/cup (plate) is having a problem... in three contained seperate areas it looks as if the "plate" is being destroyed. If I didnt know better it is some type of necrosis of the tissue. The other sections of the surface and other polyps are extended and are thriving. Water conditions...

I use a collaboration of Salifert and Aquarium Systems and Hagen. Is there a "best test" for 1) ease of use, 2) reliability, 3) range...or is just preference. It would be nice to have a self contained kit instead of 8 wet disintegrating cardboard boxes in a drawer. Whatdoes your kit stash...

The Chemi-cleen was brilliant on my Cyano, I second the motion, and would give it a try. Less than 24 hours later it was dissolving and lost its hold on my rock. I used a powerhead to "blow" much of it off and my skimmer is going berzerk! Wonder product? Maybe.

My new Powder Blue Tang isnt acclimating to my 150 gal reef tank with LOTS of hiding space and Live Rock. It was put in 48 hours ago along with a beautifully acclimating (already eating)Sailfin and a cleaner shrimp. The P.B. wont eat, and is hiding, also doing a little bit of "scratching." In...

If you all are interested,the "Kold-Ster-il"... it is sold at this site : http://www.poly-bio-marine.com/ You say that RO is better? I hate to be so naive about an RO unit, but, lets say there is an RO/DI unit, 5 stage, 100 GPD at www.airwaterice.com for only $169. I would think that is a good...

As opposed to RO/DI, I was told that something called a "cold sterile" unit was the "new" thing... I was also told by my LFS that they were sold retail. Comments? Are these units safe, are they better than RO/DI purification and the sad water waste that THEY produce. Thanks! :)

I have heard murmurings that there are other state of the art systems for water purification. I would love some ideas. Living in NJ, it is an inevitablilty that I require something. However, why invest up to several hundred dollars into the RO/DI, when new technology is potentially around the...

About the sponge...Not really, it has been in the sump for about 3 weeks now, I have changed it twice. The toadstool had really been suffering for about 5 days now. It is funny to see it with its "tentacles" outstreached except for small spots where it is being ATTACKED. is there a better way...

OF course, how silly of me to not include specifics. My tank is a 150G, Sal 1.023, I have a phosphate sponge in the Sump, it is a Wet/dry (w/ bio-balls) system, Skimmer, Lighting...I have 6PC, 2 Actinic 4 Daylight all total 576W. Good circulation with 4 powerheads, U.V. as well. Do you think it...

Heres an interesting one... there is something EATING at my BEAUTIFUL Toadstool. It is green/yellowish, and is only in a few spots. It looks like it it leaving an underwater scab. I tried to scrape it off, then I used my finger. When I did so, I realized that there is missing , or damaged or...

I thought the residual bleach actually will dissipate after drying??? Arent those "white" rocks or nice dead coarl pieces sold at LFS "bleached" of their impurities?

I had a similar problem with Hair Algae. I agree with cleaning and filter media. Believe it or not I think the hair algae is thriving on your lighting. The way I rid my tank of Hair algae was to drastically lower the lighting hours daily. Your inverts may not like it too much, but they...

Black powder did nothing but SMELL STINKY. Kinda Like my 9 mo. old's Diper genie...matter of fact, almost exactly like it.

I just thought, that maybe I am misidentifying the stuff. It looks like small air bubbles on the walls of the tank, on the powerheads, on the overflow, rarely on the rock. They really are tiny. I can scrape them off, but they return.

I have some rock left over from my 75 g. tank, about 70 lbs, I would like to add it to my 150 to build up the display. It was reccommended that I soak it in bleach then rinse it VERY well many times, let it dry out, then add it to the tank. Essentially i am trying to kill any of the...