ReefBum

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I would add more fish and make sure you feed enough to both the fish and corals. I do this but I also skim heavily...it's high import/export. You also don't want to keep the tank too sterile with extremely low nitrate and phosphate levels. IMO, you are starving the corals under this scenario. Stable parameters are also key. Check out Reefs Mag....it has my secret sauce :)


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NYreefNoob

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poughquag, ny
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stability is one of the key factor's, close to no phoshates, nitrates ect, and as reefbum said feed your fish, corals get feed from it also as well as the fish's poop., temp of bulb color makes a different also, just because it looks one way in someone else's tank doesnt mean it will look the same in your tank, dont waste ur time with corals food's, no need for them, they get it else where, and if you are running a really low nutrient tank start dosing amino's but in very small dose's
 

cali_reef

Fish and Coral Killer
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I would add more fish and make sure you feed enough to both the fish and corals. I do this but I also skim heavily...it's high import/export. You also don't want to keep the tank too sterile with extremely low nitrate and phosphate levels. IMO, you are starving the corals under this scenario. Stable parameters are also key. Check out Reefs Mag....it has my secret sauce :)


Sent from my iPhone using Reefs

Great suggestions...
 

petraio

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New Jersey
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if I may the color of your lamps are a bit too dark if you want to have brighter color must go closer to a 10k bulb You will loose that nice color that you might like from 20k but...
You will see the lighter color coming back within 4 to 6 weeks ! keeping good parameters !! in wter quality ! the white tip is a sighn that there is growth in your sps! try it it will show lighter colors!! just matter to get used to a 10k or 12k lamp clor! Good Luck
 

MACH5

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Northern NJ
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I would add more fish and make sure you feed enough to both the fish and corals. I do this but I also skim heavily...it's high import/export. You also don't want to keep the tank too sterile with extremely low nitrate and phosphate levels. IMO, you are starving the corals under this scenario. Stable parameters are also key. Check out Reefs Mag....it has my secret sauce :)


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Hi Keith! Yes that's exactly what I think is happening in my tank. I am in the middle of an upgrade right now. I do plan in having lots more fish in the new system. I also feed my tank reef nutrition oyster eggs. I think I may have to up my feedings however. I'll be sure to check Reefs Mag. Many thanks!!
 

MACH5

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Northern NJ
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stability is one of the key factor's, close to no phoshates, nitrates ect, and as reefbum said feed your fish, corals get feed from it also as well as the fish's poop., temp of bulb color makes a different also, just because it looks one way in someone else's tank doesnt mean it will look the same in your tank, dont waste ur time with corals food's, no need for them, they get it else where, and if you are running a really low nutrient tank start dosing amino's but in very small dose's

Yes I have been very stable for a very long time. I'd say at least a year or so. Even though I do feed my corals, I would agree that they may not be necessary since I've seen great SPS systems that use no coral food whatsoever. I am not sure if my system is truly a ULNS. Does the fact that my PO4 is at .03 makes it a ULNS?? How much AAs do you dose per week??
 

MACH5

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Ok here are a couple of pics of what I am talking about. Please excuse their quality. They were taken above water since I do not have a photo box.:frown: The best example is the first pic (valida). As you can see the tips are colorful but the body is a plain pale brown. In other tanks this coral has a nice iridescent green/bluish base.

The second pic is of the Atl. A. Mirabilis. This coral is supposed to have green on its base that contrasts beautifully with the red/pink polyps. As you can see I do have the red polyps but sadly no green.:irked:
 

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juiceguy

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brooklyn
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i agree on the feeding approach but i think also you are running 20k MH with VHO which is to much in the blue spectrum. did you ever try 10k or 14k halides with the VHO's?
 

NYreefNoob

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Location
poughquag, ny
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not that i am one for check parms, i go by how my corals look and over the years ive learnt to judge my system off a few different pieces. mag is just as important as cal or alk, when i did run MH i used phoinex 14k bulbs gave me color and growth, what did u use to test phosphates ? how long are you running your lights ? MH and VHO ? where are your nitrate's ? and what kits are u using and how old are they ? the red table looks good, that piece is kinda like the ora red planet, too much light and you lose the green down lower you get the green but red usually not as popping
 

MACH5

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Northern NJ
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i agree on the feeding approach but i think also you are running 20k MH with VHO which is to much in the blue spectrum. did you ever try 10k or 14k halides with the VHO's?

Yes I have in the past tried 10k and 14k. With the 20k the growth is slower but I am happier with the overall color. :smile:
 

MACH5

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Northern NJ
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not that i am one for check parms, i go by how my corals look and over the years ive learnt to judge my system off a few different pieces. mag is just as important as cal or alk, when i did run MH i used phoinex 14k bulbs gave me color and growth, what did u use to test phosphates ? how long are you running your lights ? MH and VHO ? where are your nitrate's ? and what kits are u using and how old are they ? the red table looks good, that piece is kinda like the ora red planet, too much light and you lose the green down lower you get the green but red usually not as popping

I run my mh for 8 hrs/day and vhos for 12 hrs/day.

I test PO4 with a Hanna meter.

Just tested my NO3 (Salifert) and I got somewhere btw 0 and 0.1 ppm. I wonder if this is too low for good color??

Overall my test kits are all fairly new. I mostly use Elos, LaMotte and API.

My Mirabilis is located way at the top of my tank. So yes this may explain why I don't have any green on this particular piece.
 

NYreefNoob

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Location
poughquag, ny
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one thing i noticed when i used mh was when i ran them for less time i had better results, most corals only recieve around 3 hr's of intense lighting a day, i ran mine 5 hr's on mh and 8 for attinic
 

mellotang

Junior Member
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IN my experience SPS need some nutrients in the water. Most ULNS have pastel washed out colors, probably cause light penetrates the water better, therefor less zooxanthellae, algae or "color", is produced by coral due to increased efficiency.

Even though you will hear SPS thrive in nutrient poor environments its kinda a double edge sword. Of course the ocean will appear nutrient poor, its a huge ocean. Its as if you have a 5000 gallon system, it will be a long time before nutrients build up to a problematic level. Same thing in the ocean, its the biggest aquarium ever, think about how much food you would have to put in to contaminate the system...Doesn't mean there is a lack of nutrients there though, its a balance. Think about the all the diverse life forms on the reef, living, dying, eating, expelling waste, reproducing, competing, 24/7. Lots of nutrients in the water to sustain life, its just the water volume is soooooo large its not at toxic levels.

So I guess what Im trying to say is when we try to duplicate the ocean in out glass boxes its all about balance and stability. Don't want to over strip your system and leave it deprived of nutrients, also don't want nasty yellow water, algae growth and corals that die.

I have had SPS with intense deep dark coloration and a higher than normal nitrate level, growth will slow though. Im all for stripping systems of phosphate, but i think some nitrate is not the worst thing. Kh, Ca, Ph, Salinity, dissolved oxygen all very important, when these are stable then worry about other elements such as potassium, iodine...

SPS corals, mainly Acropora are voracious predators. The animal has 90% of its body dedicated to capturing prey. How do you eat in a ULN system???


Again this is only my experience
 
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I believe Its the lighting, duration & color temp I run 2 175watt 10k for 11 hrs and a 400watt 14k for 8hrs over my 36wx36dx25h (140g) sps. I also feed my corals cyclopeeze and brightwells zooplanktos L daily... overall I feel your duration and color temp needs to be adressed
 

FaviaFreak

Aquarium Village
Location
Copiague, NY
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I would add more fish and make sure you feed enough to both the fish and corals. I do this but I also skim heavily...it's high import/export. You also don't want to keep the tank too sterile with extremely low nitrate and phosphate levels. IMO, you are starving the corals under this scenario. Stable parameters are also key. Check out Reefs Mag....it has my secret sauce :)


Sent from my iPhone using Reefs

excellent advice! I couldn't agree more with you :)
 

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