cmantis

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Are each tank for specific coral or are they all mixed?

They are mixed. I should be back in the states soon so can check it out and post some pictures. The tanks haven't been stocked for very long maybe two weeks.

photofeb2451912pmhdr.jpg


I cleaned the glass and it looks much better but the top tank was much cleaner.
 
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cmantis

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Here are the net tops I made thanks to the help of nanoreefer22 after seeing his. These were the instructions:

"From HD you can get the items below:
Screen Roller
Screen frame (I got brown, it matches pretty well to black frames) http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UR99I2f7FKI
25ft of Screen spline
4 corner pieces for each frame you plan to make

To make them, I measured the total length I had, subtracted the added length of the corners (believe it's about 1.25 inches each) and I cut them. I made sure it fit in the tank trim as I was doing it."

photofeb1780524pmhdr.jpg
 
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Thank you for the rack idea. It's completely unrelated but I was going to make a wooden stand for two 40 breeders containing bearded dragons but I will just buy some racks. Where did you get the racks from? And how did you know they would support the weight?
 

cmantis

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Here are some more:

What is this in the center is it just macro that came up from my sump (should I kill it off)?
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This is supposed to be a toadstool (on left) is it dead, just not opening up or not a toadstool at all?
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cmantis

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Ok the 'algae' in the top picture has been positively identified as bryopsis. From what I am reading this is satans algae and very hard to get rid of. Any tips or advice? Here is what I have found:

1. Get enough Tech M to do the job. Do not use mag sulfate or mag chloride to raise the mag level so you don't have to use as much Tech M. If you do this you are not adding the trace element or whatever is in the Tech M that actually kills the Bryopsis. Start from whatever your mag level is and raise it only using Tech M.

2. Get a quality test kit, like an Elos or a Salifert. Test every day when you are raising mag levels and when you are maintaining mag levels. Salifert test kits only read to 1500 ppm, so when you know your mag levels are over 1500, you add 1 ml of the #3 reagent and then draw up another 1 ml per the instructions. When you get the color change, reference the chart for the ppm, then add 1500 to this for the total ppm.

3. If you use them, I would eliminate the use of any Poly Filters or the like during the time you are raising the Mag level to 1800 with Tech M until the time your mag level drops to 1350 as described in step 6. Poly filters can remove metals, and since no one knows, you might remove the trace element that is actually killing the bryopsis if you use poly filters. Carbon is fine.

4. Raise your magnesium with Tech M by 100 ppm/day until you reach 1800. Test every day and maintain this level in your reef for two weeks straight. Do not do any water changes during this time. If you do water changes, then make sure you add enough Tech M to the tank to maintain the mag at 1800. The idea is to get enough exposure time at that level so whatever trace element is killing the Bryopsis has enough time to work.

The 1800 mag level is an indirect indicator of the concentration whatever trace element in the Tech M is killing the Bryopsis. Length of exposure at the right concentration seems to be the key to eliminating vs just suppressing the Bryopsis.

5. If you have a lot of Bryopsis in your tank, manually remove as much as possible when it starts to weaken and die. This will eliminate/minimize an ammonia spike that can result from the decaying Bryopsis.

6. After you have maintained a mag level of 1800 for two weeks, start doing your normal water changes. Do not do them more often that usual. You will have elevated magnesium levels for a period after wards, several weeks probably. This is not an issue. Let the level come back to the normal 1350 or so thru regular water changes and use by the corals.
 
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bertyboy69

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I had troubke with this algae , it was only on 2 rocks so i was abke to pull them out and soak them in some hydroken peroxide/water mix for maybe 30 min , all the coraline dies off but its worth it quick way to get rid of it, others have dosed their whole tank with peroxide but it does affect some corals ita better if you can get the rock out without coral

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Reefs
 

cmantis

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I have noticed a strange phenomenon going on in my tanks. The snails in one tank will be doing one thing at night (ie all on the glass) while in the other something different (ie on the rocks) and then another night it will be opposite. Mind you all tanks are plumbed together so water parameters and equipment etc is all the same. Do they follow a group mentality or something or why would they be opposites?
 

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