yeah im building my own canopy...another member was going to do it for me but he doesnt know how to use power tools and i didnt want blood all over mine :tongue1:
yeah finally alex LOL
What you got on my 40 Homie!!!
- Thread starter JHOV2324
- Start date
yeah im building my own canopy...another member was going to do it for me but he doesnt know how to use power tools and i didnt want blood all over mine :tongue1:
yeah finally alex LOL
- Location
- 11756
Jhov, you sure you not gonna end up with your own blood on those power tools?
:lol:
Congrats Hov..looking forward to seeing this finished
Don't forget hose clamps where you are using those barbs...
hose clamps on barbs.....do i put clamps on both ends? cause i cant even pull out the hose thats connected to the ball valve...very tight :flirt:
- Location
- Flushing, NY
I would've made the filter socks a little bit lower. Once they clog, water might start splashing out of the sump depending on how fast the water is flowing
- Location
- Flushing, NY
do i put clamps on both ends? cause i cant even pull out the hose thats connected to the ball valve...very tight :flirt:
Yes, hose clamp on both ends. You can't pull it out now, but when that hose gets old and stiff, it comes out pretty easily and you don't want a surprise one day
Last edited:
- Location
- poughquag, ny
hmmm so to have a serious tank it needs to be big ? looking good so far hoover
I'll explain the plumbing in case u want to copy :biggrin:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/borntodie23/rearplumb.jpg
2 1" bulkheads 1 drain 1 return w/ loc-line
I used 1" Flex-Spa on the drain so i can move it more freely when i change my filter socks, I should be changing the elbow to a 1" "T" soon.
1" 90 Degree elbow off the return, inside that elbow is a 1" - 3/4" bushing which reduces my return plumbing to 3/4" all the way down to the pump and before the pump there is a Union and a ball valve. union is to remove pump for cleaning. Ball valve is to close off the return during water changes.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/borntodie23/manifold2.jpg
On the return line you will see the "T" which leads to the manifold i added a 40 degree elbow and in the elbow there is a 3/4"-1/2" bushing after that i put a ball valve so i can turn off both reactors at once so i dont have to mess with the tuning of the phosban. I placed a ball valve for each reactor in case i ever had to just close one or the other. After the ball valves i have a slip to screw coupler so i can screw in the hose barbs. At the end of the manifold i put a Cap to close it off...im thinking i should have put an elbow but im tired of going back and forth to Home Depot and its already made Manifold is 1/2" to accomodate the reactors hose fittings.
and thats it :tongue1:
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/borntodie23/rearplumb.jpg
2 1" bulkheads 1 drain 1 return w/ loc-line
I used 1" Flex-Spa on the drain so i can move it more freely when i change my filter socks, I should be changing the elbow to a 1" "T" soon.
1" 90 Degree elbow off the return, inside that elbow is a 1" - 3/4" bushing which reduces my return plumbing to 3/4" all the way down to the pump and before the pump there is a Union and a ball valve. union is to remove pump for cleaning. Ball valve is to close off the return during water changes.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/borntodie23/manifold2.jpg
On the return line you will see the "T" which leads to the manifold i added a 40 degree elbow and in the elbow there is a 3/4"-1/2" bushing after that i put a ball valve so i can turn off both reactors at once so i dont have to mess with the tuning of the phosban. I placed a ball valve for each reactor in case i ever had to just close one or the other. After the ball valves i have a slip to screw coupler so i can screw in the hose barbs. At the end of the manifold i put a Cap to close it off...im thinking i should have put an elbow but im tired of going back and forth to Home Depot and its already made
Manifold is 1/2" to accomodate the reactors hose fittings.and thats it :tongue1:
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