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duke62

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Funny they say stop bashing these lights but everyone is bashing other brands of leds. My ai are incredible and i can say i have amazing colors and growth im sure these are just as good and will never switch to t5 or halides. All it takes is good maintenence and care and your coral will look incredible no matter what brand of leds you have
 

B.BASH

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Well said i needed 5 units $500 plus for other units was more than iwas willing to spend on lights these lights i believe are around $350 and jimmy is always in touch to make sure i'm satisfied
 

JimmyR1rider

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Funny they say stop bashing these lights but everyone is bashing other brands of leds. My ai are incredible and i can say i have amazing colors and growth im sure these are just as good and will never switch to t5 or halides. All it takes is good maintenence and care and your coral will look incredible no matter what brand of leds you have

Who's bashing other brands?
 

B.BASH

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all i know is i am completely satisfied i have had much better growth and polyp extension than with t5s as far as color i'm also happy with the vibrance of the colors i cannot compare them to other led brands because i have not used any other the only real way to tell is to try each brand on your tank every one will have different results i feel that if your corals are healthy you don't need any special colors in your lights to bring out the color just my 2cents
(if you shine a pink light on a white piece of paper its going to look pink)
 
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Alfredo De La Fe

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In the summer I was paying about $600 for 3 400W MH lights with new electronic ballasts. It's not just the lighting, but the chiller AND the air conditioner you have to run to pull the heat out of the room after the chiller turns the room into an oven.

Alfred

Four 400 watt mh arent going to give you a $1200.00 elect bill
Some one is pulling the wool over your eyes
Dont believe everything you hear
 

JimmyR1rider

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In the summer I was paying about $600 for 3 400W MH lights with new electronic ballasts. It's not just the lighting, but the chiller AND the air conditioner you have to run to pull the heat out of the room after the chiller turns the room into an oven.

Alfred

+1


I loved my halides when I ran them but as you stated it was a compound effect on your bills.
 

Alfredo De La Fe

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Optics are customized by FathomLED. I bought my Pharos about three weeks ago and I am very happy with them. The optics were changed and Jimmy was here until about 4am setting it up and showing me how to program them.

I am pretty impressed by how easy it is to program and how many points I can program. (10 for blue, 10 for white) It also has cloud cover and "lunar cycle", but I personally don't see the need for them or storm simulation.

They are great lights and I DOUBT that any of the other manufacturers went out to customers to do installations at no charge AND followed up and made subsequent visits to check PAR, update firmware and see how things were going for no charge.

Alfred

Lots of criticism here, but a lot of it is due to the lack of information of the Pharos lights compared to other fixtures. More info should have been included in this thread.

Not once were the following useful bits of info included. "Best lights ever" does not fly, and pictures do more harm than good, because they almost never accurately portray what lights look like in person.

-Imported by Pharos in China
-Standard unit is
Cree XPE Blue 3 Watts x 4
Cree XPE Royal Blue 3 Watts x 12
Cree XPG Warm White 5 Watts x 2
Cree XPG Neutral White 5 Watts x 6
-having warm whites and neutrals provide a nice spectrum bump compared to cool white fixtures. XT-E has not caught on in the Chinese market yet, but is more efficient.
-wireless controller
-A violet option would be good to carry, but Cree does not make violet
60 degree optics used (great for deep tanks, but a very narrow beam)

This all needs to be taken into consideration when choosing lights.
 

nuch

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I got Chinese leds over my little 30 gallon and there the the best. Lol. Jk. Hey what ever works for ya.I have easy lps and fish and everything is happy and growing. I'm not running a skimmer on this tank, that doesn't mean no one should. It's just my choice and it works for me. It's kinda like the great debate of leds & t5's. What ever works for the person and there preference is not gonna be the same for the next. I do agree though it shouldn't be said that there the best, maybe there the best he ever had.
 

DCG1286

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That's a close up shot of my chalice one piece in my 250 full tank shot posted by jonnyj ALSO JONNY TOOK THOSE SHOTS WHILE THE LIGHTS WERE RAMPING DOWN PROBABLY ABOUT 40% BLUE 10% WHITE


I was about to ask what percentage the lights were at when those photos were taken. Thanks for posting that.

What did he use to take those photos?
 

MeanGreenEyes

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Brooklyn, NY
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+1... IMO, the only test that might work, would be all lighting systems over 1 tank/system so that there are less variables

Since I have the GHL Mitras over my 40 and 2 30's plumbed into this system...I'm willing to pick up a Pharos for 1 of the 30's and throw AI's over the other 30 and put it to a test. I was planning on getting a cheaper LED unit for my macro fuges anyway. I've been wanting to get rid of the t5's anyway because of the heat. It's a Current Nova Extreme 6 bulb and it gets hot as h3ll. Will slap an mp10 on each of the 30's to match flow with the 40B.

I was seriously considering Fathom LEDS when I upgraded, but ultimately chose the Mitras. I'm not going to go fully into detail on my decision, but I did a lot of research/reading.

If you guys think this would be a fair test...lmk.
 

Marteen

Meow?
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+1... IMO, the only test that might work, would be all lighting systems over 1 tank/system so that there are less variables
I think you guys are making this too difficult. The best way to test it would be to use one stable system. Then use one set of lights for 3 months, the next light for 3 months, and the next light for 3 months. Then compare before and after photos to see the differences. You could also perform this test simultaneously over several tanks with different combinations of the lights to remove any testing error. Also, each tank would need a control for 3 months with say a MH or T5's as the control.
 

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