Reef Temp
- Thread starter Cibo
- Start date
- Location
- Flushing, NY
SPS, LPS, some softies
Low of 77, high of 82
Its not regulated anywhere in between. Saves electric
Low of 77, high of 82
Its not regulated anywhere in between. Saves electric
- Location
- long island
82 at night 84 during the day 
probably too high for some people.
probably too high for some people.
- Location
- Long Island, New York
76-79 all year round...I have bolth SPS and LPS
you want a ,minimal temp change possible. find the high your tank gets to when your lights are on and set your heater to that so it does not change at night. above 80 is bad, below 75 is bad. try keeping it between 78 and 79. The higher the temp the faster the corals grow because their metabolism goes up, yes corals have a metabolism. but the faster they grow the less dense they are and can break and frag easier fyi
- Location
- Jackson Heights, Queens
75 sps
- Location
- Brooklyn, NY
76-78 all year. Occasionally it dips a tad lower-like earlier this week when it was freezing outside. My anemone/clam system gets to 80 pretty regularly without issue.
OzoneParkGuy
Advanced Reefer
- Location
- Ozone Park
+ 1 @ 76-79 Predominatly SPS
- Location
- Garden city
I have had some temp issues b4 but put a fan on a timer to come on and off with my halides and added 2 heaters now it stays between 77 and 79
Sent from my iPhone using Reefs
Sent from my iPhone using Reefs
- Location
- Huntington
82 degrees and change is the average wild reef temp. Some get up to around 85 and the most biologically diverse reefs do tend to be the ones that are at or near 85 degrees. When I had my reef tank it was almost entirely sps and I would keep it at around 82 with dips down to 78 at night. You will get faster growth at higher temps as long as your parameters are in line because the temp does act like a dial for the metabolism of the fish and inverts. Calcification does become much faster as well so skeletal growth becomes far less dense at higher temps and they can become brittle. LPS don't have to be as high since most come from greater depth than the SPS species.
There are other factors to consider like electrical usage at higher temps, more dosing of calcium and alk. additives as well as trace elements to keep up with the demand, the needs of certain livestock that might not be able or rather, shouldn't be exposed to higher temps, etc. It's best to keep the swings to a minimum and use the heaters to maintain a temp just below what the tank gets up to during the day if you don't use a chiller (which in my opinion is one of the most over used and potentially problem causing pieces of equipment out there).
You also want to consider the extremes. If we consider 85 as being the "high" end than you are going to want to give yourself a little breathing room and keep it down just in case. There is a max temp at which point the livestock can no longer stand it. I'm not sure what that point is but what claims most tanks that "overheat" is in fact the speed at which the change occurrs. For instance, a 4 degree change over the course of an entire day isn't going to do much damage but when you take that change and make it happen over the course of an hour, things are going to die even if that 4 degree difference is within the acceptable range.
There are other factors to consider like electrical usage at higher temps, more dosing of calcium and alk. additives as well as trace elements to keep up with the demand, the needs of certain livestock that might not be able or rather, shouldn't be exposed to higher temps, etc. It's best to keep the swings to a minimum and use the heaters to maintain a temp just below what the tank gets up to during the day if you don't use a chiller (which in my opinion is one of the most over used and potentially problem causing pieces of equipment out there).
You also want to consider the extremes. If we consider 85 as being the "high" end than you are going to want to give yourself a little breathing room and keep it down just in case. There is a max temp at which point the livestock can no longer stand it. I'm not sure what that point is but what claims most tanks that "overheat" is in fact the speed at which the change occurrs. For instance, a 4 degree change over the course of an entire day isn't going to do much damage but when you take that change and make it happen over the course of an hour, things are going to die even if that 4 degree difference is within the acceptable range.
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Most LPS come from greater Depths than SPS??? That's news to me. Most SPS live in Deeper waters than LPS, The deeper water also helps to filter out the red and yellows from the sun, and the Blue reaches deeper which SPS love.
- Location
- Huntington
I also, forgot to mention that at higher temps oxygen in solution levels become much lower so you need to rely on greater water flow to help keep the gas exchange up.
Jaa1456, would you mind citing your source on that one? I'm just really curious where you got that bit of information from. I would love to know where in the world, at low tide, one can walk among colonies of acans and blastos... You might want to pick up a book I hear that's where the smart people hide information like this.
Jaa1456, would you mind citing your source on that one? I'm just really curious where you got that bit of information from. I would love to know where in the world, at low tide, one can walk among colonies of acans and blastos... You might want to pick up a book I hear that's where the smart people hide information like this.
- Location
- Long Island
78
- Location
- Midtown East, Manhattan
76-78 lps and softies. I have 2 or 3 tiny sps pieces that aren't thriving, but aren't dying either.
- Location
- Ozone Park, Queens
79.1 winter---80.5 summer
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