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albano

Saltwater since 1973
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I'm sure there are alot of Tips, Tricks, and Time Savers that we all have, and probably don't even think to tell others about them.
So, here's your chance to help Reefers, the world over! If you have something to share, a pic may help, along with your best explanation

So for starters...
Pic 1
How about calibrating your 'easy to use' hydrometers, every month or so, with your refractometer... a little piece of tape can mark the spot, so you will quickly see if the salinity is 'spot on'! (the little white arrow is 1.026, I'm at 1.025 now)

Pic 2
I marked the side of my tank and sump, so I know exactly how many gallons I've emptied for a water change. With the right pump and hose I can do a 30-90g water change in minutes

Pic 3
plugs and timers are marked/labeled, so I can quickly 'pull the plug' on a problem. The pic shows blue tape on the timer for my 'blue' bulbs

Pic 4 (BONUS 2fer)
I used a magic marker on a skimmer gate valve dial, to make it easier to know how much of an adjustment (dial in) was made...:shhh: sometimes I adjust for a very 'wet' skim just before a water change

also shows green air line valve, that I use to constantly drip in RO/DI top off...has worked perfect for past 7 years...similar air line valves are used for 'drip acclimation' of new fish.
 

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wonderballz

Advanced Reefer
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Great tips! I did the tape and gallon marking in my sump so I could dial in how much overflow the sump could handle and realized that it is perfect for knowing how much to top off into my return chamber. I still need to label my cords and such, and I have to calibrate my swing arm hydrometer.

I also set up my ATO with my reefkeeper lite. It turns on my aqualifter for 9 minutes every 7.5 hours and this is perfect. So far it has kept my water level constant. Obviously, as the weather changes, so will my evap, but can be dialed in pretty quickly, and won't top off more than the 5G bucket of water it is sitting in. At some point I will include float switches just as a fail-safe, but this seems to be working well so far.
 

Alex

Pretzel in Orange M&M
Location
staten island
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Great tips. Most people don't calibrate their refractometers,I check My salinity every other day so I calibrate monthly.

I also mark my sump water level and they water level on my top off.

My tank is marked at 5 gallon intervals up to 25 gallons. like Albano mentioned it makes water changes easier.

with so many plugs providing electricity to our tanks , it's very easy to plug or unplug the wrong one. I label my plugs with small tape strips and a sharpie. this way you don't pull the wrong plug.
 
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irvp13

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Location
Ridgewood NY
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This is great! Its always good know how other people are doing things to get more ideas and improve them. I have a bunch of things to mark and label now!!

quick question, what do you use to stop the water from the tank over filling the sump in the case of a power outage or turning the return pump off?
I have used check valves but the solution dont last long for some reason. Do you have any tips on that matter?

Thanks
 

fishman1069

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Location
Sound Beach,LI
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This is great! Its always good know how other people are doing things to get more ideas and improve them. I have a bunch of things to mark and label now!!

quick question, what do you use to stop the water from the tank over filling the sump in the case of a power outage or turning the return pump off?
I have used check valves but the solution dont last long for some reason. Do you have any tips on that matter?

Thanks
Ive always popped a hole in the return, just below the water line. It causes the return to suck air and stop the back siphon. I did it by heating up a paperclip and pushing it right thru the plastic. Make sure that you reem the hole out every couple of water changes, so it dosent clog up. The reason you are having trouble with the check valves is they tend to get calcium deposits and other stuff stuck in them, which make them stop performing on par. HTH
 

irvp13

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Location
Ridgewood NY
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Ive always popped a hole in the return, just below the water line. It causes the return to suck air and stop the back siphon. I did it by heating up a paperclip and pushing it right thru the plastic. Make sure that you reem the hole out every couple of water changes, so it dosent clog up. The reason you are having trouble with the check valves is they tend to get calcium deposits and other stuff stuck in them, which make them stop performing on par. HTH


Thanks Man, I'm going to try this out.
 

Alex

Pretzel in Orange M&M
Location
staten island
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Thanks Man, I'm going to try this out.

A better way is to use drill bits. start small until you have reached the correct size. also drill two holes, in case one is clogged or a snail is parked on one. The best way to check it is to unplug the pump every time you make the hole bigger.
 

albano

Saltwater since 1973
Staff member
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You forgot the water level labels on the other overflow that are labeled (I think) good, problem and big problem lol
OK, since I got called out by 4-2-nato, Pic 1, is my corner overflow, my grandson likes to check the water level, when he gets home from school... I marked it clearly, so he knows when to call me at work!

Pic 2
Important tip for people with a basement sump... wire in a remote 'KILL' switch, to shut off the return pump from upstairs...an 1800 gph pump is pumping 30g a minute...do you really want to wait till you get down there?
 

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masterswimmer

Old School Reefer
Vendor
Location
NY
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Pic 2
Important tip for people with a basement sump... wire in a remote 'KILL' switch, to shut off the return pump from upstairs...an 1800 gph pump is pumping 30g a minute...do you really want to wait till you get down there?


Great idea but also a huge disaster (created by some unknowing twit) waiting to happen. I wouldn't recommend that kill switch without a switch cover for accidental protection.

swimmer
 

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Imbarrie

PADI Dive Inst
Location
New York
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My skimmer collection cup has to line up in just the right spot in order to remove it for cleaning. I have a waste collector but I like a clean skimmer. But I end up turning that hunting for the magic spot.
I marked the cup and the body of the skimmer with some of wifeys bright color nail polish so I know exactly where to align them. Saves a lot of effort.
 

wonderballz

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I haven't gotten around to it but mgny. Keeps alarms that go off when water touches them around the base of his display tank they sell them at home depot for around 15$


Sent from my iPhone using Reefs

I need to get a couple more alarms myself. I have one in my stand, but I could use one on the floor and one for my rodi bucket. I place the leads of mine about 6" from the to of my fresh water bucket when I'm making rodi so that I know when the bucket is almost full.



Sent from my PC36100 using Reefs
 

Paul B

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I ran wires from my GFI in PVC pipe under my skimmer and under my tank. My pumps are plugged into these GFI receptacles. If the skimmer leaks or if the tank leaks the wires get wet and turn off the GFI, shutting off the pumps.
I also have one in my skimmer effluent bucket that turns off the skimmer pump is the bucket fills.
There is also one under my water heater for my house, if that leaks, (God Forbid)
It turns off an electric valve to shut water to the heater that is also plugged into a GFI but that is not reef related.
Doing it this way is of course not legal but I was an electrician for 40 years so I can get away with it :smash:
 
Location
Huntington
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Refractometers save time. You can easily and far more accurately test your water with a refractometer in a fraction of the time it takes you to fill 3 hydrometers. You can't calibrate a hydrometer with a refractometer because hydrometers are more susceptible to temperature effecting the readings. If I'm not mistaken most reef hydrometers are "calibrated" at 75-77F (you need to know what standard yours uses some could even be 60F) and if the temp of the sample being tested is off from that you will get an improper reading (good write up on advanced aquarist here). Using a refractometer to calibrate your hydrometer isn't giving you any better of an idea of what your levels are if you aren't taking the proper steps to correct the hydro.
 

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