HOW DO I KEEP sump from overflowing if pump shuts down

[spacenyc]

setting up my first sump with overflow. have a 120 drilled tank and when i shut pump off to rearange some stuff water started draining into sump. luckly i was there but what can i do to prevent water overflowing if electrity goes out

 

[albano]

have enough room in sump for extra water, or have extra overflow drain to divert extra water to another tank/storage/waste

 

[Tim]

You have to take water out of you sump(about an inch below the top of the sump) then turn back on your pump and it should be good after that. Once it is running mark your water level in the sump and this will be you fill line so when your water evaporates you will keep it topped off at this mark.I hope this makes sense.....

 

[ClosetFishGeek]

have enough room in sump for extra water, or have extra overflow drain to divert extra water to another tank/storage/waste

+1

 

[Bob 1000]

Get an adequate size sump.. Turn the water flow on, then turn off to see what level the water is at. Then you make a line wherever the water is onc eyou have turned it on..

 

[Klewis]

I put a check valve on my return line. This prevents the return nozzels from siphoning water from the display tank back into the sump. To test how much water is actually going into the sump during a power outage lift the return nozzels above the water level and turn off the power. Do not get a check valve that is spring activated, the salt water will corrode it preventing it from functioning correctly. This is the one that i have on my system I like it because it is clear and i can see that it is functioning. Plus its a union so you can use it to disconnect the return pump from the system just make sure you have a shut of valve between the check valve and the tank. http://www.marinedepot.com/True_Union_Swing_Check_Valve_(FPT_x_FPT)_True_Union_Swing_Check_Valves-Spears-FT9244-FIFTVLTC-vi.html

Good Luck
Keith

 

[ecvernon]

where do have your return line in your tank? is the return line pointing low in the display tank, causing a siphon effect. if so you could drill anti siphon holes in the return line

 

[dubs]

i got check valve on my system!!! should do the trick put it at the top ur return line so that only a little water back up from ur tank and dont fill ur sump all the way up it give u some room for extra water

 

[Bob 1000]

Don't check valves restrict flow.. If you do it right the first time you won't need these expensive valves that after time don't work anyway,,lol...

 

[dubs]

bob if look at the klewis posted there few kind like that they dont restrist flow at all at least mind dont i paid 10 for my check valve i think if this guys have 120 gal set up he can afford a valve and there r other options but it invalve more plumbing the vavle it the easy to me that it

 

[Klewis]

Don't check valves restrict flow.. If you do it right the first time you won't need these expensive valves that after time don't work anyway,,lol...

The first check valve I used was from the hardware store and was spring activated and did restrict the flow and did stop working. The one that I posted a link for has an increased amount of flow from my previous one and functions fine. I can see it working and the diameter of the flow path is the same if not larger than the diameter of the return tube. The restriction of flow seem minimal and for the peace of mind the $20 is more than worth it, you'll spend more on fish that you'll never see again after you put them in the tank. :tongue1:

What would of been the right way to do it the first time?

 

[Bob 1000]

Simply making sure your sump is of adequate size... When my power is turned off my sump will fill up 3in.. That is the level that I make sure never to go over when filling the sump.. As for fish loss I use a Socting Oxidator which acts like a ozone generator, also keeping O2 levels at 100% at all times provided you have the right model for the size system you run.. So if the power goes out the oxydator will still be running because it only uses 6% hydrogen peroxide solution and a catalyst stone, no electric... That's the right way,,lol:tongue1:... If you need more info on the oxydator pm me..

 

[Bob 1000]

bob if look at the klewis posted there few kind like that they dont restrist flow at all at least mind dont i paid 10 for my check valve i think if this guys have 120 gal set up he can afford a valve and there r other options but it invalve more plumbing the vavle it the easy to me that it

Dubs I can't understand your group of words,,lol.. Is that Kling on,,,lmao..

 

[morphiii]

Check valves will fail sooner or later. The simplest way is to drill a few holes half an inch below the water line on your return hose. That would break the siphon.

 

[Klewis]

Simply making sure your sump is of adequate size... When my power is turned off my sump will fill up 3in.. That is the level that I make sure never to go over when filling the sump.. As for fish loss I use a Socting Oxidator which acts like a ozone generator, also keeping O2 levels at 100% at all times provided you have the right model for the size system you run.. So if the power goes out the oxydator will still be running because it only uses 6% hydrogen peroxide solution and a catalyst stone, no electric... That's the right way,,lol:tongue1:... If you need more info on the oxydator pm me..

How would one determine an adequate size of a sump?

A tanks overflow is calculated to allow a certain amount of water to flow then stop at a predetermend water level. Due to design limitations if the return nozzles are below that predetermend level a siphon is created and the water backflows through the returns back into the sump. How can one determine what size sump to use if there is an unknown factor of how you want the flow in your display tank? I know one school of thought to overcome the design limitation is to drill an anti siphon hole in the return nozzle, the downside to that solution is algea buildup or other obstructions clogging the holes. Granted its an easy maintanence to keep the hole clean, but its also an easy concept to remember to turn off the RO/DI filter before the garbage can overflows. :tongue1: I believe a $20 check valve is an inexpensive insurance policy.

Regard to my comment about the fish loss, I'm not talking about death due to water quality or oxygen, I'm talking about that new fish you get and are so excited and cant wait to see it swimming in your tank. Once you've sustained the anticipation of acclimating it and you release it into the tank and in a flash its in the rockwork never to be seen again.:irked:

I'll look into this Sockting Oxidator you speak of. If you have any links send them over.

We're not all grammatically correct, I know I'm guilty of run on sentences at times. I understood what Dubs was saying.

Keith

 

[Bob 1000]

I understand what your saying now.. Yeah I use a anti siphon hole also.. But as far as the drains overflowing the sump that's what I explained in the last post a anti si[hon hole should also help reassure you too..
That's why I edit my post so much I always find eras in my post,,lol..

 

[dubs]

keith i guess u understand kling on lol !!!

 

[jrobbins]

Check valves will fail sooner or later. The simplest way is to drill a few holes half an inch below the water line on your return hose. That would break the siphon.

+1

drill 2 siphon breaks into your return line just below the water level and be done with it.

Whether or not a check valve restricts flow, it is a mechanical device and will eventually fail (like with anything mechanical, this is not a matter of if it will fail, but when).

 

[Imbarrie]

I vote for a larger sump capacity and better water level management also positioning the return higher up in the tank to break the siphon without drilling.

With any mechanical system I have admired, the most elegant solutions were always the simplest and least mechanical.

 

[masterswimmer]

+1

drill 2 siphon breaks into your return line just below the water level and be done with it.

Whether or not a check valve restricts flow, it is a mechanical device and will eventually fail (like with anything mechanical, this is not a matter of if it will fail, but when).

+1

If you are relying on a check valve to prevent flooding due to your sump overflowing, you are playing with fire. It will overflow someday. The check valve will fail someday.

I would NOT receommend a check valve on a saltwater setup. BTW, there is a loss of flow from a check valve. It does create back pressure, as does a ball valve, true union, 90's, 45's, 22.5's, wye's, T's, or ANY piece of pvc on your plumbing (even straight pvc). Some fittings create more back pressure than others, but they all create some.

HTH,
Russ