marklugo23
Advanced Reefer
- Location
- Brooklyn/manhattan
wow beautiful
Marineland 150DD cube build
- Thread starter Bigkahuna
- Start date
- Location
- Westchester
Update:
The cycle went really well and a little quick with some seeding of filter sponges from the old tank:
Nitrites at zero so all looked good:
A few shots with the livestock and Radions:
The cycle went really well and a little quick with some seeding of filter sponges from the old tank:
Nitrites at zero so all looked good:
A few shots with the livestock and Radions:
- Location
- Brooklyn
wow. awesome tank build, and great documentation of the process. Tagging along, for sure.
- Location
- Westchester
Thanks, next up I need to get my sump and refuge up and running, all the plumbing underneath is temporary due to the fact the sump I'm using was under my old tank til the 150DD was up and running.
- Location
- patchogue long island
very nice love the rock work
- Location
- Westchester
Update:
First some gratuitous photos
I got the sump/refuge all worked out. I had a Proflex Model 2 sump on my old 75 and loved how quiet it was. I even had built an add-on refuge that received water from my manifold, which you can see below that also was carried over into the new tank, and had a bulkhead that drained back into the Proflex. The problem with the add-on refuge was it was tallish at 18 inches which in the new stand wouldn't gove very much clearance to mount a light and it was smallish at only about 7.5 gallons.
A great local reefer was selling a really nice frag tank that was scratched up on the front real cheap which was perfect for my under tank application:
The height is only about 10" which was great for me but this presented a problem with getting the water back into the sump which at its lowest point is about 14". After asking around here on RC I got some advice to use a Uniseal which was simple and easy to use by drilling a hole in the Proflex and mounting it back to back with the rear 1" PVC drain that comes right off the back of the frag tank. I did need to raise the frag tank up about 3.5" so it's top is fractionally higher than the sump so in a power outage the frag tank wouldn't overflow. What I did was to use some left-over 3/4" sheet pvc to build a little stand:
Here you can see the sump back-to-back with the frag tank followed by a blurry photo of the uniseal on the sump interfacing with the bulkhead on the frag tank:
Some more of the sump and refuge:
Also here is the carryover manifold which will supply the main return to the Sea Swirl, BP reactor, GFO reactor and the flow to the refuge:
Here is the sump with easy access to the skimmer:
I also retrofitted the sump with uniseals on the drain line and added one for the Herbie style emergency drain:
I placed the gate valve knob out back of the stand so I can adjust it w/o removing the side panel of the stand to make it super convenient, you can see the knob sticking out a bit from a top-down shot:
I found that the AGA overflow kit actually make a nice adjustable Herbie standpipe with intake guard if you toss the durso elbow and just mount it straight up:
Finally the Sea Swirl was mounted on the back corner of the tank:
It does a nice job sweeping to cover most of the tank. I think with the MP40wES on the back and the SS it might be enough as I get a fantastic gyre flow around the rockwork with these two devices alone:
First some gratuitous photos
I got the sump/refuge all worked out. I had a Proflex Model 2 sump on my old 75 and loved how quiet it was. I even had built an add-on refuge that received water from my manifold, which you can see below that also was carried over into the new tank, and had a bulkhead that drained back into the Proflex. The problem with the add-on refuge was it was tallish at 18 inches which in the new stand wouldn't gove very much clearance to mount a light and it was smallish at only about 7.5 gallons.
A great local reefer was selling a really nice frag tank that was scratched up on the front real cheap which was perfect for my under tank application:
The height is only about 10" which was great for me but this presented a problem with getting the water back into the sump which at its lowest point is about 14". After asking around here on RC I got some advice to use a Uniseal which was simple and easy to use by drilling a hole in the Proflex and mounting it back to back with the rear 1" PVC drain that comes right off the back of the frag tank. I did need to raise the frag tank up about 3.5" so it's top is fractionally higher than the sump so in a power outage the frag tank wouldn't overflow. What I did was to use some left-over 3/4" sheet pvc to build a little stand:
Here you can see the sump back-to-back with the frag tank followed by a blurry photo of the uniseal on the sump interfacing with the bulkhead on the frag tank:
Some more of the sump and refuge:
Also here is the carryover manifold which will supply the main return to the Sea Swirl, BP reactor, GFO reactor and the flow to the refuge:
Here is the sump with easy access to the skimmer:
I also retrofitted the sump with uniseals on the drain line and added one for the Herbie style emergency drain:
I placed the gate valve knob out back of the stand so I can adjust it w/o removing the side panel of the stand to make it super convenient, you can see the knob sticking out a bit from a top-down shot:
I found that the AGA overflow kit actually make a nice adjustable Herbie standpipe with intake guard if you toss the durso elbow and just mount it straight up:
Finally the Sea Swirl was mounted on the back corner of the tank:
It does a nice job sweeping to cover most of the tank. I think with the MP40wES on the back and the SS it might be enough as I get a fantastic gyre flow around the rockwork with these two devices alone:
Last edited:
- Location
- Westchester
- Location
- Westchester
Thanks, I'm really loving the square dimensions of this new tank.
- Location
- yonkers NY
good job.Look very nice!
- Location
- Staten Island
Just came upon this thread -your tank setup came out really nice.
- Location
- Westchester
Thanks all, I managed to get my hammer's stalk mounted on a rock and put onto a fiberglass rod in a hole drilled in the PVC base and moved my larger orange cap into a more final position. I added a little dome-like rock to the back bommie to give it a little more height and put my Ric Yumma's on a flat rock in the front trying to find a lower flow area to make them happy but the flow across the sand is pretty good in most places in the tank due to the really small rock footprint I created, even with a single MP40 on the back glass. I'll try to post some photos later on.
- Location
- Westchester
Thanks, I really like your setup with the two room window view.
- Location
- Westchester
Well I thought I would make my male Squarespot Anthias happy by getting him another female to make it a proper threesome but that backfired when he chased her right out of the tank and onto the floor and apparently decided to follow her transformation into carpet jerky. I've never had a jumper before, but all my tanks prior have had canopies. I decided to go with some BRS clear netting and their DIY kit for the screens but this presented me with a problem with cuttouts on the back for the Seaswirl and I wanted some kind of overflow cover to keep the spray to a minimum. Here's what I did:
I took a thin piece of .100 sheet acrylic and dremeled out a form that went around the SS and extended over the overflow:
Then I super-glued on some black eggcrate as a backer which had the added advantage of making the whole thing stiffer and less prone to bending, which thin acrylic has a tendency to do:
I left a little lip of acrylic sticking out to help support the screen frame and to have an area that the frame can slot up against so there isn't a gap for a sneaky fish to exploit.
I'm pretty happy with the way screen turned out:
I like the clean look and am glad I made the acrylic/eggcrate backer so I could keep the screen a simple rectangle. Even though it may break up the clean look I might add a little handle to make it easier to grab.
I took a thin piece of .100 sheet acrylic and dremeled out a form that went around the SS and extended over the overflow:
Then I super-glued on some black eggcrate as a backer which had the added advantage of making the whole thing stiffer and less prone to bending, which thin acrylic has a tendency to do:
I left a little lip of acrylic sticking out to help support the screen frame and to have an area that the frame can slot up against so there isn't a gap for a sneaky fish to exploit.
I'm pretty happy with the way screen turned out:
I like the clean look and am glad I made the acrylic/eggcrate backer so I could keep the screen a simple rectangle. Even though it may break up the clean look I might add a little handle to make it easier to grab.
- Location
- Far Rockaway 11691
any update on this tank? I really like how you started. I may be looking to get 150DD also
- Location
- Westchester
Hey, all the equipment has been running brilliantly. I love the tank/stand and with the herbie overflow it's pretty quiet to boot. We lost power for a week back in Nov. and I've been fighting an epic battle against Dino's which have me pulling my hair out. The only corals not affected by them so far have been a hammer and orange montis for some reason. I love the dimensions of the tank and it looks great, it's just the damn dirty dino's that won't cooperate!
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