Jasonanatal's JBJ 28 gallon Nano Cube HQI Nano Reef Aquarium.
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Jasonanatal
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Deanos, thank you for the correction. I had a very late night last yesterday. I also meant to put 3 inches in Width not Diameter. But if you don't believe me you can come by one day and hold it outside of the water.
Jasonanatal
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Time for a Little Do-It-Yourself Modifications: Making Some Space
Due to my recent addition of the Tunze Nano DOC 9002 Protein Skimmer which has been one of the most beneficial upgrades to my JBJ 28 gallon Nano Cube HQI SPS Reef Aquarium. However, in the process of solving one problem another problem managed to show itself. How about that for Murphy's Law? Even though the Tunze Nano DOC 9002 Protein Skimmer main body was able to just barely squeeze into the Center Baffle of the Rear Chamber of the JBJ 28 gallon Nano Cube HQI SPS Reef Aquarium the collection cup was too large and occupied a substantial amount of real estate that caused me to have to disconnect the stock Integrated Hood to accomodate for the Collections Cup's space requirements.
Photograph - The Tunze Nano DOC 9002 Protein Skimmer Collection Cup occupying just a little more space then I had hoped for.
Photograph - The stock Integrated Hood of the JBJ 28 gallon Nano Cube HQI SPS Reef Aquarium disconnected from the latches and hanging about 0.5 inch over the front of the Aquarium edge allowing light to spill out. Not the prettiest site especially with someone who has Obsessive Compulsive Disorder such as myself.
Now a couple of choices were available as possible resolutions for this issue. First solution would be to remove the stock Integrated Hood and purchase a pendant, hanging or bracket mounted Metal Halide Lighting System to replace the Integrated Hood. This option was indeed to most expensive and would wast a perfectly functioning Reflector, Electronic Ballast, and Moonlights. So I opted out of choosing this option. Second solution would be to get alittle creative and break out some tools without loosing an eye or finger in the process and reminding my wife that she cannot drive without a license and that the hospital is just a cab ride away! Plus this would save me money so that I could spend it on another form of equipment for my hobby. So I choose option two.
Here was the gameplan, I was going to use my Cordless Titanium Dremel tool in order to accurrately create an opening in the rear of the Integrated Hood so that it can be connected back to the latches while allowing suffiicient space for the Tunze Nano DOC 9002 Protein Skimmer Collection Cup to sit properly. I measure approximately 4 inches in Width x 0.75 inch in Depth in order to accomplish the end product. I made sure our son was out of the room and yes I wore safety goggles even though I didn't photograph them and went to work.
Photograph - The Cordless Titanium Dremel tool that will help me save some money and maybe lose a finger.
Photograph - The Integrated Hood disconnected entirely from the JBJ 28 gallon Nano Cube HQI Reef Aquarium.
Photograph - My work in progress no I just have to smooth the edges and clean up the mess before my wife yells at me that were having company over.
Photograph - The surgery is complete and it doesn't look half as bad as I thought and here the kicker I still have all 9 I mean 10 fingers.
Photograph - Now that looks just right! My Integrated Hood back on the JBJ 28 gallon Nano Cube HQI SPS Reef Aquarium with smooth edges. Now what can I buy with $250.00?
Due to my recent addition of the Tunze Nano DOC 9002 Protein Skimmer which has been one of the most beneficial upgrades to my JBJ 28 gallon Nano Cube HQI SPS Reef Aquarium. However, in the process of solving one problem another problem managed to show itself. How about that for Murphy's Law? Even though the Tunze Nano DOC 9002 Protein Skimmer main body was able to just barely squeeze into the Center Baffle of the Rear Chamber of the JBJ 28 gallon Nano Cube HQI SPS Reef Aquarium the collection cup was too large and occupied a substantial amount of real estate that caused me to have to disconnect the stock Integrated Hood to accomodate for the Collections Cup's space requirements.
Photograph - The Tunze Nano DOC 9002 Protein Skimmer Collection Cup occupying just a little more space then I had hoped for.
Photograph - The stock Integrated Hood of the JBJ 28 gallon Nano Cube HQI SPS Reef Aquarium disconnected from the latches and hanging about 0.5 inch over the front of the Aquarium edge allowing light to spill out. Not the prettiest site especially with someone who has Obsessive Compulsive Disorder such as myself.
Now a couple of choices were available as possible resolutions for this issue. First solution would be to remove the stock Integrated Hood and purchase a pendant, hanging or bracket mounted Metal Halide Lighting System to replace the Integrated Hood. This option was indeed to most expensive and would wast a perfectly functioning Reflector, Electronic Ballast, and Moonlights. So I opted out of choosing this option. Second solution would be to get alittle creative and break out some tools without loosing an eye or finger in the process and reminding my wife that she cannot drive without a license and that the hospital is just a cab ride away! Plus this would save me money so that I could spend it on another form of equipment for my hobby. So I choose option two.
Here was the gameplan, I was going to use my Cordless Titanium Dremel tool in order to accurrately create an opening in the rear of the Integrated Hood so that it can be connected back to the latches while allowing suffiicient space for the Tunze Nano DOC 9002 Protein Skimmer Collection Cup to sit properly. I measure approximately 4 inches in Width x 0.75 inch in Depth in order to accomplish the end product. I made sure our son was out of the room and yes I wore safety goggles even though I didn't photograph them and went to work.
Photograph - The Cordless Titanium Dremel tool that will help me save some money and maybe lose a finger.
Photograph - The Integrated Hood disconnected entirely from the JBJ 28 gallon Nano Cube HQI Reef Aquarium.
Photograph - My work in progress no I just have to smooth the edges and clean up the mess before my wife yells at me that were having company over.
Photograph - The surgery is complete and it doesn't look half as bad as I thought and here the kicker I still have all 9 I mean 10 fingers.
Photograph - Now that looks just right! My Integrated Hood back on the JBJ 28 gallon Nano Cube HQI SPS Reef Aquarium with smooth edges. Now what can I buy with $250.00?
Jasonanatal
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Electricity, Saltwater & Living Creatures Not a Good Combination.
My wife is such a wonderful woman who wants to make our very first Christmas together as special as it can be so she decided to give me a stocking stuffer from Santa Clause a bit early. I'm glad she pays attention when I bore her to death about the Marine Aquarium Hobby. It shows how much she loves me! Okay back on track, she remember that I had mentioned something about a Titanium Grounding Probe and decided to pick one up for me.
Photograph - My stocking stuffer, the Rid Volt Titanium Grounding Probe.
This is definitely an area that I can see makes enough of a point through common sense. Unfortunately I don't own any devices that can measure the electricl current in water if any at all before I setup the probe in comparison to after using the probe. In theory it makes perfect sense and what does it cost me? Not a penny so I just connected it to a grounded outlet as instructed and submersed the probe into the Aquarium Saltwater within the Far Left Baffle of the Rear Chamber on my JBJ 28 gallon Nano Cube HQI SPS Reef Aquarium.
My wife is such a wonderful woman who wants to make our very first Christmas together as special as it can be so she decided to give me a stocking stuffer from Santa Clause a bit early. I'm glad she pays attention when I bore her to death about the Marine Aquarium Hobby. It shows how much she loves me! Okay back on track, she remember that I had mentioned something about a Titanium Grounding Probe and decided to pick one up for me.
Photograph - My stocking stuffer, the Rid Volt Titanium Grounding Probe.
This is definitely an area that I can see makes enough of a point through common sense. Unfortunately I don't own any devices that can measure the electricl current in water if any at all before I setup the probe in comparison to after using the probe. In theory it makes perfect sense and what does it cost me? Not a penny so I just connected it to a grounded outlet as instructed and submersed the probe into the Aquarium Saltwater within the Far Left Baffle of the Rear Chamber on my JBJ 28 gallon Nano Cube HQI SPS Reef Aquarium.
Jasonanatal
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Something's Fishy with My Deresa Clam
Well I have all my thing packed for work and I'm just about to walk out the door and through the corner of my eye I see something unspeakable. My most priced possession and only Deresa Clam has an area of Pinched Mantel. Of all the things in the world why my Deresa Clam! Well out to work I go and hopefully in the morning I will see my Deresa Clam good as new. I'm come home the next morning and normally my Deresa Clam still has bout 0.25 Inch of the mantel extended during the Moonlight Photo-Period and brief time during the morning where both the Metal Halide Photo-Period and Moonlight Photo-Period are not in progress. But yet the same area that was experiencing the Pinched Mantel issue. With the Metal Halide Photo-Period about to kick in a few hours I decide to get some rest and come back to investigate.
Photograph - My Deresa Clam displaying signs of Pinch Mantel.
Now the Metal Halide Lighting is on and the Deresa Clam should have the entire Mantel Extended but unfortunately it is still displaying sign of Pinch Mantel. So I do a little looking around and what do I see causing the problem... an Aptasia Anemone! Now in the past this particular coral had an Aptasia Anemone growing on the side of it shell which was removed by using a Tweezers. This particular Aptasia Anemone was growing within the crevis of the already formed shell and the new layer that was growing. Precisely located underneath the normal Mantel extension area. The same method of using a tweezer to remove the Aptasia was performed and within an hour the Deresa Clam was fully extending its Mantel as normal. Thank goodness!
Photograph - My Deresa Clam feeling all better an hour after the removal of the Aptasia Anemone.
Well I have all my thing packed for work and I'm just about to walk out the door and through the corner of my eye I see something unspeakable. My most priced possession and only Deresa Clam has an area of Pinched Mantel. Of all the things in the world why my Deresa Clam! Well out to work I go and hopefully in the morning I will see my Deresa Clam good as new. I'm come home the next morning and normally my Deresa Clam still has bout 0.25 Inch of the mantel extended during the Moonlight Photo-Period and brief time during the morning where both the Metal Halide Photo-Period and Moonlight Photo-Period are not in progress. But yet the same area that was experiencing the Pinched Mantel issue. With the Metal Halide Photo-Period about to kick in a few hours I decide to get some rest and come back to investigate.
Photograph - My Deresa Clam displaying signs of Pinch Mantel.
Now the Metal Halide Lighting is on and the Deresa Clam should have the entire Mantel Extended but unfortunately it is still displaying sign of Pinch Mantel. So I do a little looking around and what do I see causing the problem... an Aptasia Anemone! Now in the past this particular coral had an Aptasia Anemone growing on the side of it shell which was removed by using a Tweezers. This particular Aptasia Anemone was growing within the crevis of the already formed shell and the new layer that was growing. Precisely located underneath the normal Mantel extension area. The same method of using a tweezer to remove the Aptasia was performed and within an hour the Deresa Clam was fully extending its Mantel as normal. Thank goodness!
Photograph - My Deresa Clam feeling all better an hour after the removal of the Aptasia Anemone.
Jasonanatal
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- Off the farm...
Jlaudio, thank you very much for the compliments. They are as always very much appreciated.
Jasonanatal
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- Off the farm...
Jejton, the power strips that I am currently using can handle a particular amount of wattage before a power surge or too much wattage causes them to either burn out or trip into safety mode which kills the power. I have my most important equipment Pumps, Heaters, Protein Skimmer, etc. connected to the first Power Strip Then Pumps for my Ultratviolet Sterilizer and Carbon Fluidized Bed Filter, Etc on the second and Last my Metal Halide Lighting System on the third. So if one of my power strips fail (unless the main strip is the failing unit) then it wont interfere with my main life systaining equipment. I hope that clears it up.
Jasonanatal
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- Off the farm...
A More Detailed Look at Weekly Water Changes.
Hello everyone, I just thought I would go into a bit more detail on the processes that are included in the weekly water changes for my JBJ 28 gallon Nano Cube HQI SPS Reef Aquarium. As I have stated in previous post, the world of Nano Reef Aquariums is not forgiving in making honest mistakes or miscalculations which in the most minuscule amount can have devestating effects on the specimens your care for. This in turn means that I must pay careful attention to parameters of the newly mixed Saltwater as oppossed to the Saltwater already within the Nano Reef Aquarium.
Reverse Osmosis/Deionization or RO/DI Filtration
Well everything has to start somewhere and our first task is to ensure that nothing but the purist water possible can be used to in addition to a quality salt mixture. In order to do this I incorporate a Reverse Osmosis?Deionization or RO/DI Filtration System to purify the tap water coming from my bathroom faucet. Now some people might not now exactly what an RO/DI Filtration System is and how it works so here is a detailed explination. Water coming from you faucet has been chemically treated in order to bring it to any acceptable level for human consumption. Chemicals contained within the water can be anything from Flouride or Phosphates and here a kicker Arsenic. Well to be short about it their are many chemicals that vary from location to location that we do not want in our Aquariums. An RO/DI unit such as mine passes tap water at high pressures through Prefilters developed to chemically remove impurities (Carbon Prefilter) larger Solids (Sediment Prefilters and eventually extremely small solids (Reverse Osmosis Membrane) and finally removing the last amount of impurities both described as a chemical and mechanical filtration method (Deionization Canister) and into your bucket. Resulting in Freshwater that is reffered to as pure or scientifically have the least amount of Total Dissolved Solvents or TDS. Waste water is a byproduct of the filtration at a ratio of 1 gallon of purified water to an average of 4 gallons to 5 gallons of waste water which is expelled from the system at the Reverse Osmosis Membrane.
Notation: All Reverse Osmosis/Deionization Filtration Systems have a Reverse Osmosis Membrane labeled with a Gallons Per Day rating on them. This does not mean that you can leave your unit on for 24 hours and produce for example 75 gallons of Purified Freshwater on a system rate for 75 gallons per day. This means that your unit can process 75 gallons of water in that day which include both purified water in combination with waste water.
Photograph - A standard Reverse Osmosis /Deonization Filtration System with Carbon and Sediment Prefilters rated at 75 gallons per day.
In order to confirm that level of Total Dissolved Solvents of the purified water a hand held TDS Meter or Inline TDS Meter is required. This device works by measuring the electrical conductivity of the purified water by passing electrical current from one prong and receiving/measuring it at the other prong. The closer the reading is to 000 the more pure that water. This device can also ensure that your Reverse Osmosis/Deionization Filtration System is functioning properly.
Photograph - Hannah TDS Meter measuring the purity of the water.
Notation: Please ensure that your TDS Meter prongs are submerged in the water you are measuring the purity of. The photograph above was take for viewing purposes only. Also it is impossible to get the TDS Reading of saltwater so don't be alarmed if you place the TDS Meter in saltwater and the reading goes off the chart.
Mixing Synthetic Sea Salt for the Nano Reef Aquarium
Now this section is not meant to start a debate on what manufacturer of Synthetic Sea Salt will provide the optimal results for a Nano Reef Aquarium. Since I started in the Reef Keeping Hobby I was an avid Instant Ocean preffered hobbyist. But recently I have switched to Kent Marine Synthetic Sea Salt and I am quite pleased with the results so far. I measure my Kent Marine Synthetic Sea Salt at approximately 2.5 cups for 5 gallons of Freshwater which results in a Salinity Grade of 1.026 Salinity Grade or 35 Parts Per Thousand. I personally found standing at the bucket with a stick manually mixing the salt to be quite time cosuming. So I moved to a more aumated method incoporating a Mag-7 Water Pump to do the mixing for me. I also use a 200 watt Marineland Visi-therm Stealth Heater to match my Nano Reef Aquarium Water of 76 Degrees Fahrenheit and a Coralife Digital Thermometer to see when the temperature is an exact match.
Photograph - Kent Marine Synthetic Sea Salt Mix. The bag include a sealing mechanism like a Ziplock which is worth the high price itself. the seal it creates is airtight which ensure that your Synthetic Sea Salt Mix will not get clumpy from absorbing excessive moisture.
Photograph - My Pyrex measuring cup with Metric measurement for easy European measurements. Definitely comes in handy with European chemical dosing instructions.
Photograph - Beginning of mixing process.
Photograph - 10 minuts into the mixing process.
Photograph - 25 minutes into the mixing process and the Saltwater is ready for the water change.
Notation: The time allowed for the Synthetic Sea Salt to completely mix with the RO/DI Freshwater is a personal preference and will vary based on what manufactuer's Synthetic Sea Salt you use as well as the Gallons Per Hour ratiing of the Water Pump used to mix it together. It normally take me about 30 minutes for water temperature and salinity grade to reflect the water parameters of the Saltwater contained withint he Nano Reef Aquarium.
Removing and Replacing Nano Reef Aquarium Water
Now this method is personal preference but to keep it short and sweet I incporaate a Python Syphon to remove Saltwater from the Nano Reef Aquarium and use to also add the newly mixed water so that I don't injure my back.
Photograph - The Python Syphon one of the most useful items ever developed for the Aquarium.
Hello everyone, I just thought I would go into a bit more detail on the processes that are included in the weekly water changes for my JBJ 28 gallon Nano Cube HQI SPS Reef Aquarium. As I have stated in previous post, the world of Nano Reef Aquariums is not forgiving in making honest mistakes or miscalculations which in the most minuscule amount can have devestating effects on the specimens your care for. This in turn means that I must pay careful attention to parameters of the newly mixed Saltwater as oppossed to the Saltwater already within the Nano Reef Aquarium.
Reverse Osmosis/Deionization or RO/DI Filtration
Well everything has to start somewhere and our first task is to ensure that nothing but the purist water possible can be used to in addition to a quality salt mixture. In order to do this I incorporate a Reverse Osmosis?Deionization or RO/DI Filtration System to purify the tap water coming from my bathroom faucet. Now some people might not now exactly what an RO/DI Filtration System is and how it works so here is a detailed explination. Water coming from you faucet has been chemically treated in order to bring it to any acceptable level for human consumption. Chemicals contained within the water can be anything from Flouride or Phosphates and here a kicker Arsenic. Well to be short about it their are many chemicals that vary from location to location that we do not want in our Aquariums. An RO/DI unit such as mine passes tap water at high pressures through Prefilters developed to chemically remove impurities (Carbon Prefilter) larger Solids (Sediment Prefilters and eventually extremely small solids (Reverse Osmosis Membrane) and finally removing the last amount of impurities both described as a chemical and mechanical filtration method (Deionization Canister) and into your bucket. Resulting in Freshwater that is reffered to as pure or scientifically have the least amount of Total Dissolved Solvents or TDS. Waste water is a byproduct of the filtration at a ratio of 1 gallon of purified water to an average of 4 gallons to 5 gallons of waste water which is expelled from the system at the Reverse Osmosis Membrane.
Notation: All Reverse Osmosis/Deionization Filtration Systems have a Reverse Osmosis Membrane labeled with a Gallons Per Day rating on them. This does not mean that you can leave your unit on for 24 hours and produce for example 75 gallons of Purified Freshwater on a system rate for 75 gallons per day. This means that your unit can process 75 gallons of water in that day which include both purified water in combination with waste water.
Photograph - A standard Reverse Osmosis /Deonization Filtration System with Carbon and Sediment Prefilters rated at 75 gallons per day.
In order to confirm that level of Total Dissolved Solvents of the purified water a hand held TDS Meter or Inline TDS Meter is required. This device works by measuring the electrical conductivity of the purified water by passing electrical current from one prong and receiving/measuring it at the other prong. The closer the reading is to 000 the more pure that water. This device can also ensure that your Reverse Osmosis/Deionization Filtration System is functioning properly.
Photograph - Hannah TDS Meter measuring the purity of the water.
Notation: Please ensure that your TDS Meter prongs are submerged in the water you are measuring the purity of. The photograph above was take for viewing purposes only. Also it is impossible to get the TDS Reading of saltwater so don't be alarmed if you place the TDS Meter in saltwater and the reading goes off the chart.
Mixing Synthetic Sea Salt for the Nano Reef Aquarium
Now this section is not meant to start a debate on what manufacturer of Synthetic Sea Salt will provide the optimal results for a Nano Reef Aquarium. Since I started in the Reef Keeping Hobby I was an avid Instant Ocean preffered hobbyist. But recently I have switched to Kent Marine Synthetic Sea Salt and I am quite pleased with the results so far. I measure my Kent Marine Synthetic Sea Salt at approximately 2.5 cups for 5 gallons of Freshwater which results in a Salinity Grade of 1.026 Salinity Grade or 35 Parts Per Thousand. I personally found standing at the bucket with a stick manually mixing the salt to be quite time cosuming. So I moved to a more aumated method incoporating a Mag-7 Water Pump to do the mixing for me. I also use a 200 watt Marineland Visi-therm Stealth Heater to match my Nano Reef Aquarium Water of 76 Degrees Fahrenheit and a Coralife Digital Thermometer to see when the temperature is an exact match.
Photograph - Kent Marine Synthetic Sea Salt Mix. The bag include a sealing mechanism like a Ziplock which is worth the high price itself. the seal it creates is airtight which ensure that your Synthetic Sea Salt Mix will not get clumpy from absorbing excessive moisture.
Photograph - My Pyrex measuring cup with Metric measurement for easy European measurements. Definitely comes in handy with European chemical dosing instructions.
Photograph - Beginning of mixing process.
Photograph - 10 minuts into the mixing process.
Photograph - 25 minutes into the mixing process and the Saltwater is ready for the water change.
Notation: The time allowed for the Synthetic Sea Salt to completely mix with the RO/DI Freshwater is a personal preference and will vary based on what manufactuer's Synthetic Sea Salt you use as well as the Gallons Per Hour ratiing of the Water Pump used to mix it together. It normally take me about 30 minutes for water temperature and salinity grade to reflect the water parameters of the Saltwater contained withint he Nano Reef Aquarium.
Removing and Replacing Nano Reef Aquarium Water
Now this method is personal preference but to keep it short and sweet I incporaate a Python Syphon to remove Saltwater from the Nano Reef Aquarium and use to also add the newly mixed water so that I don't injure my back.
Photograph - The Python Syphon one of the most useful items ever developed for the Aquarium.
Last edited:
Jasonanatal
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- Location
- Off the farm...
New SPS Coral Frag Addition
On Saturday, December 15, 2007 I purchased a Coral Frag of Orange with White Polyp Montipora Capricornis from NaCl-H20 of the Manhattan Reefs Forum. It was dripped acclimated over a period of 2 hours and allowed 1 week before being photographed. It is honestly one of the most beautiful specimens I have seen.
Photograph - Orange with White Polyp Montipora Capricornis from NaCl-H20 of the Manhattan Reefs Forum.
Coral Family: Acroporidae
Coral Genus: Monitpora
Common Name: Montipora Capricornis
Common Morphologies: Plating
Origin: Pacific Ocean
Acquired: Saturday, December 15, 2007
Lighting Requirements: Moderate to high. Metal Halide Lighting is suggested, but these Corals are tolerant of a wide range of lighting conditions and have been known to grow successfully under Very High Output Lighting or on occassion Power Compact Flourescent Lighting.
Flow Requirements: Moderate to high flow.
Availability: High.
Growth: Fast.
Difficulty: Moderate.
On Saturday, December 15, 2007 I purchased a Coral Frag of Orange with White Polyp Montipora Capricornis from NaCl-H20 of the Manhattan Reefs Forum. It was dripped acclimated over a period of 2 hours and allowed 1 week before being photographed. It is honestly one of the most beautiful specimens I have seen.
Photograph - Orange with White Polyp Montipora Capricornis from NaCl-H20 of the Manhattan Reefs Forum.
Coral Family: Acroporidae
Coral Genus: Monitpora
Common Name: Montipora Capricornis
Common Morphologies: Plating
Origin: Pacific Ocean
Acquired: Saturday, December 15, 2007
Lighting Requirements: Moderate to high. Metal Halide Lighting is suggested, but these Corals are tolerant of a wide range of lighting conditions and have been known to grow successfully under Very High Output Lighting or on occassion Power Compact Flourescent Lighting.
Flow Requirements: Moderate to high flow.
Availability: High.
Growth: Fast.
Difficulty: Moderate.
Jasonanatal
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- Off the farm...
Etompkins, thank you very much for the compliment. It is very much appreciated. I'm glad that I can share information with both new hobbyist and experience hobbyist alike.
Jasonanatal
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- Location
- Off the farm...
A Sad Day In My World of Reefkeeping.
I'm extremely dedicated in the maintenance required to have a thriving Nano Reef Aquarium and it is definitely heartbreaking to come across an issue directly related to a common task in the Reek Keeping hobby. I normally don't have to clean my glass of Algae but I do so just to remove even the finest film that may adhere to the Internal Pane. I use a Mag-Float Small which is rated for use on Glass Aquariums up to 30 gallons with a maximum pane thickness of 3/16 Inch. Now at the time of my cleaning my Photoperiod had ended and the damage that was created was not noticable until the next morning. When the lights came on I could see multiple abrasive marking on the Internal Pane of the Aquarium Glass.
Photograph - Abrasive markings left behind after the use of my Mag-Float Algae Cleaner.
After a minor breakdown of sorts I reviewed some forum searches and found that scratching Nano Aquarium Glass is more common then you would think and not isolated only the JBJ 28 gallon Nano Cube HQI Aquariums. But nothing was described to be near the level of damage that I experienced. In turn I contacted Transworld Aquatic Enterprises Inc. and advised them of the situation. I explained that the possibility for a grain or multiple grains of substrate being caught between the Internal Mag-Float and the glass could not have caused the abrasive marking since the pattern clearly depicts the bottom of the Mag-Float and that I never keep my Mag-Floats within my Aquarium. The Mag-Float is also removed after use and before use I make sure that no foreign objects exist that could possibly cause something like this. After a supervisor reviewed the photographs Transworld Aquatic Enterprises Inc. advised that they are sending me a replacement Aquarium. Which is both a blessing and a curse. It is scheduled to arrive on January 07, 2008 and I will set it up shortly after.
I'm extremely dedicated in the maintenance required to have a thriving Nano Reef Aquarium and it is definitely heartbreaking to come across an issue directly related to a common task in the Reek Keeping hobby. I normally don't have to clean my glass of Algae but I do so just to remove even the finest film that may adhere to the Internal Pane. I use a Mag-Float Small which is rated for use on Glass Aquariums up to 30 gallons with a maximum pane thickness of 3/16 Inch. Now at the time of my cleaning my Photoperiod had ended and the damage that was created was not noticable until the next morning. When the lights came on I could see multiple abrasive marking on the Internal Pane of the Aquarium Glass.
Photograph - Abrasive markings left behind after the use of my Mag-Float Algae Cleaner.
After a minor breakdown of sorts I reviewed some forum searches and found that scratching Nano Aquarium Glass is more common then you would think and not isolated only the JBJ 28 gallon Nano Cube HQI Aquariums. But nothing was described to be near the level of damage that I experienced. In turn I contacted Transworld Aquatic Enterprises Inc. and advised them of the situation. I explained that the possibility for a grain or multiple grains of substrate being caught between the Internal Mag-Float and the glass could not have caused the abrasive marking since the pattern clearly depicts the bottom of the Mag-Float and that I never keep my Mag-Floats within my Aquarium. The Mag-Float is also removed after use and before use I make sure that no foreign objects exist that could possibly cause something like this. After a supervisor reviewed the photographs Transworld Aquatic Enterprises Inc. advised that they are sending me a replacement Aquarium. Which is both a blessing and a curse. It is scheduled to arrive on January 07, 2008 and I will set it up shortly after.
Last edited:
- Location
- poughquag, ny
i use nylon mesh bag on my magnet. cut up the bag that comes with my pura complete and cut it into piece that are size of the magnet. keeps sand grains and ect out and does a better job cleaning glass.
Bummer!
I'm soooooooo sorry to hear about the scratches on your tank. It's a real real bummer:-(
But thank goodness a replacement is being provided to you
p.s.- thanks for the link, your thread is amazing and has such useful information!
I really appreciate it.
I'm soooooooo sorry to hear about the scratches on your tank. It's a real real bummer:-(
But thank goodness a replacement is being provided to you
p.s.- thanks for the link, your thread is amazing and has such useful information!
I really appreciate it.
How is the UV working out for you. Do you run it 24/7. A UV this size on a 24gal tank running 24/7 on a reef tank would be a little concerning to me. Think it will be killing to much good bacteria... UV light work also depending on the amount of GPH running through it and to make it's a little less efficient you could raise the amount of gph slightly higher then required but in a tank this small it would be almost impossible. but if it's working for you thats what counts.
Awesome thread by the way...
Awesome thread by the way...
Jasonanatal
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- Off the farm...
Ikarus, I'm am very glad as well.
Jasonanatal
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- Off the farm...
NYreefnoob, that is some good information. Howevery, I have never been a real Do-it-yourself kind of person. I'm going to look into some higher end Algea Magnest such as the Mangnavore and Algea Free which are Acrylic safe just to be sure.
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