Cozer's Basement Tank
- Thread starter cozer
- Start date
- Location
- Queens
wow! i want the light fixture! googlein' it right now!!!
- Location
- Briarcliff, Westchester
This tank is amazing! Awesome job. I would love some frags of all your zoas :tongue1:
henrystyle
Bad Mutha Shut Your mouth
- Location
- East Stroudsburg, PA
How are you getting these crispy pics under those leds? All my pics come out crazy looking.
- Location
- Long Island
your tank is amazing....
i am going to have add red leds. i see that your purples really stand out where my 3w royal blues wash the purples out.
the amount of growth and color in your tank is one of the few reasons i went with leds.
the others are electric and heat... j/k.
i am going to have add red leds. i see that your purples really stand out where my 3w royal blues wash the purples out.
the amount of growth and color in your tank is one of the few reasons i went with leds.
the others are electric and heat... j/k.
- Location
- Elizabeth, NJ
Beautiful pics, wild coral collection as well.
Good job buddy.
Good job buddy.
Here are top-view photos of some corals under Illumagic M-90S:
Some LPS
Monti - Forest fire
Monti - Superman
Acros
These corals were kept under an old version M-90C (without Royal blue and Neutral white LEDs) for at least one year. I switched the M-90C to ALC version M-90S about three months ago and found some improvement. My opinion is that the increase number of white LEDs, especially the addition of neutral white ones which are more yellowish than the cool white ones, are beneficial to either the color and the growth of the corals. This maybe the influence of the intenser red light spectrum. Moreover, the addition of Royal blue LEDs also brings out the purplish hues to the whole tank and makes it more natural in comparison with the old "All blue" version fixture. It is believed that Royal blue LEDs is essential to the corals even when there are already blue LEDs. As a result,I personally prefer this M-90S.
Some LPS
Monti - Forest fire
Monti - Superman
Acros
These corals were kept under an old version M-90C (without Royal blue and Neutral white LEDs) for at least one year. I switched the M-90C to ALC version M-90S about three months ago and found some improvement. My opinion is that the increase number of white LEDs, especially the addition of neutral white ones which are more yellowish than the cool white ones, are beneficial to either the color and the growth of the corals. This maybe the influence of the intenser red light spectrum. Moreover, the addition of Royal blue LEDs also brings out the purplish hues to the whole tank and makes it more natural in comparison with the old "All blue" version fixture. It is believed that Royal blue LEDs is essential to the corals even when there are already blue LEDs. As a result,I personally prefer this M-90S.
- Location
- Brooklyn, NY
Super nice, and yes, I must agree the additional whites make a huge difference appearance wise.
NOTE TO LED MANUFACTURERS: PLEASE SNAP THE HOBBY OUT OF THE BLUES--CORALS LOOK MUCH BETTER UNDER BROADER SPECTRUM LIGHT. Sorry, I couldn't help myself
NOTE TO LED MANUFACTURERS: PLEASE SNAP THE HOBBY OUT OF THE BLUES--CORALS LOOK MUCH BETTER UNDER BROADER SPECTRUM LIGHT. Sorry, I couldn't help myself
This my frag tank connected with my basement display tank which was set up a month ago. The dimension is 60cm x 40cm x 35cm. This frag tank shares the same sump with the main display. I use a M-60S on this shallow frag tank and it is really bright for the frags and I personally belived the S model will be beneficial to the growth of the frags.
Let's see some coral frags in this tank:
Red zoas with red skirt and white mouth.
Light yellow zoas with pink skirt.
Orange zoas with red skirt and white mouth.
Blue hornet (looks purplish under S model light)
Acans
Taiwaness Duncans (not as big as the Aussie Duncans, but still gorgeous)
Favia with green eyes and purple rings
Let's see some coral frags in this tank:
Red zoas with red skirt and white mouth.
Light yellow zoas with pink skirt.
Orange zoas with red skirt and white mouth.
Blue hornet (looks purplish under S model light)
Acans
Taiwaness Duncans (not as big as the Aussie Duncans, but still gorgeous)
Favia with green eyes and purple rings
- Location
- Brooklyn(bayridge)
Your shots are sick
Matty'sCornerAquariums
Matty'sCornerAquariums
Many people asked me how I could get these nice looking photos. What settings of the camera should be? Below is my personal experience on photography:
To get better quality photos, remember to:
(1) Shut down the pumps (wave or return pumps) before taking the photos. The water flow always causes negative effects on focusing, especially for those corals that wave with the water flow.
(2) Try to set the ISO to lower value. I personally prefer to set at 200 when I used my 60mm micro lens.
(3) F value: the extent of light entrance (the higher the value is the less the light can enter the camera)
If you want a photo to be with shallow depth of field (only the focused region is clear and the surrounding is blurred), set the F to lower value, such as 2.8. This will allowe more light to enter. In this case, one can decrease the shutter value to avoid negative effects due to the vibration.
When a small F value is set, shutter value should be adjusted by refering the light condition. The intenser the lighting source is, the lower value (1/100 sec) of the shutter should be set to avoid over-exposure.
If you want to have a deeper depth of filed, please set the F to higher value, such as 8 or even 10. The higher the F value, the less the light can enter and be captured. In this case, one should set the shutter to higher value (to increase the exposure time), such as 1/5 or even 1 sec to compensate the light loss due to the high F value.
(4) Shutter value: Light exposure time (the higher the value is, the more light is exposured)
When the shutter has to be set at high value (longer exposure time), there is a great possibility that artificial vibration can cause negative effects to the photos obtained. The photos might become blurred due to the vibration. In this case, a supporting leg will be necessary to fix the camera. An even better way to eliminate the vibration is to get a remote line to press the button.
Please remember, using P-mode of most digital camera may get you some "good" photos but definitely not "great" photos.
If you want to take some FTS of the whole tank, higher ISO value is recommended. Just try to fix one setting (F or shutter) while adjusting the other (shutter or F). You will find the difference between them.
I am willing to offer my personal experience on photography. Please feel free to point out the mistakes for correction if there is anything wrong with my understanding.
To get better quality photos, remember to:
(1) Shut down the pumps (wave or return pumps) before taking the photos. The water flow always causes negative effects on focusing, especially for those corals that wave with the water flow.
(2) Try to set the ISO to lower value. I personally prefer to set at 200 when I used my 60mm micro lens.
(3) F value: the extent of light entrance (the higher the value is the less the light can enter the camera)
If you want a photo to be with shallow depth of field (only the focused region is clear and the surrounding is blurred), set the F to lower value, such as 2.8. This will allowe more light to enter. In this case, one can decrease the shutter value to avoid negative effects due to the vibration.
When a small F value is set, shutter value should be adjusted by refering the light condition. The intenser the lighting source is, the lower value (1/100 sec) of the shutter should be set to avoid over-exposure.
If you want to have a deeper depth of filed, please set the F to higher value, such as 8 or even 10. The higher the F value, the less the light can enter and be captured. In this case, one should set the shutter to higher value (to increase the exposure time), such as 1/5 or even 1 sec to compensate the light loss due to the high F value.
(4) Shutter value: Light exposure time (the higher the value is, the more light is exposured)
When the shutter has to be set at high value (longer exposure time), there is a great possibility that artificial vibration can cause negative effects to the photos obtained. The photos might become blurred due to the vibration. In this case, a supporting leg will be necessary to fix the camera. An even better way to eliminate the vibration is to get a remote line to press the button.
Please remember, using P-mode of most digital camera may get you some "good" photos but definitely not "great" photos.
If you want to take some FTS of the whole tank, higher ISO value is recommended. Just try to fix one setting (F or shutter) while adjusting the other (shutter or F). You will find the difference between them.
I am willing to offer my personal experience on photography. Please feel free to point out the mistakes for correction if there is anything wrong with my understanding.
Last edited:
PolandSpring
Advanced Reefer
- Location
- Long Island/Manhattan
amazing tank
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