After missing my tank for so long,

[bad coffee]

Okay, here's what I like so far:

tank is 32x20x20 (about 55 gallons)

Stand is 34 tall,
Canopy is 12 (I think it will work.)

Since I'm going with 32" width, I'll probably go with 2 150wDE's and actinics of some sort. (prob vho)

Soon as my cad book gets here I'll learn how to make the boxes hollow and add the sump.

B

 

[masterswimmer]

DIBS :thrash:
I am sooooooo stoked! :lol_large

Russ

 

[bad coffee]

so I couldn't wait to get a book, so I ghetto'd it up today.

www.bad-coffee.com/pics/movie.mov

B

 

[Chiefmcfuz]

Cool

 

[bad coffee]

So I started working on my sump today, and realized I needed a bit of extra space. SO I changed the uprights on the stand from 2x4's to a 2x3 and a 2x2. I'm pretty sure that they'll hold the weight (the frame will be covered with 1/2" ply) But what do you guys think?

I'm a sound guy, not a structural engineer.

Total heigth=34,
the tank sits on a frame of 2x6
the bottom frame is 2x4
Uprights are 2x3 with a 2x2 glued and screwed together.

Anyone think it won't hold?

B

 

[masterswimmer]

A 2 x 2 alone standing on end would hold. A 2 x 3 and a 2 x 2 shealthed with plywood would hold a whole lot more than you're going to put on there. No worries my friend. Use galvanized or SS screws, not nails and you'll be fine.

master

 

[Tonyscoots84]

russ wouldnt he also be safer puttin the horizontal supports as well.. Like you told me to do.

 

[masterswimmer]

russ wouldnt he also be safer puttin the horizontal supports as well.. Like you told me to do.

Tonyyyyyyyy, I suggested REMOVING the horizontal bracing. I recommeded putting in diagonal bracing. :fishhit:
However, as long as he's going to sheath the entire cabinet with plywood, cross bracing isn't necessary.

We thank you for your support.

master

 

[bad coffee]

We thank you for your support.

master

ugh. that's bad. I love it.

So I could theoretically get rid of the 2x2 and just go with the 2x3 or 2x4. I'd just turn it so the long side would be front to back. That way it would also span the joint on the top and bottom frame.

What do you think?

B

 

[masterswimmer]

Sounds like you've got a good handle on it. Draw me a pic and I'll let you know.

Russ

 

[jhale]

ugh. that's bad. I love it.

So I could theoretically get rid of the 2x2 and just go with the 2x3 or 2x4. I'd just turn it so the long side would be front to back. That way it would also span the joint on the top and bottom frame.

What do you think?

B

if your screwing and gluing the plywood together you do not need the dimensional lumber for support. you can park a car on the cabinets I make,
they will easily support a tank, then you have the max room underneath.
the shear strength of plywood is incredibly strong.

 

[masterswimmer]

if your screwing and gluing the plywood together you do not need the dimensional lumber for support. you can park a car on the cabinets I make,
they will easily support a tank, then you have the max room underneath.
the shear strength of plywood is incredibly strong.

Agreed. Not to mention the strength of the dimensional lumber on the vertical. It ain't going nowhere my friend.


Russ

 

[bad coffee]

Yeah. If I were going to just build it with ply I'd get 3/4" 13 ply birch. But I'm trying to keep the weight and the cost down so I'll use 2x's and 1/2" (probably cherry or maple veneer)

Speaking of cabinets, Jonathan, do you know of any websites that have color pics of nice cabinets? I still haven't decided on trim for this tank. I want to design something different than my last tank.

B

 

[bad coffee]

Does anyone happen to know the size of the front disc on a 3/4" bulkhead? Also if you know the size for a 1" that would be cool too Thanks

B

 

[masterswimmer]

BC, they vary based on sch. 40 or sch. 80 and also by manufacturer. Sorry to be of no help there.

If you go to:

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/bulkhead.html

It gives a schematic of all the dimensions of THEIR bulkheads.

Russ

 

[bad coffee]

Okay, so I updated the tank

I changed the size of the holes for the bulkeads

I added two front corner braces with holes for bulkheads.
If I go with the OM super Squirt, I'll only use two of the holes ont he back and the two in the front. I'll plug the other two for future use, or I'll get rid of them (glasscages charges $20 a hole. And why pay for them to drill extra holes 'just incase'?)

Does anyone have any pics of eurobracing? I'm trying to get away with it instead of a frame (read: the tank is not a standard size so I gotta go euro.)

It's useless without pics, so here!

 

[masterswimmer]

I'll try to take a pic of the top of my acrylic tank (euro braced) tomorrow. Lights out now. Don't want to give anyone a heart attack. Those midnight flashes ain't cool.

That tank looks awesome btw. I would also pay glass cages to drill all the just in case holes you can think of. Easier to plug them now than have to drill them later. What can it cost you? Another $60 or $80? No biggie in this hobby.

master

 

[bad coffee]

Okay, so I'm thinking about flow. (not Flo)

I'm thinking I have 6 holes in the tank. That could be one oceansmotions supersquirt (4 holes) and a closed loop.

My thoughts: (tank is around 50 gallons and I'm aiming for 1200gph or so.)

I could put the OM on the return pump, and have that much flow through my sump, which would leave one in and one out for a CL.

I could put the OM on the CL, and have one hole for the return from the sump.

Now, I need two pumps. One for the return (~1000gph) and one for the closed loop. (~?gph)

If I use something like a mag 7 for the return, I would be getting around 500 gph from a straight one-hole return. Then I would need something around 800 gph on the CL to be happy.

Suggestions? What pumps for both the closed loop and the main return. My sump should be around 15 gallons or so. And I might have a skimmer, Possibly with a submerged pump. (which adds another pump)

This early in the design I can still go external with the pump. Suggestions?

 

[House of Laughter]

If you're feeling it, the TUNZE submersible pumps can kick some butt! And kick some wallet.

But I like the eheim too - I think deanos is using on for his return.

If you use the 4 way, get them to configure it so 2 go on at the same time and put 2 on one side of the tank and 2 on the other - it will give the tank a "left - right" wave affect. I would also put a large seio or a tunze 6080 under the rock work to knock out any detrius.

Not a fan of the CL - I would use a Genx pcx 40 or 55 for the return

House

 

[masterswimmer]

Like house, I think your selection of pumps are undersized. However, it's very difficult to calculate head/friction loss when I don't know height, # of 90's or 45's and pipe type and diameter.

I however like the closed loop design as opposed to powerheads. I think they are much neater, easier to do maintenance and use up less real estate in the tank. It's super important to size your pump right though. I've seen soooo many people that design CL's and underestimate the amount of head loss so they don't get nearly the flow from the CL that they should.

I also like the OM on the CL. Use the other two drilled holes for your overflow/return.

Russ