- Location
- Long Island
Hey imbarrie, how should I make this manifold for the drains, fuge, return pump and reactors?
Help me build my new 150. Please.
- Thread starter Weicowireman
- Start date
- Location
- Long Island
I need to figure out the following:
What size hole to drill for the sump tank for the iwaki external pump?
What size pvc to use to plump the drains to the filter sock in the sump?
What size pvc to use to plumb my returns?
How to make a manifold for my tlfs reactors?
Your help as always is greatly apprecaited.
What size hole to drill for the sump tank for the iwaki external pump?
What size pvc to use to plump the drains to the filter sock in the sump?
What size pvc to use to plumb my returns?
How to make a manifold for my tlfs reactors?
Your help as always is greatly apprecaited.
The pump output will need to be split to accommodate the dual returns. The returns should be the same length or the longer one will not flow correctly.
If there is space in the stand behind and above the sump I would angle the return to the middle of the stand and split the return there securing the plumbing against the stand. Use a section of flexible tubing between the sump and the pump and between the pump and the returns to absorb vibration noise from the pump. The longer the flex the less vibration will be communicated through the plumbing.
You will want to use a bulkhead fitting on your sump. Make sure the ones provided work. Some of the ones that come with the tank are cheap. Aquarium Village sells them if you need.
You will need to match the plumbing from the display tank bulkhead fittings with the output of the split and match the input of the split with the output of the pump, probably 1." For space issues you may have to use a Tee but a Wye is more efficient in terms of flow.
http://www.hottubspasupplies.com/Hot-Tub-Parts/Fittings-Plumbing-PVC/Wyes
Also, instead of one 90deg fitting you can use two 45deg fittings more efficiently. I shorten the 45deg fittings by shortening the ends of two of them and connecting them.
If you want to use your main pump for your reactors then you will need to TEE off the return pump for that also. With this you will want to use a TEE with the straight line of the TEE going to your tank and the 90deg ported to your reactors. After the TEE you may need a valve to restrict flow to your DT enough to power your reactors. You will also need a valve before your reactors so you can isolate them for servicing.
Make sure all this plumbing is secure.
Plan out which side the return pump will be on to minimize the amount of plumbing and minimize the amount of space taken up. Looking at that pump I could see it working well with the return on the right side of the stand.
Your drain going to the sump should be pretty easy. The tank bulkheads fit into PVC which flows into the filter sock area. I would use a WYE here also so the water does not crash into itself.
If there is space in the stand behind and above the sump I would angle the return to the middle of the stand and split the return there securing the plumbing against the stand. Use a section of flexible tubing between the sump and the pump and between the pump and the returns to absorb vibration noise from the pump. The longer the flex the less vibration will be communicated through the plumbing.
You will want to use a bulkhead fitting on your sump. Make sure the ones provided work. Some of the ones that come with the tank are cheap. Aquarium Village sells them if you need.
You will need to match the plumbing from the display tank bulkhead fittings with the output of the split and match the input of the split with the output of the pump, probably 1." For space issues you may have to use a Tee but a Wye is more efficient in terms of flow.
http://www.hottubspasupplies.com/Hot-Tub-Parts/Fittings-Plumbing-PVC/Wyes
Also, instead of one 90deg fitting you can use two 45deg fittings more efficiently. I shorten the 45deg fittings by shortening the ends of two of them and connecting them.
If you want to use your main pump for your reactors then you will need to TEE off the return pump for that also. With this you will want to use a TEE with the straight line of the TEE going to your tank and the 90deg ported to your reactors. After the TEE you may need a valve to restrict flow to your DT enough to power your reactors. You will also need a valve before your reactors so you can isolate them for servicing.
Make sure all this plumbing is secure.
Plan out which side the return pump will be on to minimize the amount of plumbing and minimize the amount of space taken up. Looking at that pump I could see it working well with the return on the right side of the stand.
Your drain going to the sump should be pretty easy. The tank bulkheads fit into PVC which flows into the filter sock area. I would use a WYE here also so the water does not crash into itself.
- Location
- Long Island
Are you going to be around on Sunday? My buddy is a plumber and will help me with all of the plumbing but if I have some questions May I email you?
- Location
- Long Island
Whatcha guys think so far?
- Location
- Long Island
I made the center section one removeable panel with cabinet magnets to hold it in place. Picked my stain and polyurthane. Finally got to drill the stand to fit the bulk heads so this is moving along steadily. Next up plumbing and final touches to the stand and stain.
- Location
- New Jersey
Wow!!! Great job how much you spend on wood materials plus screws less then 500.00? Reason I ask is because I have spent about 500.00 to 750.00 on my wall stand.
- Location
- Long Island
Imbarrie I am beyond nervous with the plumbing. I didnt start yet. Im drilling the hole for the sump's bulk head today after work. I picked up brand new bulk heads all around for the tanks return and drains and sump.
I spent about $250-$350 on the stand. I saved money because I didnt buy molding. I used 1x4 pine that I am usig my router to 1/4 rounds on all of the inside edges.
I spent about $250-$350 on the stand. I saved money because I didnt buy molding. I used 1x4 pine that I am usig my router to 1/4 rounds on all of the inside edges.
Looks great you doing fine you don't need help ..
Do you have a picture of just the frame in stand .
.I have whole bunch of treated wood in my yard but don't know if safe to use .. Does anyone know???its left over from building decks in yard.
I have to make one and not good with wood. Everything else no problem. For me.
Doing a 30x 30 x 30 cube acrylic..that's 800 lbs of weight . I'm dead with wife if it floods..
Do you have a picture of just the frame in stand .
.I have whole bunch of treated wood in my yard but don't know if safe to use .. Does anyone know???its left over from building decks in yard.
I have to make one and not good with wood. Everything else no problem. For me.
Doing a 30x 30 x 30 cube acrylic..that's 800 lbs of weight . I'm dead with wife if it floods..
Treated lumber is for outdoors. That has been pressure cooked with poisons you dont want to have inside.
The best way to protect the stand from water damage lumber is with a high quality oil based primer and seal your stand. If you have a flood then chances are you have much bigger problems than hearing about it from your wife.
That said, I have had some pretty bad floods under my stand and it didnt affect anything in a rental. Now I own, I am more careful.
The best way to protect the stand from water damage lumber is with a high quality oil based primer and seal your stand. If you have a flood then chances are you have much bigger problems than hearing about it from your wife.
That said, I have had some pretty bad floods under my stand and it didnt affect anything in a rental. Now I own, I am more careful.
Your wrong hate to hear say I told you so about my tanks. Lol ..damage no sweat to me but to her oboy ..
But yes your right about wood I just had brand new wood left over.
I thought I could seal it but don't want to take chance with by babies (fish)...
Thanks
But yes your right about wood I just had brand new wood left over.
I thought I could seal it but don't want to take chance with by babies (fish)...
Thanks
- Location
- Long Island
My initial cost for the word was like $40-$60 for the Frame. I could have just painted the frame but the tank is in my living room so I had to have the bottom closed up or not on display. It certainly does me a nice sense of accomplishment. Can't wait to finish this up.
- Location
- Kings Park, NY
Unless prohibited by local codes there is no reason PT wood cannot be used indoors. Pressure-treated lumber can be used in any interior application except cutting boards and countertops. Almost all interior boards that will come in contact with concrete are or should be PT. There is no leaching or off-gassing with PT wood so that is not a concern. It is the inhalation off sawdust while cutting that is of greatest concern.
PT wood SHOULD NOT be used for a stand indoors as it is VERY susceptible to cracking/checking/warping and splitting from drying out indoors. None of which you want in a tank stand.
W,
NICE job on the stand. Nothing wrong with overbuilding in this case. Nice work so far. Love the sump! Jeff is a super nice guy and an acrylic craftsman.
- Location
- Long Island
Added rubber floor, water tested my sump. Plumbed my drains, finished the molding around the front and removable doors.
It may help to build a base under the sump so you can slide it out if you need to. Right now you have to pick it up over the bottom frame and you would need to remove most of the water to do that.
Check your skimmer height first.
Might save some time later.
Check your skimmer height first.
Might save some time later.
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