twan congrats man good luck. with the drain from what i did in the past i cut slits into the lower part of the drain and some of the pipe went into the water.
Accomplishments
So, got the new durso installed, drilled 3 small holes in the cap and that quieted the drain.
Replaced the mesh filter sock with a felt one and that cut down on the bubbles in the sump.
I am now able to open the drain 100% without sloshing. I am not able to open the return line full blast.
The WMX is setup and now controls my MP10's wireless switching between 4 different modes.
Hold
CAD sent out a new collection cup for the skimmer and it should be here this week so I can bring that on line.
Needs work
The water level in the overflow box is 3-4 inches lower then the display height. This causes too much noise for my liking.
I would like to cut this distance in 1/2.
I have adjusted things countless times to get a higher water level in there to no progress.
The only way I have gotten progress was to cut the drain which I do not want to do or dial back the return that leaves me with lower display height and only a trickle pumping back into the tank as a result.
Would it stand to reason that if I upgraded from the 1260 to the 1262
that my problem would go away because my return would pump
more up thereby making my overflow box water height larger? Or do I need to dial back my current return?
for you to make your overflow box higher is to make the overflow pipe taller to where you want the water level to be. i think thats your only way to fix this problem.
take a pic of where the water level is and of the pipe inside the overflow chamber
@ Tonyscoots84: I cannot raise the durso any higher as it would stick up above the overflow wall and not allow me to run my screen top to keep jumpers in.
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Dialing back the return lowers the water height in the display and quiets the overflow box but the water height in the overflow box does not change. It just is not as loud because the water flowing over the teeth is not with much force so it only runs down the inside of the box and not gushing over.
For now I resigned to the fact that I needed to dial back my drain a tad. I was not able to get the proper adjustment I wanted out of a ball valve so I added a gate valve to the drain line as well. Excuse the crappy picture.
To help me feel more secure against snails entering and plugging up my drain I added a strainer fitting onto the durso. The strainer is 10 inches long (8 inch of strainer slots).
So, in closing, upgrading to the 1262 wont help? I am thinking it wont because my drain would still keep up with the 1262. The 1262 may not help for an additional reason. Connected to my 1260 and all the way to the bulkhead is 3/4" sch80. Then I have to run a reducer down to 1/2" because that is what my return line hole was drilled for. I am seeking advice on this one last time while I keep an eye on my dialed back drain to gauge my comfort level.
If I add more water to the top display water level and the overflow box water level will raise only for a few seconds until the drain sucks it down and I am right back to the same level. I would rather a dialed back 1262 pump and an open drain then a wide open 1260 and a dialed back drain. I hear only 1 piece seperates a 1260 from a 1262. Changing the volute on the 1260 to P/N 7443670 from the 1262 costs $9.60 and would accomplish this task.
Looks like I can try this out without permanantly modifying the pump allowing me to revert to the stock 1260 if this does not work. But is more flow up going to solve my problem?
Even if it would................is the 3/4" to 1/2" reduction at the bulkhead still my bottleneck?
Pumps & plumbing aside there has been a slight diatom bloom on the rocks and glass but none on the sand.
The CuC I added last week from Reefcleaners has put a dent in it already. There was actually 2 small spots (dime size) of long hair algea that began to develop as well. For reference I am running a full ramp up and ramp down cycle on my lights peaking each of the 3 colors somewhere around 55%. This will be adjusted once corals go in.
Speaking of corals........................arriving tomorrow 5/3/12:
Divers Den ORA? Green Capricornis, Qty:1
Divers Den ORA? Red/Orange Capricornis, Qty:1
Divers Den ORA? Purple Hammer Coral, Qty:1
Divers Den Torch Coral , Qty:1
Divers Den Branching Acropora Coral Bali, Qty:1
Diver's Den Safecracker Colony Polyp Rock Zoanthus Indonesia IM, Qty:1
Going to dip everything in Coral RX pro for 5-7 minutes (with a gallon of SW from my tank) then a fresh SW rinse then into the tank.
Will post a FTS once everything opens probably this Friday 5/4/12.
I am itching to add a fish next week. Wondering what from my list to add 1st.
I guess temper wise it would be the Yashia Haze / Pistol pair leaving me with adds in this order?
I have fern looking green hair algae growing in the last 2 day.
Small single strands in many places on rocks only not on glass or sand.
Nitrate 5
Phosphate .09
Is this Bryopsis that needs manual removal?
Is this just the type of algae I ended up with as part of new tank syndrome and will go away?
How do I combat this?
hermit crabs? they can clime the rocks, just don't get the blue ones, they are kinda aggressive, the red scarlet hermit is less aggressive. Turbo snails works great too but they might clime out of your tank since its rimless.